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Old 11th August 2012, 07:26 PM   #91
Marra is offline Marra  United Kingdom
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Safewash 2000 followed by Saferinse 2000 works for me and leaves the board shiney.

Last edited by Marra; 11th August 2012 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 11th August 2012, 09:11 PM   #92
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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Here's my process. I do it after soldering is done and keep the top dry.

JA Pre and MyRef - FE Integration
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Old 11th August 2012, 09:17 PM   #93
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Quote:
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Do you guys try to wash off the tacky flux after soldering?
Absolutely

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If you do remove the flux, do you wait until all components are soldered?
It makes sense.

I usually clean two times, the first after SMD soldering and the second after TH soldering.

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My though is alcohol and a toothbrush, but I am very open to suggestions.
I'm using a specific spray with its brush but I guess that alcohol and a toothbrush will do.
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Old 11th August 2012, 09:44 PM   #94
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Another build note. For D4, the Vishay 1N4001 diodes that I bought in the US from Mouser had thick leads. These leads are so thick that they have to be forced through the hole in the board and shave off a little material from the leads along the way.

The next time boards are made, it would be nice if the hole in the board were slightly larger diameter. I suspect that common components like the 1N4001 have a variety of variables like this.

Jac
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Old 11th August 2012, 09:49 PM   #95
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A little more on the D4 leads.

If you get the same parts as I did, the hole fit will be tight enough that solder won't flow into the hole. I wanted to be sure that I didn't damage the continuity between the top and bottom of the board by scrapping off some of the hole plating, so I soldered the leads on both top and bottom. Thanks to Dario, there are nice solder pads on both sides.

Jac
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Old 11th August 2012, 11:49 PM   #96
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Quote:
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For D4, the Vishay 1N4001 diodes that I bought in the US from Mouser had thick leads. These leads are so thick that they have to be forced through the hole in the board and shave off a little material from the leads along the way.
Hi Jac,

yes diodes' holes are a bit too much tight.

For a more confortable fit leads must be bent with care so that the distance between them is exactly the same of holes.

Quote:
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If you get the same parts as I did, the hole fit will be tight enough that solder won't flow into the hole. I wanted to be sure that I didn't damage the continuity between the top and bottom of the board by scrapping off some of the hole plating, so I soldered the leads on both top and bottom.
This is not necessary, the hole plating is strong...if you have doubts simply measure continuity with the multimeter.

Soldering on both sides will result in a much more difficult to remove component in case you need to do some repair job.

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The next time boards are made, it would be nice if the hole in the board were slightly larger diameter.
Yes, I've updated Eagle files after the first build on green boards.
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Old 12th August 2012, 03:06 AM   #97
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Yesterday, I started soldering to board (Thanks Dario for the excellent built of the board and help with the smd parts). I swore that those little smd buggers are alive. They just love to jump like ticks. I got lucky twice with the help of my kids to look for it (They jump out as soon as I open up the packgaging carefully). Looking forward to finish at least a channel by next week.
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Old 12th August 2012, 03:14 AM   #98
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You need a table lamp It is a good idea to have onw while working with SMD components. Also, open them close to the PCB, they won't start jumping. When you catch them, use a couple of tweezers, not only one
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Old 12th August 2012, 09:04 AM   #99
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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It also helps to do as much of the small stuff as possible in the middle of the bench or table. Don't work near the edege. The reach may be a little uncomfortable - but is helps save the eyes and the knees.
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Last edited by bcmbob; 12th August 2012 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 12th August 2012, 11:27 AM   #100
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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I think the leads on the 1n400x are thick (consistently thick between manufacturers) is that much of the dissipation is through the leads to the PCB pads, then on to the PCB.
The surface of the diode is a bit small to dissipate much heat by convection.
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