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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
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Hello all!
I need an amplifier for bedroom or small room to listen CDs and TV. I've decided to build a LM3886 based small amplifier. Very good sound quality is a must, but I am not willing to sacrifice everything for the best in class. The size of the amp (and also the cost) was on very high scrutiny. :-) After reading some posts here, the result is on the next two diagrams: lm3886_additional_components -> optimization of the original power_supply -> passive and simple enough Based on experience, I would like your help to review the above schematics and also I’d appreciate any advices or ideas. Thank you |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Cin is in the wrong location. It must be after the pot.
The 1uF // to the 470 nfb cap is not required. The 1uF on the PSU are not required. All the 100nF caps around the secondary and the rectifier must be converted to R+C snubbers. The 1nF caps on the primary must be Y rated. You can add an X rated cap from N to L. Cs can be simplified back to the National recommendation. That works well. The 100r//100n could kill you, or another operator/user if left in the location shown. You must ensure that the route from Main Audio Ground can pass mains Fault current to Chassis and then to Protective Earth (PE) Last edited by AndrewT; 9th August 2012 at 11:50 AM. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Sofia
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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then fit a Rin value that suits.
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#5 |
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just another
diyAudio Moderator
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+1 on Andrews comment on the 100R//100n see "loop breaker" here Earthing (Grounding) Your Hi-Fi - Tricks and Techniques for a safer way to do it. (read the whole page whilst you are at it)
Tony. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
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Thank you Andrew for your help: some answers below:
Quote:
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Sofia
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: The Netherlands
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See my thread "LM3886 without electrolytic feedback capacitor and (hardly) no DC offset voltage". You can save an electrolytic capacitor and good ones are expensive.
The pot must be placed before Cin. The DC regime is not destroyed because of the R of 20 Kohm after the Cin. There is no need for Cc of 220 pF. See my thread "LM3886: Stability at high frequencies and output level". Marc. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
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Thanks for feedback, I would like to point out that the cap in the feedback is not electrolytic, most likely is a non polarised and very affordable price. Could be used MUSE 100µF - 1,60 € or MUSE 470µF - 2,70 €.
Condensateur radial audio MUSE - 25V - 100µF - Condensateurs Condensateur radial audio MUSE - 25V - 470µF - Condensateurs |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Sofia
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