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Old 4th August 2003, 04:19 AM   #1
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Default Bridge construction

No, not drawbridges, or suspension models.

I am talking about the diode kind - specifically with the mur860's that I have ordered.

These, I believe, are the heavy-duty-looking type, shaped like the LM3875, but smaller with two pins.

I know how to wire the bridge electrically, but physically, how is the best way to construct the bridge?

Do I mount them any way special? Are there heat issues? Can I solder the appropriate pins together with the wires and just build it with no add'l structure?

If anyone has a photo of a way in which they did an 860 bridge and they were very pleased with it, please do post.

Thanks,

GND
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Old 4th August 2003, 04:45 AM   #2
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Here you are:

Click the image to open in full size.

schematic:

Click the image to open in full size.

it's made by Peter Daniel the original posting is here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...1921#post61921

Ralph
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Old 4th August 2003, 05:14 AM   #3
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Wow. I dunno if I am up to Peter's level.

Is it really necessary to heatsink all of the diodes? (I am running 25/25/330VA)

Is the hole isolated? If not, is it A or K?

GnD
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Old 4th August 2003, 06:27 AM   #4
Mad_K is offline Mad_K  Norway
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No need to heatsink them in a gainclone. (The pic above is from Peter's AlephX i believe).

Here's a few ideas:

http://diyaudio.com/forums/showthrea...161#post185161

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...244#post170244

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Old 4th August 2003, 07:02 AM   #5
mikelm is offline mikelm  England
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mad_K
No need to heatsink them in a gainclone.

Talking about heatsinking, what material are you using for heat tranfer isolation washers ? It looks like ceramic.

if it is where did you get it from ?

cheers

mike
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Old 4th August 2003, 08:29 AM   #6
Nuuk is offline Nuuk  United Kingdom
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GND - your question is answered (simply and fully I hope) on my GC FAQ page .
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Old 4th August 2003, 11:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mad_K
[B]No need to heatsink them in a gainclone./B]
While testing them, I found out that they do get hot.
I wouldn't use them without a heatsink, even a small one may do.
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Old 4th August 2003, 01:30 PM   #8
Nuuk is offline Nuuk  United Kingdom
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Quote:
While testing them, I found out that they do get hot.
Me again Carlos, I have had my GC monoblocks running continuously for four hours as I am trying to break in my rebuilt Goodmans 201s. When I read your post I went straight over to see if they are hot but they are only very slightly warm and it is very hot here today.

My MUR860's are just glued to a piece of fibreglass.
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Old 4th August 2003, 03:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nuuk

My MUR860's are just glued to a piece of fibreglass.
Without anything they get hot, but it won't burn your fingers.
What you used may be sufficient, as I said, even a small heatsink will do.
I used one of those very small and cheap heatsinks for the 78/79xx regulators for each pair of MUR860s and it works fine.
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Old 4th August 2003, 06:41 PM   #10
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Does anyone know if the tab where you would bolt an 860 to a heatsink is isolated?

If so, just a chunk of perforated aluminum strip would be fine. It could also serve as a structural mount to the chassis...
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