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Old 26th March 2013, 04:37 PM   #31
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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Good!!!

By the way, I had suggested Velleman among many other possibilities (most in USA or EBay) to make you easy and cheap to get the kits, within Europe and paying in Euros, local postage.

Just in case I contacted Vellemen Europe, asking for an Italian Distributor.
I guess now it's too late, but for any future doubt (yours or from any Italian DIY), this is their answer, which just arrived:

Quote:
Buongiorno,
siamo stati contattati da nostro fornitore Velleman in qualitą di loro distributori per l'Italia.
Per qualsiasi informazione su prodotti, disponibilitą e prezzi potete consultare il nostro sito internet Futura Elettronica srl - Home Page oppure contattarci telefonicamente

cordiali saluti
--

Clara Landonio
Futura Elettronica srl
Via Adige 11, 21013 Gallarate (VA)
Tel: 0331799775 (4 linee R.A.)
Fax: 0331792287
Cod. Fisc. / P.Iva: 10918280156
Reg. Imp. di VA n. 10918280156
Capitale Sociale: Euro 60.000,00 I.V.
Internet: Futura Elettronica-Home Page
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Old 26th March 2013, 04:46 PM   #32
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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Just checked: the original Velleman kit, with PCB and everything else, costs only 21 Euro in Italy.
Less than what you spent without PCB

FUTURA ELETTRONICA SCHEDA TECNICA - K8060
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Old 26th March 2013, 04:46 PM   #33
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Thank you for the tip, by the way, yes it's late Today I re-create the design of the pcb starting from the one I made yesterday, the result is a circuit 10cm large and 6,5 cm high. Not bad, I think I can even make it larger and shorter. Now it fit almost perfectly onto the heatsink.

EDIT:
GRRR 21... not bad, add few shipping euros, maybe it cost about 28/30€... I paid it around 35 with protoboard. Still not bad

Please help me to justify my shopping ahah.

Last edited by gianmarco; 26th March 2013 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 27th March 2013, 05:08 PM   #34
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hello everyone, this is the last version of the PCB, can you please tell me your opinion about it? each hole is 1,27mm from the next one. No values nor name inserted due to time issues. I'm worried about the lines on the right that go to the second transistor and the little bc547 in the heatsink.

Click the image to open in full size.

EDIT: bigger image

EDIT2: There is a track missing, the - pole of the first big capacitor on the left. No worry, I simply forget.

Last edited by gianmarco; 27th March 2013 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 27th March 2013, 08:29 PM   #35
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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1) Didn't check connectivity, way too time and brain consuming.
Plus you can do it better by using the "highlight net" command, net by net.
After you have rechecked it a couple times, forget it, go to sleep/visit your girlfriend/watch Lazio Vs Milan/whatever.
Next day recheck it, with a fresh mind.
Small errors often "hide in plain sight".

2) basically looks good, but go over it again and *thicken* (a lot) important current carrying tracks, add copper where it's useful, etc.
Did you design a 2 layer PCB?
Try to reduce "top" tracks to minimum and then replace last unavoidable few with wire links, much easier to home make.

Just as an example, here's one of mine, you'll see that I used thicker tracks and added rectangular fills (you can add polygons), this is a 2x15W TDA2030 amplifier and single rail PSU :
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Old 28th March 2013, 12:38 AM   #36
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1) Actually I did use (if I understand what you mean) the highlight net, the component are all aligned with the holes in the protoboard. Tomorrow I will recheck it and also improve, because I removed the huge main diodes and bought a smaller (only in dimensions, current and voltage are the same) diode bridge. This reduce the tracks between diodes that don't need to be thickened and leave more space to thick the other.

2) I have few unavoidable top tracks to jump over some lines, with the new diode bridge I will remove 2 of them, reaching the total of 3 Top tracks (or jumper if you want).

I can see your example that is very good, remember that I will not use custom made pcb, I will use a stripboard pre-drilled with thousand of holes.

Do you think a 1mm large, solid tin track (due to long drops of tin over more pcb holes) is enough?
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Old 28th March 2013, 01:45 AM   #37
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gianmarco View Post
1) Actually I did use (if I understand what you mean) the highlight net, the component are all aligned with the holes in the protoboard.
Good. I was just reminding you of that tool to ease checking connectivity.
Now I understand you will not etch a PCB but use something similar to Veroboard ("Protoboard" normally means the plastic, solderless, push-in experimenter's board).

Quote:
2) I have few unavoidable top tracks to jump over some lines
Yes, of course, a few jumpers are almost unavoidable.
I thought you were going to home make and etch a 2 layer PCB.
Not impossible, of course, but requires practice.

Quote:
Do you think a 1mm large, solid tin track (due to long drops of tin over more pcb holes) is enough?
1mm is fine for most but not all, and it has those copper-robbing holes, but you can pull a single strand or "whisker" from regular cable and use it to reinforce the track.
It holds lots more tin, thanks to capillarity, and bridges the holes.
Not necessary everywhere but on the higher current tracks.
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Old 28th March 2013, 10:41 AM   #38
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Ok, thanks for the advice.

by the way, I figure out that I don't know what "highlight net" is, what kind of program do you use to draw the PCB? i use FidoCadJ
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Old 28th March 2013, 11:20 AM   #39
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I am also wondering if I can add this circuit to my amp:
Balanced Line Driver & Receiver

The receiver obviously.

I can find some space on the pcb by using the diode bridge instead the single diodes, and there put the OpAmp... the only problem can be the +-15V voltage to pilot the IC...
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Old 28th March 2013, 01:18 PM   #40
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gianmarco View Post
Ok, thanks for the advice.

by the way, I figure out that I don't know what "highlight net" is, what kind of program do you use to draw the PCB? i use FidoCadJ
I checked FidoCad.
Looks nice, but it's a standard general purpose CAD package, which has some electronics symbols , the same way most have architectural symbols, but it's not a dedicated PCB package.
In fact, they claim: There is no netlist concept behind the drawings

Highlight net is a useful tool: you click on any part pin and *everything* connected to it, including tracks, becomes bright fluo green.
Helps a lot to avoid forgetting some connection.
But if you don't have it, just check twice (or more )

As of the balanced line driver, I wouldn't worry.
We are in the Music Instrument World, not the Ultra Fi one.
Any mixer or keyboard out can drive dozens of meters of shielded audio cable with no problems.
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