Just built my first amp with tremendous help from these forums - thank you all..
I am loving the sound and clarity of this wonderful little amp. The KIT from Peter @ Audio Sector is ace, quality components and ace sound.
So, now that I have taken the "RED PILL" of chipamps. Whats the next stage in this chip amp "rabbit hole"? I do not need a lot of power (mostly listen at around 80dB max on 90dB sensitive speakers). Is there any other chip that is "better" in sound quality? (mind you, the LM3875 is already great)..
I am loving the sound and clarity of this wonderful little amp. The KIT from Peter @ Audio Sector is ace, quality components and ace sound.
So, now that I have taken the "RED PILL" of chipamps. Whats the next stage in this chip amp "rabbit hole"? I do not need a lot of power (mostly listen at around 80dB max on 90dB sensitive speakers). Is there any other chip that is "better" in sound quality? (mind you, the LM3875 is already great)..
In my experience, TDA8566 can sound better than LM38xx, provided the power supply is up to snuff (enough caps) and the layout's not messed up. The input's differential and there's a separate signal ground from power ground. Also it's bridged meaning easier to get an optimal grounding scheme. As you don't need more than a few watts, it'll suit you fine.
The Peter Daniel chipamp PSU boards are all ready made for it --
Although not visible in this photo, there are holes for 10mm lead 'snap-in' caps. I don't know exactly what the max diameter of the caps can be, but it's large, perhaps 30-35mm
I am UK, 240v..
here are some pics of the kit I am working with:
here are some pics of the kit I am working with:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Use these. You may need to increase the size of your mains fuse if the inrush is popping it. Or use a time-delay (Slow-Blow) fuse.
ECOS1VA103CA - PANASONIC - CAP, ALU ELEC, 10000UF, 35V, SNAP | Farnell UK
As for what to do next, I suggest a discrete design, Aleph J, F5, BA-3, Etc... there is no 'better' sounding chipamp, they all have a very distinct character that is the chip, and essentially nothing you can do to it will ever make it sound like anything else than a chipamp. (Which isn't bad at all, just that they sound like what they are.) Any of the Pass/Firstwatt amps are only one level higher on the difficulty scale, and with a successful chipamp under your belt, you have enough understanding to be successful with a more complex build. Look at any (or all) of the guides in my signature for more info.
ECOS1VA103CA - PANASONIC - CAP, ALU ELEC, 10000UF, 35V, SNAP | Farnell UK
As for what to do next, I suggest a discrete design, Aleph J, F5, BA-3, Etc... there is no 'better' sounding chipamp, they all have a very distinct character that is the chip, and essentially nothing you can do to it will ever make it sound like anything else than a chipamp. (Which isn't bad at all, just that they sound like what they are.) Any of the Pass/Firstwatt amps are only one level higher on the difficulty scale, and with a successful chipamp under your belt, you have enough understanding to be successful with a more complex build. Look at any (or all) of the guides in my signature for more info.
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I respectfully, but strongly disagree. I invite you to build a BA-3 or Aleph J. You will change your mind.
I respectfully, but strongly disagree. I invite you to build a BA-3 or Aleph J. You will change your mind.
Hi, Poor wording, I meant it in the sense of other chip amps, rgds, sreten.
Which you might infer that is what I meant by the next paragraph,
but clearly my intended meaning doesn't come across well at all.
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thank you 6L6, i ordered those Panasonic caps. Would I need to rework anything on the AudioSector boards? Are there any other caps or resistors required? Here is what my current amps and rectifier looks like:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
apparently the 10uF caps are only optional and no longer supplied by default when you order the kit from AudioSector..
quote from page 4 of this guide
"The power supply section consists of 8 diodes per channel (we are discussing dual mono kit
for now) and optional two small capacitors (10uF) which you may use, but they are not
really required."
quote from page 4 of this guide
"The power supply section consists of 8 diodes per channel (we are discussing dual mono kit
for now) and optional two small capacitors (10uF) which you may use, but they are not
really required."
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