generic components?

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I was planning on Avel. (one 250 the other 300 for separate builds.) Are Antek brand really much better for chipamps?

I doubt they are much different. As long as it is big enough to give good regulation it will work as well as any. Check prices. Also Antek can supply an eltrostatic shield between the primary and secondary. This is just a wrap of copper tape that you connect to ground. It stops any capasitive coupling of EMI. and has a slight safety advantage.

But mostly they ship flat rate and have low prices
 
Any thoughts on cheap pots?

I'm putting an order together at mouser and the selection is pretty weak.

The source of Alps and Nobel pots seem to be smaller shops with less strong bargaining power with the shippers. These pricey pots snuck up on me. I've been thinking about how it all comes together from the wall to the knob.
 
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I don't like cheap pots (though I have never bought an expensive one) The channel to channel differences are usually apalling, especially at low levels where it is most noticable. Perhaps someone can recommend one that isn't so bad. I ended up buying a cheapy $10 "stepped attenuator" from ebay HK it measures very well but I've not yet used it.

Tony.
 
Any thoughts on cheap pots?

I'm putting an order together at mouser and the selection is pretty weak.

The source of Alps and Nobel pots seem to be smaller shops with less strong bargaining power with the shippers. These pricey pots snuck up on me. I've been thinking about how it all comes together from the wall to the knob.

Do you need a volume control? I'd say you only need one if the source lacks a volume control. For example if you are using this to play and iPod the iPod has a volume control.

One other idea is to use two single pots. Then you can adjust each channel separately and use them as a "balance" control. Cheaper pots work because if seporate they don't have to match.

That said, I've decided that my next project will use a rotary shaft encoder. THis will connect to a $2 little micro controller. the uP will in turn control a programable resister for each channel. When you depress the knob the function changes between balance and volume. Using the uP opens up a lot of options.
 
Always go with generic components, as that will teach you to not trick yourself into believing that cost is related to quality. This is a sad way of living that is unfortunately getting more dominant by the day. Instead of wasting your money on equal or even inferior expensive parts, use that extra money on a good, non-selfish act.
 
Coconuts, I like your thinking, and you are right that price doesn't mean quality. I think quality comes from attention to detail, I'm just trying to figure out which of these details I should pay attention to.

I'll probably be using something without volume control.

This digital/IC pot idea is one I haven't noticed any writing about up to now. Seems like a nice idea.

Any experience with these out there?
 
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This digital/IC pot idea is one I haven't noticed any writing about up to now. Seems like a nice idea...

Every car radio is made this say. Most home A/V recievers too.

Best source of information is the data sheets here is a link to one:
AD5274 datasheet and product info | 256-Position, 1% Resistor Tolerance Error, I2C Interface and 50-TP Memory Digital Rheostat | Digital Potentiometers | Analog Devices

The above is like a 256 step 1% rotary attenuator. It sells for about $1. A lot cheaper then building one, that is if you even could find a 256 position rotary switch. They make them with 1024 steps too

Usually when you program these you'd look at the rate the encoder is being turned and make bigger steps if the user is turning it fast and small steps if he is going slow. It works better than using a pot.

The learn how to use these buy an Aruino try hands on.
Arduino - HomePage
 
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