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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Hello,
I'm retrofitting a pair of LM3875's into a 1970's Realistic STA-77 amp. The amplifier power supply uses a center tapped power supply at 60v. Is this too much for the IC? I have been told that this is too much, but the datasheet states that it can take 85 volts. The power reads 60------0------60 |-------| 30v If it's too high, could I just use the center tap to half the voltage? Thanks, |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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read the datasheet again !!!!!
__________________
regards Andrew T. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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You mention a 60V power supply. How is this measured? I can think of 4 possibilities, only one of which would work well.
A few more details would make it easier to identify what you are trying to do, so that your question can be accurately answered. To summarize, the LM3875 is really designed for a dual-rail DC power supply. The power supply rails should be equal but opposite voltages, with the TOTAL voltage between them being between 20V DC (slightly pointless) and 84V DC (pushing things WAY too hard). Really, you should read the datasheet at http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM3875.pdfand determine your supply voltage based upon your desired output wattage and your speaker impedance. Good luck! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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The STA-77 is rated 16 watts per channel into 8 Ohms. So the output from the DC side of the supply is probably more like 30-0-30 with light or no load. If the original power amp section is still working, I wouldn't bother changing it out for IC's. The ICs might get you slightly more output power that is not really noticeable. If the original amp is not functioning, I'd be more inclined to repair it.
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Quote:
The final end was burned out, that is why I'm attempting to repair it using the chipamp. The original amp used the 2SD313 Transistor, the datasheet can be found here: http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...NGS/2SD313.pdf It states 60 volts as well, so I think that this is giving out 60 volts... I went ahead and hooked it up, it ran for awhile and the chips didn't seem to get too hot, except one channel was around 10X louder than the other. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
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The LM3875 can operate up to 94V + to - ie + 47V, However, it is recommended to keep the rails a bit lower than that at + 35V.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
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Yep, but read the Datasheet. Above +/- 35V the device runs into protection mode too easilly.
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi Katie or her Dad,
just in case my memory is playing tricks with me, I downloaded a new copy of the 3875 datasheet direct from National. I have had a read through reminding me of many features that National draw our attention to. I cannot find the reference to Quote:
Could you highlight which paragraph and/or which diagram you are referring to that imparts this information?
__________________
regards Andrew T. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Parisian suburbs
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Depending of the driver...
I find this diagram very important as it explains how you have to chose your supply voltage according to your driver. Or, in the case of nige838, how to adapt the driver : insert a resistor at the output of the amp (~2 ohm or more) if your driver lowest impedance is less than 8 ohms... but 42V seems really out of range
Last edited by Leglandu; 29th November 2011 at 12:41 PM. |
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