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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Quote:
But you are proposing that from the switch, I should "branch" out directly from the switch contacts? Also, I do not have a metal chassis, so I guess I'll just connect signal shield to the third prong on the IEC inlet? I can do that pretty easily. However, this shield should not be attached to signal ground...at all? --- I also have two potentiometers that I want to hook up using twisted-quad (that has a shield). This should should also get connected to "chassis" ground? |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fosser, Aurskog-Holand, Akershus, Norway.
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One simple rule is this:
Always connect the shielding at the end wich have the highest impoedance. (At the input of every board) This ends up in to solder the shielding near the input of the amp-board. If there is separated signal and power earth on the board, it will need one lead from the earth at the signal input down to the powersupply ground. And another lead from the power-ground on the board down to the same point on the powersupply. Additional lead fron the ground of the input connectors, and from speaker ground bindingpost. All in a "star" to the point at the powersupply. Any signal (line-level) wich arte to go out of an amp, should have the shielding solderet at the output connector with a groundlead down to the power supply. This signal cable should NOT have its shielding soldered to the board, but left insulated. This way I have buildt hiss and humfree amplifiers for quite an amount of years now. Oh yeah, even in unshielded cases. I ALWAYS keeps PE (The power inlet ground) separated from signal ground. If this has to be connected anywhere, I would recommend to connect that to the chassis, and then have a 10M resistor in paralell with a 1uF 630V capacitor to the signal ground (Internal power supply ground. Then I would have a switch between the CAP and PE to separate chassisground from signal ground just for the giggles. In some areas it seems as a good idea to have AC coupling between PE and signal ground.
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Sooner or later you end up with TANDBERG Last edited by TANDBERGEREN; 5th February 2013 at 10:16 PM. |
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Quote:
Just still confused where and to what the shielding should be connected. Here are some notes about my amp: -Signal and power ground are shared -Wooden chassis. I do have PE connected to the amp ground (isolated by a CL-60 inrush current limiter). This was a suggestion by another diyaudio member a while back. - Signal comes from RCA jacks, goes through a switch (which can switch between headphone out or power amp out). If power amp out is chosen, three things need signal. Left channel, right channel, and subwoofer. I have twisted pair shielded cable. Mogami is the brand. Where should the shield be connected and to what? To the protective earth? To signal ground? I also have two potentiometers that are connected with long cable runs. I was kind of forced to do it this way because I made some other silly design decisions. I also have quad (four wire) shielded Mogami wire. I was planning on using 3 conductors for each potentiometer. However, I wouldn't be sure where to attach that shield either? Thank you. I really appreciate the help. Last edited by FenderBender11; 5th February 2013 at 10:34 PM. |
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#14 | |||
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diyAudio Member
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Well your drawing did not show shielded twisted pair! It shows coax, like RCA cable! And it shows the shield as connected to audio signal ground!
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What kind of connectors are on the ends of your audio cables (the ones you say are shielded twisted pair)? Quote:
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Connectors? What do you mean? RCA? They are soldered. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blackburn, Lancs
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For proper shielding the shield should be connected at both ends., connected at one end it is an antenna, and provides no RF shielding. A better method is to either use an isolation transformer, or at least connect the shield through a ring of capacitors at one end instead of leaving it floating.
http://www.hottconsultants.com/pdf_f...onnections.pdf |
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#17 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Quote:
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
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here's another
i used no shielding on internal cables, just very thick hook-up wire single star grounding (no sub stars at input resistor etc) earthed aluminium case, directly connected to star utter silence of course, you don't know it's on Last edited by Robert Kesh; 6th February 2013 at 06:32 PM. |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Yikes. I guess I have some reading to do.
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blackburn, Lancs
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Start with Henry Ott, I have his book, which provides an excellent reference for all these sort of things. He is probably the number one authority on all this sort of stuff, shelding grounding schemes etc:
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