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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Berkeley, California
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Well, here it is...my first DIY audio project. It's a gainclone. I'll put more info up later and more pics. For the mean time, I think it sounds great. I had an Onkyo TX8211 and this sounds MUCH better than it. It fits in perfectly with my college dorm room. Very compact...about 13x10x3. More info coming soon.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Portland, OR
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What is that you used for the chassis?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Looks good! I would like to see pictures of the inside too
Oh, and I have 8211 receiver also.
__________________
left lane is for passing, slower traffic keep right please. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Looks great, congrats!
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Berkeley, California
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The casis is all aluminum. My friend and I desinged the case in SolidWorks and then ordered sheet aluminum from www.onlinemetals.com. We drilled/tapped everything by hand but had the front and top pannels brushed using a TimeSaver machine. All the aluminum was then clear anodized. As soon as I can get my hands on a digital camera again, I'll post more pics. The schematic I used is attached.
![]() I made a PCB using a cad program and press n' peel blue. I can upload artwork if anyone is interested. On the psu, I used a pretty standard setup except that I used 6000 uF per DC rail. I'll post a parts list and everything as soon as I can. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Portland, OR
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Quote:
Also, how'd you do the junction between the top and the sides? Is that two separate pieces, or did you run a single piece through a bending brake, or..? |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Berkeley, California
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onlinemetals.com was pretty good for what I wanted. I knew I was going to use TimeSaver 220 on the front and top panels so any blemishes would be removed. That being said, there were certainly a few blemishes/scratches/burrs to begin with. My goal was to create everything my self on the chassis including the feet and knobs. The feet were made by ordering round rod from them and brushing them by hand. They turned out very nicely but it took quite a bit of time to smooth them out and make them all the same height. The tolerance of onlinmentals.com is not to great. "+1/8 inch -0" is what they say but I had a few pieces of rod that were more like +.2 inch. I don't recall having anything cut to small. If you're expecting CNC milled and cut aluminum, this is not the place to go. They deliver good quality, stock, sheet aluminum cut with a sheering machine. I don't recommend the idea of using their round rod for anything too cosmetic because the rod was really the stuff in the worst condition...several burrs and scratches. Now, when I asked for my cassis to be clear anodized, I also asked for a heavy etch which made a very nice finish and took care of several of the scratches. As a result, there are NO scratches/blemishes on the outside of the case, but on the inside there are a few minor ones...that doesn't bother me so much so for me, onlinemetals.com is great. All in all the cassis you see in the pics (and I promise more) cost $30 plus a lot of time! It's tough to explain how the whole thing sticks together so I'll wait to do so until the guy next door lets me borrow his camera.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
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That is simply beutiful! And, thats exactly the way I want mine to look when I build it. PLease post internal pics soon! Also, where did you get the heatsink?
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Berkeley, California
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Thanks a lot for the kind post JCoffey! I got the heatsink from Accel Thermal. You can find them at http://www.accelthermal.com/. I got a 3 inch piece of the 96-2 model...for free...hehe. I'm a college student so they were kind enough to send me sample stock. I think the regular price is something like $50 for it, but they didn't really seem to have any set prices. Other places I looked for heatsinks included thermalflo.com and avvid. The guys at Accel were by far the most helpful. I'm pretty sure that this heatsink can dissipate more than 100 watts no problem. I'm using two LM3875TF chips on it and I don't EVER feel the sink get warm. I've left my amp on for a few days now and I've checked every time I come in my room and it's always at constant room temp. As promised...the pics.
This is the back side (obviously) with that massive heatsink. I've got 4 inputs and two outputs (again, obviously)
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Berkeley, California
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