An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
i bet he didn't wire his volume pot up backwards though.
i plugged my guitar straight into it and sound actually came out. didnt sound bad either. just really quiet.
if i use my digitech guitar modeler thing as a pre its hum pretty loud.
needs blocking cap?
oh yeah, i was testing it with a 4ohm speaker and it started turning itself off cos of heat after a while -will it heat up less when its driving 8ohms?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
what an ignorant heatsink.
travis said:
Explaination is to be found in Pedja
Gainclone Thread
and at "Pedja Rogic Audio Pages"
The Gainclone Pictures page.
Pedja Gainclone Thread
Pedja's Gainclone Pictures Page
(Mirror at Halojoy WebPortal)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is the original prototype amplifier travis refer to.
halojoy - another original prototype
Hello Travis,
Glad to see this.
As I mentioned before, the “original” amp heats more than I’d like (and I like it completely cool), but during these 5 months thermal protection have never started to work.
If everything is okay thermally while the amp is in idle, try adding more aluminum and provide some air circulation, should be enough. Again, the whole situation shouldn’t be so critical… As I see your “heatsink” is thinner, but you have only one chip inside. What is your PSU voltage?
Higher impedance speaker will draw less current with the given voltage, but sensitivity of the speaker is here more important.
Pedja
Glad to see this.
As I mentioned before, the “original”
amp heats more than I’d like (and I like it completely cool), but during these 5 months thermal protection have never started to work.If everything is okay thermally while the amp is in idle, try adding more aluminum and provide some air circulation, should be enough. Again, the whole situation shouldn’t be so critical… As I see your “heatsink” is thinner, but you have only one chip inside. What is your PSU voltage?
Higher impedance speaker will draw less current with the given voltage, but sensitivity of the speaker is here more important.
Pedja
its not even warm while idle.Pedja said:Hello Travis,
Glad to see this.
As I mentioned before, the “original”
If everything is okay thermally while the amp is in idle, try adding more aluminum and provide some air circulation, should be enough. Again, the whole situation shouldn’t be so critical… As I see your “heatsink” is thinner, but you have only one chip inside. What is your PSU voltage?
Higher impedance speaker will draw less current with the given voltage, but sensitivity of the speaker is here more important.
Pedja
35.3VDC
i have air slots on the bottom. i'm going to cut some in the top as soon as i think of a cool looking design or something.
my speaker's spec sheet says: Sensitivity@1W,1m 97.4dB
i've been testing it into a car subwoofer that isn't in a box. i hope its louder when i'm using a real speaker in a real enclosure.
it doesn't really shut down like i said in first post. it starts making ugly "please stop doing this to me" noises
Great idea!Variac said:
To give the air more possibility to circulate.
and this factor is IMPORTANT.
Because even the largest heatsink
won't cool of much without air-circulation.
And I mean air circulating from outside of encloser
not circulation within the box.
halo - circulates at diyAudio.com
Nice one halojoy and you know what they say Pedja: 'imitation is the sincerest form of flattery'!
Now, if that's not one for the DD gallery, I don't know what is!
If you want in, contact me via the form on DD.
Now, if that's not one for the DD gallery, I don't know what is!
If you want in, contact me via the form on DD.
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