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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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The problem with the heatsinks I used, and most other heatpipe heatsinks is that it is quite difficult to try to fasten these down to your chassis. Regular aluminum slab type heatsinks can be bolted down to your chassis pretty easily. Not so much for the heatpipes.
I am using 2 fans actually, just not directly on it. If it works correctly, the air should pass right through them. Heat-wise...they do get quite warm, however...the chips themselves stay cool. I wouldn't say they ever get "hot" to make you pull back your hand really quick. I used these: Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER RR-H101-22FK-RA 80mm Long life sleeve bearing CPU Cooler ...except I got it for like $12 I believe. And for the other one: Newegg.com - ZALMAN CNPS5X Performa 92mm FSB (Fluid Shield Bearing) Powerful Cooling Performance CPU Cooler Again, you're going to have to find a way to attach these a.) to the chip and b.) to your chassis. Luckily I have a drill press because I had to drill a hole for a bolt right in between the two heatpipes with about 2mm of tolerance or else you'll bust the heatpipes, making them ineffective. For the other one, there are no bolts keeping it tight. I made a little adjustable jig for that. But...it might be a pain in the butt if you're not interested. I don't think the P4 ones will be all that much better than regular heatsinks unless they have heatpipes or a really efficient fin design. Thanks for the kind words. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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Hi there
Quote:
Nice set up you have there. I appreciate your finding it 'difficult' with wanting to add little extras I am building my first amp with a pair of 3876 IC's and little additions like headphone and multiple inputs are in my sights to. Well worth the effort though as I'm sure you have found for yourself. Nicely done that man!regards Foo
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Windows Vista Sir? No thanks. I'd rather shove wasps up my &*^$! |
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Quote:
It took me about a year of off and on work to finish this amp. Seriously, what looks like a "weekend project" can be much much more strenuous than you think. A lot of things to consider...well..if you want to do it right. I actually only have a single RCA input, however, you can use the switch on the left front panel to switch outputs to either the headphone amp or power amp section. Thanks. |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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The only complaint I really have is that there is a bit of background hiss. Might have something to do that I ran out of my shielded Belden and had to resort to some cheap 24-26AWG twisted pair wire...Perhaps I will fix that in the future if I feel up to it.
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Jackson,michigan
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Thanks,FenderBender11, For the info!
I was looking at those ones as well, But I couldn't find any C/W ratings on them and is why I had asked about the temps. Although at the time of my search I was thinking of a really big Turbo F5 type amp too. Getting them mounted isn't going to be a problem as I am trying to figure out the cost factor of using many lower cost ones to just using a couple of bigger ones like this one that has a rating of .15 C/W, Newegg.com - XIGMATEK Gaia SD1283 120mm Long Life Bearing CPU Cooler bracket included LGA 2011 i7 i5 775 1155 AMD and dual fan push pull compatible Although if you got that one at $12 that is a very good buy! I may consider one of those per LM4780 should work okay since I only have 5 of them for now. I am planning maybe two PA200's using 2 LM4780's per amp. Anyway,You Have A Great Build There !!! Keep on DIYin' !!! jer
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#17 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Quote:
Thanks again. |
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