Yes, the DC gets through to the load.
And the non blocking of DC at the input opens up the input to errors that affect the input offset current and input offset voltage of the amplifier, i.e. the amp will not work as intended by the designer.
If you don't know this then you should not be considering this modification.
You are behaving like a foolish child, who has no appreciation of danger and takes risks because they have no previous experience to fall back on. The not so foolish child listens to their parents.
And the non blocking of DC at the input opens up the input to errors that affect the input offset current and input offset voltage of the amplifier, i.e. the amp will not work as intended by the designer.
If you don't know this then you should not be considering this modification.
You are behaving like a foolish child, who has no appreciation of danger and takes risks because they have no previous experience to fall back on. The not so foolish child listens to their parents.
“Good judgement is the result of experience and experience the result of bad judgement.” Twain
The learning process can be painful to experienced onlookers, as in electronics it often results in damaged and destroyed components. Still, if I had never messed anything up, I wouldn't know what I know today.
The learning process can be painful to experienced onlookers, as in electronics it often results in damaged and destroyed components. Still, if I had never messed anything up, I wouldn't know what I know today.
Yes Andrew, I am of the school of thought that extending response to DC is quite foolish, and I do not understand the panacea surrounding it.
I think it is equally foolish to elimate the capacitor from the feedback network. Doing so will cause DC offset with "real world" signals (not test signals).
Oh those evil capacitors. I cannot stress enough that a properly designed circuit will not exhibit degraded performance with the inclusion of these two capacitors.
I agree that working without a DC blocking cap is not advised.
The other thing, you didn't say which amp design you are working with. If it is one of the MyRef series, then the collected wisdom is that removing the cap also hurts bass response due to an interaction with the 318 opamp. Other designs, the interaction won't be a problem.
If you don't want to spring for the Mundorf in question, then look around for other, less expensive alternatives. Try one of the cheap Russian caps. Depending on the value needed, you could try a Sprague Orange Drop or any number of metalized polypro caps.
The other thing, you didn't say which amp design you are working with. If it is one of the MyRef series, then the collected wisdom is that removing the cap also hurts bass response due to an interaction with the 318 opamp. Other designs, the interaction won't be a problem.
If you don't want to spring for the Mundorf in question, then look around for other, less expensive alternatives. Try one of the cheap Russian caps. Depending on the value needed, you could try a Sprague Orange Drop or any number of metalized polypro caps.
Why not just design the circuit so it swamps the nonlinearity of the capacitor?
Tubes, BJTs, and FETs are not linear. But with simple methods we can swamp that nonlinearity. Capacitors (even cheap ones) are far more linear than any active device. The same principles work with them too.
i plugged it in it sound awesome without any veil but i feel bass is a bit shy.... but highs and mids are awesome.... i could hear alot of details now....
when I was using polyester cap it was foggy how much was that got clear after plugging these in.... very nice and open sounding but I believe its pretty bright and too much open.....
or these caps need burning time?
when I was using polyester cap it was foggy how much was that got clear after plugging these in.... very nice and open sounding but I believe its pretty bright and too much open.....
or these caps need burning time?
As usual, Andrew makes a good point. Check the input impedance and figure out the corner frequency to see if you are affecting the bass.
As for burn in time, my experience with K71 styrene caps is that they do need some hours of burn in, but nothing terribly long like teflon. From what I have read, that is the trade-off with the styrene caps, lots of detail but the bass is not as full as with some caps. Some say they sound a little cool.
yeah true bass is not that rounded and full... but mids and highs are phenomenal...
mids have some overtones which I didnt like it went off when I used the silmic decoupling caps... it was just awesome loved the sound...
I have the following circuit...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...6-my-opa549-schematic-does-look-ok-opa549.gif
Andrew which rc time constant are you talking about? input cap and R2?
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After 14 hours I see the highfreq roughness has reduced but still the mids is pronounced....
but i would rather prefer musicality than details...
i have 4 x 4.7 metalized polyster film capacitor... i think i should try them...
I think the guys who like guitar will love styroflex at input....
i like the details in the mids and highs but
but i would rather prefer musicality than details...
i have 4 x 4.7 metalized polyster film capacitor... i think i should try them...
I think the guys who like guitar will love styroflex at input....
i like the details in the mids and highs but
... I think i can stick with polyester caps rather than going with styroflex. Probably will try Mundorf Silver oil caps soon 1uf costing about 60USD...
i replaced back the old config 8600pf Polystyrne parallel with 1uf Polyster cap gave back that warm bass and mids looked more like tube sound than ss...
I have a doubt to use the polystyrene 1uf parallel with 1uf / 50 silmic cap... using back to back to get .5uf cap...
i know its strange to parallel silmic with a film cap at the input but can It give what I want? I read somewhere that somebody tried blackgates at input which was sounding better than the film cap.. may be sonically but not in detail...
I have 50 silmics 1uf /50v and 100uf/35 70units can anybody suggest me how to use them?
I have a doubt to use the polystyrene 1uf parallel with 1uf / 50 silmic cap... using back to back to get .5uf cap...
i know its strange to parallel silmic with a film cap at the input but can It give what I want? I read somewhere that somebody tried blackgates at input which was sounding better than the film cap.. may be sonically but not in detail...
I have 50 silmics 1uf /50v and 100uf/35 70units can anybody suggest me how to use them?
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