help to power my diy amp kit

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hello i just bought this kit and i am finished soldering it. now i want to try it but i dont have any transformer and i don't know witch one to use.

it says Power Input:2 X 12VAC

can i build it myself? i have magnet wire from a scrapped tv.

i have not found any tutorial for this.

if it is impossible to build myself i want to know what transformer i can buy that will fit this kit.

link to the amp kit:
TDA2030A Audio Power Amplifier DIY Kit Components OCL 18W x 2 BTL 36W | eBay


thank you
 

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Not impossible, just not practical. You should look to buy a 24-volt center-tapped (24VCT) transformer, rated for 4 amps.
You'll also need a line cord, fuse and holder, connecting wire, and a constant remembrance that you will be dealing with mains voltages. Safety has priority. Use this thread any time you are uncertain of how things should be put together.
 
ok thanks for very good and fast replies=)
and thanks for letting me join this amazing forum.

I upload a picture of the heatsinks.
The smaller black one i plan to use for both the TDA2030A.
The big heatsink for the transformer?
i get them from a scrapped computer.

so if i get it correctly then this transformer will work for my kit?
Toroidal 230V Mains Transformer 50VA 0 12V 0 12V | eBay

it is more in my price range. this is going to be my first amp build so i dont want to spent too much on just learning the basics.

i know im dealing with 230v ac here so im planning for saftey first! ;)
 

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Hello i am back again
I wonder now how to connect this.
I need help to wire up my diagram so that i can start doing some testings.
will the speakers for my project work? can i have four speakers?
I also need to know how to wire the fuse holder and on off switch to the torodial transformer.

thank you for your help
 

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Sreten is right. I use a Radio Shack 12.6-0-12.6, 2A tx to power one of my TDA2050 stereo amps. Max non clipped sine wave power, both channels driven is 10w at 8 ohms and 15w into 4 ohms. Driving only one channel, I can get 18w into 4 ohms. So doubling up on the supply, each channel getting its own 50va supply, I only get 3 watts more per channel - an inaudible difference.

For comparison, I have a 28v ct 100va transformer and get 14w at 8 ohms and 22w at 4 ohms with the same amplifier. I wouldn't power a TDA2030A with this because peak current is 3.5a vs. 5 for the 2050, so a 24v ct 50va transformer will do the job and is cost effective.
 
There are IEC power connectors available with a little fuse drawer and the little round fuse holders that when wired correctly are a non shock hazard. It is always best to fuse a circuit as close as possible to where the power enters. Imagine someone probing around inside a device with a screwdriver and it accidentally makes contact to the lug on a switch and to ground. With the fuse after the switch, there is no protection and there will be a nice light show. I see some really cobbled together circuits by newcomers and even kids. many don't even have a fuse. I can imagine a part or wire coming loose and contacting an unprotected switch lug. Not good.
 
Imagine someone probing around inside a device with a screwdriver and it accidentally makes contact to the lug on a switch and to ground.


Fair point - for those who have no idea what they doing - for those I highly recommend ONLY battery powered projects - less than 12V !!!

But I still stand on my view :) Any-one dumb enough to go jabbing a screwdriver around a live circuit almost deserves a rude awakening.
 
I see a lot of posted pics of what I'd consider poor construction. One common hack job is where they bolt the IC to a heat sink and the circuit board is held only by the leads of the IC. One guy shipped his amp and the vibrations broke the leads. Dangling by the wires, the board can flop anywhere in the chassis. Another is the use of tape and/or glue. You get the idea.

If you are confident in your construction and the potential of someone poking around your circuit someday down the road, by all means, put the fuse after the switch.
 
I see a lot of posted pics of what I'd consider poor construction. One common hack job is where they bolt the IC to a heat sink and the circuit board is held only by the leads of the IC. One guy shipped his amp and the vibrations broke the leads. Dangling by the wires, the board can flop anywhere in the chassis.

ABSOLUTELY! Some guys construct thinking their stuff will never be moved, and works in zero gravity!

Another is the use of tape and/or glue. You get the idea.

TAPE?! I shudder................

Glue? depending on the glue.may not be SO bad. I sometimes resort to [generous amounts of] hot glue!
 
Thanks for all the replies. I am really happy im getting help here.
I am very interested in this small little project because it is new for me and i love to learn new things.

take a look now in my diagram how i have guessed the cable connections.
have i done completely wrong?
the toroidal transformer have four input and four outputs.
i have 3 leads from my main 230v ac.. brown, blue and a yellow/green ground.
and i am guessing i have to connect 3 leads to the amplifier also.. 12v AC, ground, and 12v DC again.
what colors to connect where?
do i have to bridge some wires on the transformer? or just leave the unused cables isolated?

johnr66, if i had knew what a 24v ct 50va transformer was and it is cheaper and more suitable to power my amp i would have used that one instead.. but i already bought the torodial transformer so that is what i have to stick with.

btw i am not a suicidal kid. just a noob when it comes to electronics at the moment, but i wish to change that.

thanks again for your patience.
 

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NO STOP.

The Green and Yellow Earth connection MUST NOT be connected where you have shown it.

Connect GREY and VIOLET together and insulate the connection.

Green and Yellow Earth should be connected to the metal work of the chassis.

Connect Vsec 1 to 0V so that the secondaries are in series.
 
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