Thanks, I remember reading about that tap but was unclesr if it detracted from the amp. Apparently not. I knew that was a reg and sustected you drew from the cap.
I'm a big fan of cat 5/6 and have read where some useres think it is very close to some of the high dollar Cardas stuff in certain applications
I think your case is classy. Is it DIY?
I'm a big fan of cat 5/6 and have read where some useres think it is very close to some of the high dollar Cardas stuff in certain applications
I think your case is classy. Is it DIY?
Dario,
How do you start with component choices when you start with a new project? For example, do you just assume that Susumu's are high quality and will be a good choice for SMD resistors? How do you pick? Do you think, this project will need a little warmth, but mostly needs neutral components? I am curious to understand the start of your process.
Bob,
Since you asked for an update, I'm at the point of thinking about a chassis. And I need to move forward with a new balanced input/output board for my sub so that I can put together the FE's, my balanced line receivers, and my balanced pre-amp into a system. I hope to use what I have learned in this project to recreate my current design with higher quality (and, yes, SMD) components.
I still have sockets in my FE's, but I'll finalize my choices soon.
In the meantime, I learned that there are Fremen script numbers, at least 1 through 6, and a partial alphabet of the Fremen language. Maybe, I should letter the chassis in Fremen.
Jac
Finally, the bass issue has been solved 
I'm really embarrassed and it's awkward to say the truth, but it turned out that there was no bass issue at all with FE...
Several weeks of headache and stupid comparison of left and right speakers (my Restek vs FE) mixed me up a bit. I've replaced R10, R13 as well as Tackmans in smd, PS caps, power resistor and heard no difference at all!! The thing is that the right speaker is placed in the corner of my room in some 25-30cm from the walls, whereas the left one is in the wide doorway. I could not even imagine there is a difference and it is so huge as when I'm sitting or standing and listening to some Metallica's drums they are right there where they should be So I swapped the channels, made another few test runs and now am pretty confident that FE is ok!
thanks everybody for help and advices!
I'm eager to try now:
-reversing Tackmans (R10, R13)
-swapping C1 & C2 from FG to Elna RJH as in the BoM
-putting cement R3 instead of my paralleled DALEs
-comparing Vishay smd (50ppm) to my mistakenly bought Tackmans
but that should be made once the second board is ready otherwise no difference was perceived by me.
I'm really embarrassed and it's awkward to say the truth, but it turned out that there was no bass issue at all with FE...
Several weeks of headache and stupid comparison of left and right speakers (my Restek vs FE) mixed me up a bit. I've replaced R10, R13 as well as Tackmans in smd, PS caps, power resistor and heard no difference at all!! The thing is that the right speaker is placed in the corner of my room in some 25-30cm from the walls, whereas the left one is in the wide doorway. I could not even imagine there is a difference and it is so huge as when I'm sitting or standing and listening to some Metallica's drums they are right there where they should be
So I swapped the channels, made another few test runs and now am pretty confident that FE is ok!thanks everybody for help and advices!
I'm eager to try now:
-reversing Tackmans (R10, R13)
-swapping C1 & C2 from FG to Elna RJH as in the BoM
-putting cement R3 instead of my paralleled DALEs
-comparing Vishay smd (50ppm) to my mistakenly bought Tackmans
but that should be made once the second board is ready otherwise no difference was perceived by me.
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cannot recommend any seller as I'm still waiting the ones I've ordered here. The RJHs I used are friend of mines caps.
well, if I were you I would give it a try. Indeed that could shorten caps' life (that what I was told), but it's already two years now since I've put 50v MUSE in my Restek (it's about 49vdc on the rails there) and no issues, explosions or anything present now, it works and performs splendidly. I'm not planning to use the amp for all my life, one day I'll sell it as it happens with all hi-fi equipment, so my goal was a bit different unlike 10-15y caps' life expectancy
I guess Dario would give you more feasible advice here being the designer of FE.
I've got 24vdc after rectification in my FE, would probably stay with 25v PS caps as need them to be quite flat.
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Decided that I could'nt wait and a package arrived this morning from Farnell and as todays plans had fallen through I warmed up the soldering iron.You guys must have better eyesight and steadier hands than me it took ages to solder the smd's and by the end of the afternoon they were being called more than that.Good job there was nobody home but me.Any way I'm getting there.Has any one tried Kendiel K05 caps for C101 & C201?
Do you have any of the RJH caps left by any chance Dario?
.Any way I'm getting there.Has any one tried Kendiel K05 caps for C101 & C201?Do you have any of the RJH caps left by any chance Dario?
Status
Well sad to say I have been on hold for the past six weeks dealing with familial obligations. This is hopefully at or near it's end and I can get back to finishing this project. But where I am currently is one board is nearly done being populated. This is my first outing with smd components and it was interesting/fun. I believe all went well but will know for sure once powered up. Component wise I used all suggested best parts from the BOM with a couple of exceptions. For C9 I have the standard BK but it is the 4(?) volt version so I will begin with the Nichicon FG. For C13 I have the K71-4. Transformers are the AN3225 300ma's. If all goes well I will give these a listen in a week or two.
Paul
Well sad to say I have been on hold for the past six weeks dealing with familial obligations. This is hopefully at or near it's end and I can get back to finishing this project. But where I am currently is one board is nearly done being populated. This is my first outing with smd components and it was interesting/fun. I believe all went well but will know for sure once powered up. Component wise I used all suggested best parts from the BOM with a couple of exceptions. For C9 I have the standard BK but it is the 4(?) volt version so I will begin with the Nichicon FG. For C13 I have the K71-4. Transformers are the AN3225 300ma's. If all goes well I will give these a listen in a week or two.
Paul
Absolutely not!
I select listening from a variety of components.
This bouquet of parts is pre-selected according availability from Mouser/PCX/Distrelec/RS Components and sometimes eBay.
Obviously parts with good reports enters the bouquet too.
The one that sounds better become part of the BOM.
Regarding Susumus, which have very good reports, I've compared them to other industrial and audiophile parts and they've come second only to Vishay bulk foil.
Vishays are incredibly neutral, detailed, smooth while Susumus are inferior but not much and with a touch of wamth more.
I'm not sure to understand.. Do you think some warmth is needed for the FE?
The input cap C13 has a big role regarding warmth, the K71-4 are a bit on the cold side of neutral.
BTW my main goal when selecting parts is neutrality, detail, naturalness, lack of harshness, full fleshed sound.
It would be a cool thing...
Finally, the bass issue has been solved
Fine, I'm happy for you
Cool
If SMD soldering took you a couple of hours, you're perfectly average.
Sadly, no. But you can buy them directly from Elfa
Kendeill are very well regarded caps, they'll probaly sound great but I never tried them.
I do agree, now I like a lot SMD soldering.
It's a safe and smart approach.
Fine
I'll read your comments with interest.
Dario told me he can tell whenever someone starts the SMDs cause he feels a phantom finger thump in the middle of his forehead. I think it's a Dune thing.
Do yo mean that headaches I''ve had in these last days are due to this?
I was sure they were due to nicotine abstinence...
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You have the support of us all.
Dario,
First of all, sorry to hear about your headaches and other nicotine side effects, but keep the faith. We are with you in spirit.
As for the quote above, I apologize for the confusion. I think the FE sounds fine, just like it is. I am very happy with mine.
My questions about how you choose components was because I am about to start a new crossover and feedback board for my subwoofer. I wanted to learn how you started component selection.
As a one-off board, I want to get good components into it, but probably won't have time to audition as many as you have. Now that you guys have taught me how to solder SMD, I will use SMD components where possible. I was hoping for a short cut to selecting good components, but as you say, it takes a bouquet to get the right ones.
In the meantime, I've already learned a lot about which components to start with. Perhaps, once I have confirmed my component values, I can PM you for suggestions on capacitors and resistors.
Thank you, sensei.
Jac
Bob,
Thanks for the suggestion. I know that Tom knows his stuff.
In this case, I already have an active crossover design that I like a lot. I used SoundEasy software to shape the crossover to match both my sub and my satellites in both phase and amplitude.
The board project is to redo the circuit using better components, power supply, and as a balanced signal. It's kind of like what Dario did with MyRef, just a different part of the chain.
Wish me luck though. There are a lot of things that can go wrong as Tom has already warned me.
Jac
Thanks for the suggestion. I know that Tom knows his stuff.
In this case, I already have an active crossover design that I like a lot. I used SoundEasy software to shape the crossover to match both my sub and my satellites in both phase and amplitude.
The board project is to redo the circuit using better components, power supply, and as a balanced signal. It's kind of like what Dario did with MyRef, just a different part of the chain.
Wish me luck though. There are a lot of things that can go wrong as Tom has already warned me.
Jac
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