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 TDA2030A single-supply high-power amplifier
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 Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits

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 1st April 2013, 09:41 AM #11 diyAudio Member     Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Buenos Aires - Argentina OK: C1/C2/C4/C6/C7 are electrolytics. You have +24V supply, so buying them to stand 25V is fine, although somewhat tight. To play it safe, you might buy C4 to stand next higher, usually 40 or 50V . C3/C5 are ceramics, usually rated 50V Rather than the parts, I guess your main problem may be the PCB, how will you solve that? Also: what PSU will you use? Good luck.
 1st April 2013, 11:55 AM #12 diyAudio Member   Join Date: May 2011 Thanks man for the info can u also say being that this has a single volt input just a positive and a ground no negative input can this be powered by dc like in a truck which has 24v dc also just wondering what might be the minimum voltage this can be operated by Also if can be operated by dc can i use a supply of 15vdc to get this amp to work
 2nd April 2013, 05:31 AM #13 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Indiana Blog Entries: 1 The "absolute maximum" supply voltage(s) are either +/- 22V or +44V. It looks like this chip outputs less distortion when using 4 Ohm speakers, as compared to 8 Ohm speakers, according to the datasheet. But I could be wrong about that. A single +24V supply with one TDA2030A would give about 6 Watts into 8 Ohms or 10 Watts into 4 Ohms. You could get a switchmode power supply that would convert your 24_0 volt pair into, say, 36_0. Then you could get about 14.5 Watts into 8 Ohms or 22 Watts into 4 Ohms. Or get one that converts 24V to 48 V and then use a three-terminal linear regulator chip to regulate it down to 44V or slightly less. It looks like somewhat-reasonable distortion performance at higher power occurs if you use a 39 V supply and only run at up to about 35 Watts output power (into 4 Ohms). You really do need to get the datasheet. The one at the ST microelectronics website has circuit layouts and component value recommendations, etc etc. The datasheet also shows a bridged circuit, using two chips, i.e. one 2030A to drive each side of a speaker, which can give 34 Watts with 8 Ohms, from +/-16V supplies, for example. http://www.st.com/web/catalog/sense_.../SC979/PF65116 . Last edited by gootee; 2nd April 2013 at 05:45 AM.
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by radioFlash Here's another revision based on gootee's comments. Changes include: * Separated signal and power/speaker ground * Added C9 and C10 to pin 5 of chipamp * Moved C3 closer to Q1 emitter pin * Made the board size a bit smaller (now 1.7 x 4 inches) * Removed on board connector pads for input--input will now need to come in through a header or air wires * The cross hatch pour is unconnected Vs is shown jumpered to R1 on the board, but it could be provided by a separate wire from the power supply. The unfortunate thing about this layout is the jumper between the collectors of Q1 and Q2. I couldn't come up with a better way to connect them. Is this an overall improvement in the layout? I also found that the output capacitor C8 and input capacitor C1 are causing the rolloff in the low frequency response. Replacing C8 with a 4700 uF capacitor and C1 with 1 uf capacitor reduce the rolloff.
Haven't looked in detail at the rest of it, yet, but C9 and C10 should connect to GND, not SGND.

Also, I would either connect the cross-hatch to ground (or something) or remove it.

I'm not sure how your SGND should be. There will be two signal wires coming in from the source device. One will be SGND. But then you need another wire connection in order to also take SGND to the star ground point (probably at the power supply output ground), which should be separate from the wire that connects GND (the power ground) to the star ground point. So you either need two SGND connections on the board, or, you need to use the one connection for both SGND wires, or you could splice the two SGND wires just before they reach the board.

Usually, when you have nice wide traces for power, like you do for V+ (Vs), you need to force the current to go near the capacitor pin. For example, for your C5, you would put two slits in the Vs trace, from the edge of the trace past one edge of the Vs pad to near one edge of the + pad for C5, and then the same thing for the other side of the Vs and + pads, so that the current coming into the Vs pad would have to go near the + pad of C5 before it went to the rest of the board.

Last edited by gootee; 29th April 2013 at 05:14 AM.

 30th April 2013, 01:51 AM #15 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Nov 2012 gootee, Thanks again for the suggestions. I hadn't thought about the SGND connection or about dealing with wide traces near capacitors.
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Quote:
 TDA2030A single-supply high-power amplifier
Quote:
 Originally Posted by radioFlash I built the single-supply high-power amplifier from the ST datasheet for the TDA2030A............. I've tested it with a 4.5 ohm load and a 31 V DC input voltage. It swings about 26V peak-peak with this power supply before clipping. Sound wise, it seems fine.......
that's less than 19W into 4r5 ! "high-power" ????
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by AndrewT that's less than 19W into 4r5 ! "high-power" ????
Andrew, that's *nothing*
After all, "high" without putting numbers in it can be anything, it's just personal opinion
In *this* thread TDA7294 + Power Transistors AMP (TDA7293 to come also) numbers are mentioned
Quote:
 Output Power: well lets just say that speakers that where 250/500W 2Ohm (RMS/MAX) where played to the max with NO DISTORTION AT ALL I will call the output at 400W+ (MAX) and this is based on that the TDA itself adds ONLY 20-40W (because of the much higher driving Ohm), but the 5200/1943 are some GOOD POWERFULL transistors and going through the datasheet it will deliver peeks over 600W (short pulse pr Transistor), they supply 100W but this is FULL DC and there are no audio tracks to my knowledge that has that kind of "sound"
(sic)

A very similar schematic, just with a TDA7294 and an *unbiased* "5200/1943" pair ..... still with +/*-40V supply of course
How can this miracle happen?
Well, he's using "GOOD POWERFULL transistors" after all

Crossover distortion is so high, that he notices a "jump" in music volume, whether he's below or above the knee:
Quote:
 Things to do when SYNC it is to listen to it, things to listen to are from very low volume (FROM a clean source) and go slowely up in volume, the POINT here is that it should just get louder like a normal amplifier would, if the SYNC is off then a normal thing will be that at audio peaks (like drums & bass) it will sound like someone is kicking your speakers because the Transistors kick in at a wrong volume then the amp is playing, believe me you will hear it, this needs to be corrected by changing the resistor else you will have an amp that only sounds good at very low volume and medium to high volume.
No kidding !!!!
Ever heard the words "bias"? and "crossover distortion"?

I won't even mention the "schematic" that was posted.
Or the "400W amp" housed in a PC PSU case.

Problem is, instead of having knowledgeable people jumping in to suggets corrections, ther's a ton of DIY noobs very excited trying to build that modern wonder.
Oh well.

 30th April 2013, 05:12 PM #18 diyAudio Member   Join Date: May 2011 Noobs are like hungry watts mungers as long as the words easy , simple , cheap are used together with high *00 watts they go mad so do i as i am a noob well can the experts post a correct working pcb so we noobz can do it right i also have interest in that tda 7294 Plus transistors amp so who will the noobz listen to here the guy with a working amp or ppl who just saying it can't work how about the experts jump in and correct it so us noobz can build working items and not waste money and time an losing interest
 30th April 2013, 08:26 PM #19 diyAudio Member     Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Buenos Aires - Argentina This is a killer one. QUASI Amplifier for Beginners Can be built from 500W which is power you never had nor have speakers to stand it, down to 60W which is recommended as a first time high power amp build. Once it works properly, you'll be able to build the big one. It's a beast normally used as live PA for Rock Festivals or *big* Club DJ; as I said before with speakers able to stand 500W RMS continuously. Noobs despise or ignore it because of the "beginner" label , but it's not beginner stuff at all. Tried and true for many years, the designer built and installed around 60 (or was it 100?) of them and they still work flawlessly. Once you have successfully built and *used* the 500W one, you can continue to 500W PA amplifier with Limiter and after that to 900W H-class PA Amp with Limiter if you wish. But please don't skip steps; each one teaches , say, 50% of what's needed for the next. Imagine Japanese or Piano classes, you can't *start* by lesson #48 or whatever Good luck, you'll succeed
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Yes, "High Power" is a relative term. I used the term in the datasheet in case anyone was searching for an implementation of this circuit. I did the original tests using a 31V power supply. I did some tests with a 42V power supply, which is near the 44V maximum in the datasheet.

With that, I get a voltage swing of 34.8V before clipping into a 4.5 ohm load, which is about 34 watts.

Below is what the datasheet lists:
35W d = 0.5%, RL = 4 Ω, f = 40 z to 15 Hz Vs = 39 V

Attached are some oscilloscope traces right before clipping. The yellow is the source signal and the cyan is the output.
Attached Images
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