Just Fo The Fun of It - maybe something like this 
1. Sealed cooler with internal fins.
2. Heat transfer tape. Leftover from piece bought years ago for computer projects.
3. Aluminum block for chip mounting.
4. Nylon tee.
5. Vinyl tubing.
Used the footprint method to locate mounting screw location. Jut put a little paste (Machinists us bluing) on the chip (with standoffs attached) and pressed it against the HS. Should have thought of that sooner.
For deep threads I ground off the starting taper on a regular tap. Using a drill press assures a 90 degree hole
Messed up the tape lay (its stretchy without membrane covers) on one but the otter was perfect. Clamped overnight for best bond possible.
Hope to be hearing some "Cool Sounds" by the weekend.
PS - Hey metal, I almost bought one of these as you suggested. Definitely smaller and more convenient than liquid nitrogen.
1. Sealed cooler with internal fins.
2. Heat transfer tape. Leftover from piece bought years ago for computer projects.
3. Aluminum block for chip mounting.
4. Nylon tee.
5. Vinyl tubing.
Used the footprint method to locate mounting screw location. Jut put a little paste (Machinists us bluing) on the chip (with standoffs attached) and pressed it against the HS. Should have thought of that sooner.
For deep threads I ground off the starting taper on a regular tap. Using a drill press assures a 90 degree hole
Messed up the tape lay (its stretchy without membrane covers) on one but the otter was perfect. Clamped overnight for best bond possible.
Hope to be hearing some "Cool Sounds" by the weekend.
PS - Hey metal, I almost bought one of these as you suggested. Definitely smaller and more convenient than liquid nitrogen.
Attachments
Dario,
I checked on Mouser for other non-polarized 'lytics that might be interesting. Soongsc has access to the CapXon, but they aren't available from the usual suspects. One that might be interesting was a Nichicon Muse 220uF, 6.3V, non-polarized. The data sheet says it is good for audio. Just a thought.
Jac
OK you guys. Go ahead and ignore me if that makes you feel good. But when the entire industry adopts the "Bomac Liquid Audio" format for audiophile listening, I won't be bitter that I got zero support from the FE thread members.
That's how you wanna be? So just go on with your own fine selves. I WILL wipe away the tears and carry on as best I can.
That's how you wanna be? So just go on with your own fine selves. I WILL wipe away the tears and carry on as best I can.
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Bob, dry your tears....I know I was waiting for more info on your plans for your system. Like what are you using to pump fluid? Reservoir? And what about mono blocks? Are they going to share a pump and reservoir? If one circulates better than the other then one may polute the other with heat. What about this?
And dark sounding too...not my cup of tea...
That's how you wanna be? So just go on with your own fine selves. I WILL wipe away the tears and carry on as best I can.
For sure it's a cool project... don't give up!
Liquid cross-talk?
Half OFF TOPIC Alert
Bob,
Maybe I missed it. Have you said what liquid you will use? Often in electric transformers, they use oil. I have also seen an electric car motor that was cooled by oil. The advantage is that oil is less electrically conductive in the case of a leak.
In the theme of the BLAT, maybe a nice light olive oil. Tastes good.
On another subject, I know you are in pursuit of excellence in audio and that you have had a little hum. I was reading Peter Daniels in another thread. He was talking about using a TVC as a pre-amp. It took a little finding, but a TVC is a transformer volume control. Said to be excellent for sound and hum. Naturally, the price is higher than the JC-3. Anyway, follow the address below to read a bit more about it.
SOWTER ATTENUATOR TRANSFORMERS TVC VOLUME CONTROL
Jac
Bob,
Maybe I missed it. Have you said what liquid you will use? Often in electric transformers, they use oil. I have also seen an electric car motor that was cooled by oil. The advantage is that oil is less electrically conductive in the case of a leak.
In the theme of the BLAT, maybe a nice light olive oil. Tastes good.
On another subject, I know you are in pursuit of excellence in audio and that you have had a little hum. I was reading Peter Daniels in another thread. He was talking about using a TVC as a pre-amp. It took a little finding, but a TVC is a transformer volume control. Said to be excellent for sound and hum. Naturally, the price is higher than the JC-3. Anyway, follow the address below to read a bit more about it.
SOWTER ATTENUATOR TRANSFORMERS TVC VOLUME CONTROL
Jac
I did a little study back when I started and settled on 95% distilled water (no or low conductivity) and a pro coolant at 5%. Has worked well in one computer for close to seven years - with a flush and replacement every two. I'll look into oil and the other references you have given.
Never made it out of the house today but the Blat will be on the menu tomorrow.
Never made it out of the house today but the Blat will be on the menu tomorrow.
Attachments
Forgot to mention - the JC-2 pre hum also disappears when connected to two BrianGT monoblocks and the beta FEs - even with a single/common AC feed. I'll post on the other thread if and when I get some resolution. Until then like you, I'm really enjoying the RC builds 
with just the volume control from JRiver Media Studio.
BTW: Don't want to get way off thread again, but what program(s) are you Mac (or Linux) guys with DACs using to feed the FEs?
(Sorry Dario, there are just too many variables/components, and admittedly there is a severe lack of adult supervision around my castle)
with just the volume control from JRiver Media Studio.BTW: Don't want to get way off thread again, but what program(s) are you Mac (or Linux) guys with DACs using to feed the FEs?
(Sorry Dario, there are just too many variables/components, and admittedly there is a severe lack of adult supervision around my castle
)
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cheers!
at last I've built my first power amp too! it's only one channel now and I'm still waiting for several decent parts, but it's already running, hence would like to clarify few questions:
1. mine has very noticeable grounding sound (not placed in enclosure yet) - some kind of low frequency hum even if the pcb's input socket is completely disconnected. If I touch the surface of 1uf Russian cap, it's getting considerably louder. This is definitely how it shouldn't be, though what could be the cause I didn't figure out. Same behaviour is with my simple preamp (low pass filter -> opamp, Salas PS-> output resistor).
2. the preamp I use has approximately 3x gain, 10k Alps pot and it seems it's a bit overkill. Is everybody using just a pot or some passive preamp? What would be better?
3. every time I switch off my preamp I get very loud snap or crack in the speakers, then relay clicks, LED is off and amp needs to be turned off and on. Is there any simple output stage that could be added after opamp to prevent this? Moreover, I have already burned somehow 1R resistor and T201 doing similar switching yesterday, not sure was it the volume level or the series of turning on and off my preamp, but in the end i've got not working FE and spent hours to figure out what was fried...
4. I've got recently a Watt meter (quite decent and nicely built tool) and it shows me only 6-7w consumptions when FE is playing (I'm using 100VA 2x18 toroid for my 4ohm speakers), how could that be? tested with bulb or ipad charger, for instance, and the values are shown very accurately. So just curious why 100VA toroid doesn't consume that much energy?!
at last I've built my first power amp too! it's only one channel now and I'm still waiting for several decent parts, but it's already running, hence would like to clarify few questions:
1. mine has very noticeable grounding sound (not placed in enclosure yet) - some kind of low frequency hum even if the pcb's input socket is completely disconnected. If I touch the surface of 1uf Russian cap, it's getting considerably louder. This is definitely how it shouldn't be, though what could be the cause I didn't figure out. Same behaviour is with my simple preamp (low pass filter -> opamp, Salas PS-> output resistor).
2. the preamp I use has approximately 3x gain, 10k Alps pot and it seems it's a bit overkill. Is everybody using just a pot or some passive preamp? What would be better?
3. every time I switch off my preamp I get very loud snap or crack in the speakers, then relay clicks, LED is off and amp needs to be turned off and on. Is there any simple output stage that could be added after opamp to prevent this? Moreover, I have already burned somehow 1R resistor and T201 doing similar switching yesterday, not sure was it the volume level or the series of turning on and off my preamp, but in the end i've got not working FE and spent hours to figure out what was fried...
4. I've got recently a Watt meter (quite decent and nicely built tool) and it shows me only 6-7w consumptions when FE is playing (I'm using 100VA 2x18 toroid for my 4ohm speakers), how could that be? tested with bulb or ipad charger, for instance, and the values are shown very accurately. So just curious why 100VA toroid doesn't consume that much energy?!
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The transformer probably wastes 2W to 5W doing nothing at it's output.
The chipamp consumes ~50mA/channel and with +-30Vdc that amounts to another 3W.
With zero output that accounts for 5W to 8W.
Now add on output power and a correction factor for amplifier losses when output is very low.
I would estimate that your Watt meter is underestimating the power being consumed from the mains.
The chipamp consumes ~50mA/channel and with +-30Vdc that amounts to another 3W.
With zero output that accounts for 5W to 8W.
Now add on output power and a correction factor for amplifier losses when output is very low.
I would estimate that your Watt meter is underestimating the power being consumed from the mains.
dtses,
Currently I'm using a direct feed from a DAC. I don't get a thump or any noise at all if the FEs are turned off first. If the switch on a a power strip is used there is both a thump and a low frequency whistle sound I'll call cap unloading. With no input connected there is always a hum/buzz.
There is a discussion on another thread addressing possible differences between how the beta and the RC hear preamps. The Alps self-contained pot I built works well and is silent. I have not been able to totally eliminate hum with any active volume control device between a source and the RC. Dario and others have been more successful.
Currently I'm using a direct feed from a DAC. I don't get a thump or any noise at all if the FEs are turned off first. If the switch on a a power strip is used there is both a thump and a low frequency whistle sound I'll call cap unloading. With no input connected there is always a hum/buzz.
There is a discussion on another thread addressing possible differences between how the beta and the RC hear preamps. The Alps self-contained pot I built works well and is silent. I have not been able to totally eliminate hum with any active volume control device between a source and the RC. Dario and others have been more successful.
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