I'm looking for a good quality single or two channel IC (single channel IC may be better suited) that can run on a +/-25 to +/-30v supply. Minimal external components would be ideal.
I'd be fine with a pre-built ebay board if someone knows a good one.
I have a nice toroid transformer to use on a project and need a small amp for my computer to power some bookshelf speakers.
TDA2050? LM3886? others?
I'd be fine with a pre-built ebay board if someone knows a good one.
I have a nice toroid transformer to use on a project and need a small amp for my computer to power some bookshelf speakers.
TDA2050? LM3886? others?
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you shouldn't use an LM1875 or TDA2050 at +/-25V rails if your speakers average impedance is rated at 6ohms - as the speakers actual impedance can drop to 4ohms. This would draw much more current than each of these little chips can deliver at this voltage.
I would recommend you use an LM3886 or LM3875. These chips will happily drive your speakers at the voltages you quoted.
I would recommend you use an LM3886 or LM3875. These chips will happily drive your speakers at the voltages you quoted.
I had good luck with the LM3886. With +/- 32 volt rails, I got about 50 watts rms into 8 ohms. They sound great to my ear. It doesn't get much easier, and there are a bunch of circuits and boards you can buy on the web. Linkwitz uses the 3886 in his Pluto biamp'd speaker system, and his circuits are on his website.
I went with a TDA7294. I'm going to try it out and see how I like it. If I don't I'll try the LM3886.
Here's the DS on it. http://www.st.com/st-web-ui/static/active/en/resource/technical/document/datasheet/CD00000017.pdf
Here's the DS on it. http://www.st.com/st-web-ui/static/active/en/resource/technical/document/datasheet/CD00000017.pdf
The mute function on the 3886 means there's no turn-on transient. I like that a lot. Also, a chipamp will have tighter coupling between the output devices and the temp sensing circuit, so reliability and minimization of crossover distortion is likely better than with a discrete design. I'm not saying chipamps are necessarily better than any discrete design, just that I wouldn't rule them out.
The mute function on the 3886 means there's no turn-on transient. I like that a lot. Also, a chipamp will have tighter coupling between the output devices and the temp sensing circuit, so reliability and minimization of crossover distortion is likely better than with a discrete design. I'm not saying chipamps are necessarily better than any discrete design, just that I wouldn't rule them out.
The TDA7294 also has a mute function, it appears that you can use it in a similar way to the LM3886 mute pin.
lazzer408 will you be buying a kit or designing your own circuit?
The TDA7294 also has a mute function, it appears that you can use it in a similar way to the LM3886 mute pin.
lazzer408 will you be buying a kit or designing your own circuit?
Ok long story short...
I'm going to (eventually) be building a 6BQ5 4ch amplifier for my car. I'm in the testing stage trying various PI designs on a home chassis and a friend ordered some Edcor 4-ohm UL OPTs to try as well. In the mean time, I need an amp that's quick and easy and started looking into the chip amps. I had a few chip-amp boards laying around, that were pulled from various computer speakers, and one of them was used in a subwoofer and had a dual-rail supply. I gutted the low-pass section from it and gave it a listen. I was quite pleased with how it sounded. It blew away (in quality) this Technics receiver I use often for testing. Not that that's saying much. The chip amp sounded more like my tube amp then some of these other discrete output receivers I have.
So... I ordered a stereo chip amp off Ebay that uses a pair of TDA7294 for each channel. I let the power rating get to me again. If anything I'll get 4 chips off it.
Seems like there's a lot of people who like the LM3886. Is it really good compared to other ICs?
a 3886 won't work in a car.
The car battery and it's charging system give a voltage that varies from ~11.5V to 13.8Vdc
The 3886 will not work with less than 20Vdc.
The maximum output from any amplifier is ~ 1/3rd of the DC supply voltage.
@ 13.8Vdc the maximum output is ~4.6Vac
This gives ~5W into a 4ohm speaker.
The car battery and it's charging system give a voltage that varies from ~11.5V to 13.8Vdc
The 3886 will not work with less than 20Vdc.
The maximum output from any amplifier is ~ 1/3rd of the DC supply voltage.
@ 13.8Vdc the maximum output is ~4.6Vac
This gives ~5W into a 4ohm speaker.
I know. I plan on using a dual-rail SMPS. I'd like to see around 40~50w per channel. Looks like four of the 3886 would do it.
Even a convertor like this would work. One per channel.
DC DC 150W Boost Converter 6A 10 32V to 12 35V Step Up Voltage Power Supply | eBay
Or this one.
DC12V to Dual 32V Boost Power Supply Board for HiFi Amplifier Car Amp 350W | eBay
Even a convertor like this would work. One per channel.
DC DC 150W Boost Converter 6A 10 32V to 12 35V Step Up Voltage Power Supply | eBay
Or this one.
DC12V to Dual 32V Boost Power Supply Board for HiFi Amplifier Car Amp 350W | eBay
TI really needs to pull their heads out of their butts and stick with a rating system that's consistent.
What's the difference between the LM3876 and LM3886?
According to them...
LM3876 "56w into 8ohm 0.1% THD" (voltages unclear. +/-35v?)
LM3886 "50w into 8ohm" (THD unstated) (+/- 35v?) -or- "68w into 8ohm 0.1% THD" (voltage not stated) -also says- "extremely low THD+N of 0.03% at the rated output" -also says- "38w into 8ohm 0.1 THD"
What are the real specs of these things?
What's the difference between the LM3876 and LM3886?
According to them...
LM3876 "56w into 8ohm 0.1% THD" (voltages unclear. +/-35v?)
LM3886 "50w into 8ohm" (THD unstated) (+/- 35v?) -or- "68w into 8ohm 0.1% THD" (voltage not stated) -also says- "extremely low THD+N of 0.03% at the rated output" -also says- "38w into 8ohm 0.1 THD"
What are the real specs of these things?
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Dear, whi ic amps?
Size and simplicity mainly. There's nothing wrong with them.
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Many will not agree with you.................. There's nothing wrong with them.
Many will not agree with you.
Even myself. That's why I have a few tube amps. The chip amp is "good enough" for some PC speakers I built. It'll mount on the back of one.
Jeff Rowlands, 47 Labs:
These manufacturers use chipamp design and charge thousands. AndrewT are you not a True Believer? I made an inverted LM3875 Gainclone about 8 years ago. It sounds better than anything I have ever bought factory made.
Chipamps are more than 'good enough'.
These manufacturers use chipamp design and charge thousands. AndrewT are you not a True Believer? I made an inverted LM3875 Gainclone about 8 years ago. It sounds better than anything I have ever bought factory made.
Chipamps are more than 'good enough'.
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I don't understand the question............... are you not a True Believer? ................
-I don't understand the question. - AndrewT
I would have thought my capitalization of the words True Believer would have at the very least piqued your curiosity as to what it meant. Link below. I thought this term was pretty much part of the common lexicon, guess not. It implies 'cult' which the gainclone amp movement almost is. I admit it. My audiophile friends ALSO find fault with my GC chip amp. Their loss as far as I am concerned. If you are a skeptic then why are you on this forum? This is for cult members only.
The True Believer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
I would have thought my capitalization of the words True Believer would have at the very least piqued your curiosity as to what it meant. Link below. I thought this term was pretty much part of the common lexicon, guess not. It implies 'cult' which the gainclone amp movement almost is. I admit it. My audiophile friends ALSO find fault with my GC chip amp. Their loss as far as I am concerned. If you are a skeptic then why are you on this forum? This is for cult members only.
The True Believer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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