That's why I inserted the FWIW (For What It's Worth)
..and here's another - There is a 16 foot BNC cable between the computer and the DAC/FEs. The amps are monoblocks, each with a short 3 foot DIY AC Belden wire mains cable that come from separate outlets on the same dedicated circuit.
The entertainment center can be switched off by a single button on the power center (bottom unit in photo). After a bit of research I learned the filtering ability of the Monster box can degrade the performance of power amps (or isn't necessary) - thus the direct AC feed. Someday I might combine the amps, DAC, and a pre for an integrated build, but right now I'm stuck with a three or four step system activation process. I've almost got a path worn into the carpet to follow if I forget.
If I ever get to the end of this silly amp/pre/DAC/speaker building phase, I'll go "SLICK" with the magical mystical RF system I bought three years ago.
P.S. I still cant do a one button off as it produces error/delay if Windows isn't shut down properly first.
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Interesting. I use a 1 button power on and power off of the FEs and DAC and no pop or thump.
Jac
You are correct Jac. The separate AC feeds are most likely overkill. The dedicated AC circuit is a leftover from a time I had a video workstation, multi-synth music DAW and the main computer in the same room. No place for a couch for the occasional human who might occasionally intrude. 
I'm not sure if the new arrangement is better or worser. Years ago when renting a house on a summer long road assignment, my landlord said I reminded him of his nephew who had a fixation with extension cords - over 1000 in the collection. Someday I'll melt down all the copper I own and have a second retirement.
I'm not sure if the new arrangement is better or worser. Years ago when renting a house on a summer long road assignment, my landlord said I reminded him of his nephew who had a fixation with extension cords - over 1000 in the collection. Someday I'll melt down all the copper I own and have a second retirement.
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On the topic of turn off thump or pop; when the hum was present the pop on turn off was very pronounced. Now it is present although minimal in comparison. Funny though with pgnd in place it was non existent.
I did find some 1/4 id 3/8 od polyethylene tubing that should fit right over the mounts for the k71s. I think ptfe has better dielectric qualities, but the thickness of the material should make up for it.
I did find some 1/4 id 3/8 od polyethylene tubing that should fit right over the mounts for the k71s. I think ptfe has better dielectric qualities, but the thickness of the material should make up for it.
Yes but I have yet to see a commercial offering of tubular plywood in the exact perfect dimension. And this tubing is already infused with snake oil eliminating the mixing step
Really strage, no turn off thump should be present...BTW if you don't feel PGND connection detrimental, you can use it without problem.
Once I get things buttoned up I will do some comparative listening. If the pop is an issue I may use pgnd, hopefully it will not be necessary. If it is hopefully it will not be audible.
Btw, Dario are you using a mains relay with a switch drivers in your build? I seem to remember a lighted switch in your build...
Btw, Dario are you using a mains relay with a switch drivers in your build? I seem to remember a lighted switch in your build...
In this moment I'm using a plain switch but in my final build I'll use the same boards and a similar vandal resistant switch...
In this thread Mr Douglas Self (author of the small signal audio design , which I have just acquired) says about chip amps:
My experience with chip amps (or anyway some of them) is quite extensive. It is not however happy. I find them unreliable- even now, apparently reputable manufacturers will produce whole batches that fail quickly, though not quickly enough to be caught during test. A nightmare.
What do you think about it, Dario ?
My experience with chip amps (or anyway some of them) is quite extensive. It is not however happy. I find them unreliable- even now, apparently reputable manufacturers will produce whole batches that fail quickly, though not quickly enough to be caught during test. A nightmare.
What do you think about it, Dario ?
No, your comment is fine here. Unfortunately many confuse a traditional "chipamp" with an amplifier designed around a chip. The differences in parts count alone should be a clear indication they are not the same. As I'm sure you are aware, I did a head to head between the FE RC and a $5000 tube amp. They were very similar. I'll do another with the final version and bet they will be almost indistinguishable.
Since I have also been playing around in the Pass/discrete world, IMHO there are some sonic signatures unique to each approach. That's not necessarily a measure of quality - more a personal preference.
From my perch, I might lean toward discrete/tube for some classical music and a MyRef for everything else. However, the speed and dynamics of the FEs really enhance big orchestral works
Since I have also been playing around in the Pass/discrete world, IMHO there are some sonic signatures unique to each approach. That's not necessarily a measure of quality - more a personal preference.
From my perch, I might lean toward discrete/tube for some classical music and a MyRef for everything else. However, the speed and dynamics of the FEs really enhance big orchestral works
Yeah, I am after the dynamics and speed !
My (not so) reference commercial amp is Cyrus, UK.
They have such nice attacking sound I would be very happy to get one from FE.
I want to twist some speaker wires BTW, now I have Blue Jeans cable. I know you have this accomplished. Question- where did you get this shielded cable from ?
My (not so) reference commercial amp is Cyrus, UK.
They have such nice attacking sound I would be very happy to get one from FE.
I want to twist some speaker wires BTW, now I have Blue Jeans cable. I know you have this accomplished. Question- where did you get this shielded cable from ?
Not shielded - self shielding with the interweave. Jac has started a pair and I'm looking forward to his review.
DIY CAT5 Speaker Cables.
DIY CAT5 Speaker Cables.
I find them unreliable- even now, apparently reputable manufacturers will produce whole batches that fail quickly, though not quickly enough to be caught during test. A nightmare.
What do you think about it, Dario ?
Nothing, at all...
Maybe I've been lucky so far but never had a single LM3386 failure not due to abuse (like static, repeated soldering/desoldering or insufficient heat dissipation).
I made a pair of these last fall and they definitely have a unique sound to them. When paired with my audiosector lm4780 integrated and ess amt monitors they sound great. With the same amp and my klipsch kg4s I get a little hiss. I have been using the kg4s more lately so I have not listened with them in a while. I guess I need to try to figure out the cause of this too.
I think Dario recommended a low capacitance cable iirc, correct me if im wrong.
I will probably audition these with the FE if for no other reason to see if hiss is present here with the kgs too. I would love to be able to use these as they do sound great. And yes it is worth the effort, although your fingers will pay the price.
And you will get strange looks and comments from anyone who sees you braiding tiny wire together for a week or two
I think Dario recommended a low capacitance cable iirc, correct me if im wrong.
I will probably audition these with the FE if for no other reason to see if hiss is present here with the kgs too. I would love to be able to use these as they do sound great. And yes it is worth the effort, although your fingers will pay the price.
And you will get strange looks and comments from anyone who sees you braiding tiny wire together for a week or two
Bob,
Do I recall correctly that you liked the sound of the CAT5 cables with the FE and your Sunflower speakers? I agree that the speakers may make a lot of difference since according to VH Audio, the braided speakers end up as low inductance and mid- capacitance.
Actually, I'm going to try something a little different. The VH Audio braids are 27 strand, 10 gauge wires. For the short runs I am planning (4 feet for the subwoofer and 2 feet for the satellites), I really don't need 10 gauge. I will try using 9 strands (3x3) for about 14.5 gauge. That should be low enough resistance and keep the inductance and capacitance down. At 14.5 gauge, the resistance of 4 feet is only 0.3 % of my speakers minimum impedance, so it should be low enough resistance.
Jac
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