You could look for "The Wire" power amp. Also search for threads with "My Ref" in the title. For those, you would probably have to buy the PCBs, at least.
If you want to do it all on your own, I would suggest using the topology of the schematic in the datasheet, and don't leave out any of the "optional components, but maybe increase certain cap values per some of the threads, here, and use a hefty power supply, plus decoupling caps near the chips. And read about star grounding.
If you want to do it all on your own, I would suggest using the topology of the schematic in the datasheet, and don't leave out any of the "optional components, but maybe increase certain cap values per some of the threads, here, and use a hefty power supply, plus decoupling caps near the chips. And read about star grounding.
actualy computer supply is a decent idea, but requires some external circuitry to function properly.
pc powersupplys tend to do a voltage overshoot when turning on, witch does goes well over 18V, witch is the limit for the mentioned chips (TDA 1557 and TDA 8560).
so a dummy load (a ressitor, wow..) and a delayed-relay (cap, resistor, transistor) are needed to only provide the voltage a half-secund after the pc powersupply did switch on. by then the supply will stabilise, and will work just perfectly.
pc powersupplys tend to do a voltage overshoot when turning on, witch does goes well over 18V, witch is the limit for the mentioned chips (TDA 1557 and TDA 8560).
so a dummy load (a ressitor, wow..) and a delayed-relay (cap, resistor, transistor) are needed to only provide the voltage a half-secund after the pc powersupply did switch on. by then the supply will stabilise, and will work just perfectly.
Anything that can provide the needed voltage and current "can" be used. But a computer power supply might be problematic. I'm not sure about the newest types but the older ones often did not have symmetric current capabilities, for the positive and negative voltages, such that the positive one might be able to provide many amps of current but the corresponding negative one could not.
You will always need to calculate the minimum reservoir capacitance, based on the rail voltage, the rated maximum output power, and the load impedance. You can use the spreadsheet at the following link:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/powe...evoir-capacitors-chip-amps-3.html#post3627654
You will always need to calculate the minimum reservoir capacitance, based on the rail voltage, the rated maximum output power, and the load impedance. You can use the spreadsheet at the following link:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/powe...evoir-capacitors-chip-amps-3.html#post3627654
I recommend to build amplifier attached below. It is simple, classic and very close, I mean the sound reproduction, of class A. It also has soft start and output short circuit protection.
It is a good project for a beginner.
CH1- intput, CH2 - output.
It is a good project for a beginner.
CH1- intput, CH2 - output.
Attachments
how can you say this without knowing the speakers and listening prefrences of the builder????
for all you know, he like to take it up to 110db peak and have 84db1W/1m speakers.
Possibly a bit too complicated for a beginner.
Try searching for the Hiraga Monster.
There are some good examples of home built hi-fi here --- Homebuilt Hi-Fi - A user submitted image showcase of high quality home built hi-fi components.
And there's more good reading at --- The Class-A Amplifier Site
Try searching for the Hiraga Monster.
There are some good examples of home built hi-fi here --- Homebuilt Hi-Fi - A user submitted image showcase of high quality home built hi-fi components.
And there's more good reading at --- The Class-A Amplifier Site
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its a BTL chip, and can andle 4 ohm too.
actualy i do use one like that with 8 ohm rated speakers and ts mooooar than loud at roughly half turn of the volume pot.
the speakers are 86 dBL @ 1m .
most probably i think it will be a first amplifier project, this one is quite well fitting as its a very simple one. and the costs are verry low. powersuply is allso easy to make from ATX computer supply.
I do not see a problem with it.
Actualy i would see no point in attempting to build a more complicated amplifier and fail with it.
at least if i my self would be building one for the first time.
thisone is very easy, and there is a quite big chanse it will deliver enough juice.
sure, 4 ohm rated speakers would be more welcome.
actualy i do use one like that with 8 ohm rated speakers and ts mooooar than loud at roughly half turn of the volume pot.
the speakers are 86 dBL @ 1m .
most probably i think it will be a first amplifier project, this one is quite well fitting as its a very simple one. and the costs are verry low. powersuply is allso easy to make from ATX computer supply.
I do not see a problem with it.
Actualy i would see no point in attempting to build a more complicated amplifier and fail with it.
at least if i my self would be building one for the first time.
thisone is very easy, and there is a quite big chanse it will deliver enough juice.
sure, 4 ohm rated speakers would be more welcome.
If your looking for simple and easy amplifier then, try TDA1519 B,C,CTH
Ido go for CTH but C is just fine, i just like SMD parts, ALOT less drilling
The amp itself sounded fairly smooth and had around 5W of reasonable sounding power.
Well, Id use 2 chips in mono, no output capacitor+ more power at 4 ohms
They run cold with small heatsink!
But you may need SMPS like compure power supply, mains noise is easy to come, very sensitive inputs
Ido go for CTH but C is just fine, i just like SMD parts, ALOT less drilling
The amp itself sounded fairly smooth and had around 5W of reasonable sounding power.
Well, Id use 2 chips in mono, no output capacitor+ more power at 4 ohms
They run cold with small heatsink!
But you may need SMPS like compure power supply, mains noise is easy to come, very sensitive inputs
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