My_Ref Fremen Edition RC - Build thread

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You got it right. Just use a file but be careful not to go too far as that will let the leads flop around in the sockets.. Sneak up gradually on a clean but snug fit. Use a very fine file that doesn't remove too much material on a single stroke.
 
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I should add that the sockets can take only so much manipulation when installed on the board. A preferred method is to use a spare socket off board and fit it over the lead as you adjust the size.

I had better luck using needle nose pliers (on each lead close to the end) rather than fingers for the final insertion on the build. I don't even try to do a swap or rotation without those, good lighting and some sort of magnification.
 
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For you guys that have used these sockets before, what do you do when the leads are too thick? My thought was to file down a short section of lead to fit. Open for ideas. I am hoping to socket and compare C9 and C13

Hi Jac,

as Bob already pointed out using a file you can do it.

But for bigger leads (like C13 ones) PCB mount faston tabs (Mouser 571-63756-1) are a better choice than sockets:

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I powered up both channels and something is wrong and i cant understand what. Voltage across 3886 and 318 are ok but relay does not click. I dont have CC on output but the voltage acros relay coil is 12 volt. Infact before R14 ihave 24v but after i have almost 12v the same like on relay coil.
R14 is a bit warm.
 
Yes the error is the sameon both channels. The leds are ON but normally a should have 24v across D4 (diode paraleled with relay coil) but i have only 12v.
I will try to disconect R14 and see if without protection circuit connected i can measure 24v.

LE. Seems that DC protection is hungry. Disconnected R14 and i have 23v before and after. I will take a closer look to the DC protection circuit.
 
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My Myref FE RC is singing from few hours already. First thing noticed is that the all 4 LM317's are running hot and i think a smal heatsink would be good.
Also my LM3886 are running a bit hot but this is because my heatsink from Banzai Music is not flat enough and the contact surface is not perfect flat. I was thinking to put some aluminium foil between IC and heatsink because the thermal paste is not enough.
About sound quality after burn in and after i buy the next speakers as my previuous i sold for upgrade. Now i'm using some poor Sont speakers for tests.
 
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Don't know if you want to go through the hassle, but there is a fairly simple way to flatten the heat sink. You need a flat surface that can be anything from a piece of granite, marble, ceramic tile or even thick glassiness. A few sheets of wet-dry sandpaper attached with thin double sided carpet or carpenters tape. The grits should range from ~ 120 - 1600.

Draw a bunch of squiggly lines on the heat sink and do a few passes on the dry sandpaper to identify the high spots. If the surface is really bad, lay a file on the bench/table and draw the part across it to get close. Then add water and work up through the grits. You should be able to get to a point where scraping the surface with the blade of a utility knife produces a full width impression. You now have a flat surface. If your heat sink is very large just using the blade as a scraper on the LM3886 contact area can be very effective.

It is not a one time system as the same setup can be used to create a great brushed satin finish chassis parts. In that case you draw the part across the sandpaper in only one direction.
 

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