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Old 29th December 2012, 02:20 PM   #881
Reality first!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grigore View Post
Did you compared the two amplifiers, yours against the Penasa?
If you mean the My_Ref Rev C Vs my variation (which in fact is a modded My_Ref), obvioulsy yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by grigore View Post
I have found the Penasa amplifier very good sounding but the sound is a bit dry comparing to other solid states desings.
How the My_Ref sound is related also on parts used.

BTW, IMHO, the My_Ref Fremen Edition sound better and different from the My_Ref Rev C, more refined with wider and deeper soundstage and a much tighter, controlled, deep bass.
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Old 29th December 2012, 03:44 PM   #882
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Grigore,

If you dig a bit, you will find that Bob (bcmbob) made the comparison to a MyRef C with LF01 somewhere back in the FE Beta thread. Many would consider that the ultimate MyRef version. He found the FE a significant improvement.

I can't comment on that from personal experience, but I would like to echo Dario's comments on components. You said that the Penasa amp was a bit dry sounding. Following input from others on the forum, I have found that you can make a significant change is this kind of character just by the choice of DC blocking cap, C13, at the signal input. I have tried polyprop caps with aluminum, copper, and tin which all have different mixes of warmth, detail, and bass. For example, at the moment, I am using a 1 uF Russian K75 (hybrid of paper and polymer dielectric) paralleled by a 1 nF Amtrans polyprop. That is nicely warm and full with pretty good detail due to the small parallel cap.

So if you have a MyRef and want to improve it, there are lots of ways to go. If you don't have one, but are thinking of building, then Dario's FE is an excellent choice. It is the Penasa design, just with an improved, shunt style voltage regulator, a ground plane board design, and a few other minor improvements. One big thing is that Dario has spent a huge number of hours learning which components sound the best in this design. Whether you build using the premium or budget BOM, you have the advantage of a lot of detail work going into the choices. You know what they say, every component counts.

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Old 29th December 2012, 04:14 PM   #883
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Took a bit to find it but here is the referenced post. I should add that I'm waiting delivery on a new version LFO-3c, that apparently can be used with more than just the MyRef amps. Looking forward to hearing them.
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Old 29th December 2012, 04:26 PM   #884
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With some time off for the holidays I was finally able to get started on the FE boards! I spent a few hours yesterday soldering all of the SMD parts. Unfortunately I am pretty sure I have a solder bridge between two or more of the pins on one of the lm318. I have soldered a few SMDs before and I dont remember them giving me this much trouble.(though I did not have a quiet workspace where I could concentrate this time).

How resistant to heat are the lm318s? Can I rework them, or should I just order some replacements?

I am excited to finally be underway....and for the most part being done with the SMDs

Here is a pic....not really my best work but hopefully good enough for great sound!
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File Type: jpg smd1.jpg (65.1 KB, 157 views)

Last edited by SoIL4x4; 29th December 2012 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 29th December 2012, 04:53 PM   #885
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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Can't see a bridge. Can you focus in closer?
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Old 29th December 2012, 06:27 PM   #886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoIL4x4 View Post
With some time off for the holidays I was finally able to get started on the FE boards! I spent a few hours yesterday soldering all of the SMD parts.
Very good !

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoIL4x4 View Post
Unfortunately I am pretty sure I have a solder bridge between two or more of the pins on one of the lm318.
(...)
How resistant to heat are the lm318s? Can I rework them, or should I just order some replacements?
You can rework them, but you must be fast, use solderwick and flux to remove excess solder.

Do the same also for quite all resistors, way too much solder (you should never see a bubble).

BTW having at hands a spare LM318 can be useful if you later discover they were heated too much.
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Old 29th December 2012, 09:07 PM   #887
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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Dario, I'm all out of solder again. Can you re-post the one (brand and size) you prefer to use?
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Old 29th December 2012, 09:33 PM   #888
SoIL4x4 is offline SoIL4x4  United States
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Better?
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Old 29th December 2012, 09:49 PM   #889
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I see it now. Might take a few day's waiting, but Dario's favorite Chipquick process will handle it. I have had great results with the braid and regular liquid flux method also.

Using Chipquick.
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Old 29th December 2012, 10:38 PM   #890
SoIL4x4 is offline SoIL4x4  United States
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Bob, thanks for the video. that looks easy! I may try that or I may try the chipquik and solder wick. Not sure, but the bridge is hidden under the chip where I cant get to it without pulling off the whole ic. I am worried about all of the heat that has been applied, will be applied while removing the chip and will be needed to re-solder it. It might be best to order a few more from mouser and for now move on to some of the other areas of the board. hopefully I have not forgotten how to solder and the through hole components go right the first time

PS..I also killed a 10pf cap at C34 so I removed them both and replaced them with the alternate 27pf that I ordered with the BOM. I wish I had ordered extra 318s
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