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Old 11th April 2012, 05:20 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squalor View Post
I also remember Uriah suggesting to you to add caps at the input to keep the LDR powered while the amp turns off. I don't remember the value.
As high as you could I took a pair of big caps from an old PSU. Be aware that they may only be rated at 5v, so they keep a good ratio of size/capacitance. So, I used something like 2x 12.000uF in parallel, and each one was the size of half a cigarrette. Just a thumb rule, take any "big" cap from an old psu/computer/electronics and you're done. Switching PSUs use to have tons of them inside.


[QUOTE=squalor;2981442
This is the first time I built without a printed circuit. I hoped someone could comment on the pic of my solder joints but realize now the pic is too grainy. I will remove 499R and try to post a clearer pic.[/QUOTE]
It may look good, but as you said, picture isn't clear enought to make an opinion.

Best regards,
Regi
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Old 11th April 2012, 06:44 PM   #142
squalor is offline squalor  United States
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A few questions please. Does the Pin1 dot on LM338 correspond to IN on the schematic ? Does the arrow and line on D1 indicate the direction the stripe on the diode goes ?
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Old 12th April 2012, 09:22 AM   #143
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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diode orientation:
The bar on the diode corresponds to the bar on the symbol and also indicates the - sign/side of the diode.
The arrow of the symbol indicates conventional current flow. The bar will be towards -ve for current to flow.
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Old 12th April 2012, 03:20 PM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squalor View Post
Does the arrow and line on D1 indicate the direction the stripe on the diode goes ?
Yes.

Regarding LM3386 pinout, you can check it out on the datasheet, first page:
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm138.pdf
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Old 26th August 2016, 12:58 AM   #145
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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The idea here was to take Buzz's question about mounting the FE parallel to a heat sink. I thought a single HS on the back of a chassis a good and economical possibility with one bend for the floor and front, and a double bend for a sides and top cover. All of these ideas are based on the widest offering from Heatsink USA.

Click the image to open in full size.


Unfortunately. this would require removing several HS fins to accommodate mounting RCA, speaker posts and AC socket.
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Problem is:without a lot of pin bending a transfer block or "L" has to be used. That needs to be placed at the same location as the removed fins
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Click the image to open in full size.


It would be possible to add a rear plate wide enough to allow inputs on either/both sides of the HS, but that would kill the concept of simplicity.
Click the image to open in full size.


Rotating the transfer block or using the "L" would work, but only if side mounted on the chassis.
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Click the image to open in full size.


A double standard FE mounting with boards touching is 0.2" wider than this HS
Click the image to open in full size.


So its back to a more traditional idea. This one is similar to the FE monoblocks I built.
The two HS pieces could be surface mounted or back could have cut out for direct mounting of the LM3886.
Click the image to open in full size.


.....as done with the MBs.
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This is the design I might try... as it retains the simplicity of only two bends on two pieces of stock aluminum.
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Here is the two unit concept mentioned earlier.
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Might as well use a standard stock case and perpendicular mounting like Dario and others have.
Click the image to open in full size.

So, this was an enjoyable experiment - but no Gold Medal
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