I temporarily plugged in the dual coil driver and noticed that the amp easily handles the load and gets a lot louder wired in series. It seems to run hotter though and I have no idea what that means. Maybe the drivers are absorbing less of the energy in the total system?
The speakers seem to disappear when wired in series and it is like listening to a thick wall of sound in front of you. Even though there are no rear speakers it sounds like some of the sounds are coming from behind me. =0) It's amazing what can be done with 4 months and some thrift store speakers.
Total cost? $60.00 for two amps, 1 Harmon Kardon sub, 8 ohm Sherwood mains and a Sherwood dual coil midrange. Not bad if you asked me. Sounds amazing for $60.00 too!
So is it okay to do what I wanted and run a series? Are you talking about a second opinion on the coil and resistor, or Pico's whole post? I don't want a cap or coil, these are free air/open baffle drivers I made with no crossovers because open baffle speakers don't need to electronically eliminate low frequencies and it would be a waste of time to engineer a crossover that wouldn't actually do much of anything.
Do dual voice coil speakers act electronically like two separate speakers? I've never bothered with one before because they seem too complicated from a teach-yourself perspective.
I have a 5 inch basket that has a place to add more wires. Can a second coil be wrapped around the first coil with something between if I cut the magnet and basket to make room for it? Maybe there will already be enough room!?!
I was more concerned about the amp having both the left and right summed together in a dual voice coil sub.
If the sub is wired in series you would actually be increasing the ohms. +-+-
Now maybe you mean parallel where + is hooked to + and - to -.
If you only got $60 into it, I guess it's not the end of the world if something happens.
If the sub is wired in series you would actually be increasing the ohms. +-+-
Now maybe you mean parallel where + is hooked to + and - to -.
If you only got $60 into it, I guess it's not the end of the world if something happens.
Hi ,
I did also smell the tricky connection between amps & speakers
There must be something going on between those 'guys'
The reason why I was doubtful is from last year , when someone
replied at my question why of one subwoofer and two satellites from a stereo amp , and he said that the type of amplifier , a class D model ...you know
, allowed to do that
- probably a summation signal ........,
-
I was also uncertain because of the word 'serial' , because if you can connect a DVC in stereo mode , it would be also possible to put a mid in series with each coil ,thus a regular 1st order series crossover to make each driver work better.
I did also smell the tricky connection between amps & speakers
There must be something going on between those 'guys'
The reason why I was doubtful is from last year , when someone
replied at my question why of one subwoofer and two satellites from a stereo amp , and he said that the type of amplifier , a class D model ...you know
, allowed to do that- probably a summation signal ........,
-I was also uncertain because of the word 'serial' , because if you can connect a DVC in stereo mode , it would be also possible to put a mid in series with each coil ,thus a regular 1st order series crossover to make each driver work better.
I, too, am confused by the OP's question. However, when I read that he got a big increase in volume when wiring in series, my first thought was that he had the polarity reversed when wiring in parallel.
Regardless of the OP's question, I strongly recommend sending one channel through each coil, and make sure the polarities match. This was very common 20 years ago before the price of power amps dropped, and people wanted to drive "satellite" speakers and a single DVC sub with a single 2-channel amp.
Whatever you do, don't connect the positives or the negatives on your amp together. It's unlikely your amp is designed to do this. Just because you haven't fried it yet, doesn't mean it won't fry eventually.
Perhaps the OP could post a picture.
Regardless of the OP's question, I strongly recommend sending one channel through each coil, and make sure the polarities match. This was very common 20 years ago before the price of power amps dropped, and people wanted to drive "satellite" speakers and a single DVC sub with a single 2-channel amp.
Whatever you do, don't connect the positives or the negatives on your amp together. It's unlikely your amp is designed to do this. Just because you haven't fried it yet, doesn't mean it won't fry eventually.
Perhaps the OP could post a picture.
With a MONO amp you might be able to get both amp outputs "in-phase" and then it would work.
If the two amp outputs are not the same then NO.
Simple anaolgy. Two girls want to play skipping. If one is at one end of the rope and the other is at the other end. If they are "in-phase" (playing together) it works and the rope skips higher but in-phase. If the two girls are listening to different music - all hell breaks loose.
If the two amp outputs are not the same then NO.
Simple anaolgy. Two girls want to play skipping. If one is at one end of the rope and the other is at the other end. If they are "in-phase" (playing together) it works and the rope skips higher but in-phase. If the two girls are listening to different music - all hell breaks loose.
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