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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Hello all,
I just completed my first gainclone. I gutted the main amplifiers on a old realistic stereo and implemented 2 LM3875s. I have a problem where when I turn the stereo off, it makes a POP and the speaker cone moves A LOT. I'm running it a 55 volts, using this schematic but instead of 5600uf caps on the + and -, I'm using 10000uf caps... Why is the amplifier doing this? What can I do to fix the problem? Thanks |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA
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What schematic?
Mike |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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The schematic you have is too simplified! Unfortunately, National encourages this by a not so well written data sheet...but if you're going to have something stable, it must be a lot closer to Figure 2...Output LR network, Zobel network, compensating caps on the feedback to shape the loopgain, small bypass caps across the rails as well as the big ones...
Your design is marginally stable, so just the noise from the interruption of the AC supply at turn off is amplified horrendously, overdriving the amp, and making a huge pop at the output. There was a similar thread about a similar problem a while ago, but I haven't tried to search for it. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Los Angeles
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There is no ground reference path on the '+' input of the amp AND the gain is 30 dB down to DC. National says the capacitor is optional but it's very good to include it. There is no harm increasing the value over the 22uF shown. It just moves the low end -3dB frequency lower.
G² |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA
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That schematic is terrible, the parts that National calls "optional" really aren't. This is what I'd recommend you build to get the most reliable and best performance.
30X AMP-2.JPG Mike |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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I would ALWAYS recommend that Input RF attenuation be added to Michael's example schematic.
__________________
regards Andrew T. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Electrostal, Moscow region
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55 volts is too much
Quote:
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http://mymegahobby.jimdo.com/ |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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55Vdc is just perfect for a 3875.
It can be single polarity supply 0Vdc to +55Vdc, or 0Vdc to -55Vdc, or dual polarity supply, +27.5Vdc, 0Vdc -27.5Vdc, or dual polarity with the centre voltage not at 0Vdc, eg. +35Vdc, 7.5Vdc, 20Vdc. It can even have the centre voltage not at the arithmetic mean between the two supply polarities.
__________________
regards Andrew T. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Electrostal, Moscow region
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Quote:
__________________
http://mymegahobby.jimdo.com/ |
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