|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#11 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Belgium
|
Quote:
2.2uF, 10k ==> 7Hz. Have a look at the group delay. |
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Brantford, ON
|
My opinion is that I would not epoxy anything to the substrate because it needs thermal contraction and expansion and the epoxy will hinder it....if you must place the cap there then I suggest a high heat silicone but even then I would be reluctant because that also hinders the natural induction of the die substrate to the metal tab
DIRTŪ |
|
|
|
#13 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Bristol
|
Thanks for the reply Joe, OK a couple of things, the parts are glued with CA and can break apart very easily. The P2P wiring should hold all componants in place, the glue is just for a little bit more mechanical reinforcement. So any thermal expansion or contraction should still be able to take place.
The other thing is that the IC is the TF insulated version Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
#14 |
|
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
|
Ok, I didn't exactly understand you, now I do. A plastic capacitors can take rather high temperature but I think it's not so wise to glue an electrolthic capacitors on top of a hot surface. Try at least mount it so it is as cool as possible. Every capacitors get worse when it's hot, no parameter gets better.
Think of this: 85 deg C = 3000 hours 60 deg C = 30000 hours (roughly) 40 deg C = a decade at least I recoemmend that you use a glue which is somewhat soft, not hard epoxy. BTW: 2.2 uF as input coupling capacitor is OK.
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me Tube Buffered Gainclone in work |Thread |
|
|
|
#15 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
|
Quote:
I repaired so many TVīs with just a hairdryer. Heat the suspicious cap with the dryer, capacitance rises to original value and the switching supply starts working again. Then cool it down again to be sure itīs that cap and put a new one in. But donīt get me wrong here! We donīt want to heat our caps permamently. Cheers Jens |
|
|
|
|
#16 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Bristol
|
Thanks for the replies guys.
A pic to clear things up: |
|
|
|
#17 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
|
I wouldnīt put it all "above" the chip.
It can get so hot your foil caps probably melt or get slightly brown on the sides and probably also have a failure one day. Electrolytics dry out relatively fast but if you mount your heatsink vertical I think itīs OK for those. Thatīs one I like. Cheers Jens |
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| KRK V88 Over heating problem | Tom7227 | Chip Amps | 3 | 9th August 2008 01:49 AM |
| Rectify AC to DC for heating | woodturner-fran | Tubes / Valves | 6 | 11th February 2007 09:49 AM |
| heating | kathodyne | Tubes / Valves | 3 | 2nd September 2005 12:49 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |