Hello peeps
This is what i want to make.. My first mono amp for PC.. Im not realy new to electronics i alrdy did few DIY projects but this one will be first one based on audio
So.. I wanted to build a simple amp with TDA2050
I have some crap trafo with 14v sec. it is around 30wats i would say...
Here is how it looks
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
So idea is to make everything on one pcb board and put it inside of my pc case , also ill get one fullrange 4ohm speaker to put on one side of my pc case...
I should get from this 20-25 wats? Well power doesnt realy matter coz i want to make this for fun.. not realy for home listening or party...
So all i need is shematic for psu and tda2050 on same board including "grec" (thing that converts acv to dcv im not realy sure how to spell it on english)...
And pcb layout would be good, but i think if this stay simple as it should i can make it on raster board (board with xxxxxxx holes)
Also ill post pictures of projetc progress here so other ppls can see or even build something like this depending on their needs =)
Regards!
This is what i want to make.. My first mono amp for PC.. Im not realy new to electronics i alrdy did few DIY projects but this one will be first one based on audio
So.. I wanted to build a simple amp with TDA2050
I have some crap trafo with 14v sec. it is around 30wats i would say...
Here is how it looks
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
So idea is to make everything on one pcb board and put it inside of my pc case , also ill get one fullrange 4ohm speaker to put on one side of my pc case...
I should get from this 20-25 wats? Well power doesnt realy matter coz i want to make this for fun.. not realy for home listening or party...
So all i need is shematic for psu and tda2050 on same board including "grec" (thing that converts acv to dcv im not realy sure how to spell it on english)...
And pcb layout would be good, but i think if this stay simple as it should i can make it on raster board (board with xxxxxxx holes)
Also ill post pictures of projetc progress here so other ppls can see or even build something like this depending on their needs =)
Regards!
google it.
the datasheet has everything you need.
the "grec" you refer is a diode bridge, you can purchase a 35A capable one for cheap.
No need for a raster board, nor any board at all. Point to point construction is more than suitable for this chip.
14 V single suply may be a problem.
suggestion-> car radio amp chips where ment to work between 9 and 17 volts.
Prehaps Tda1557Q or simular IC would be better suited for your task.
Simpler to build, less external components.
the datasheet has everything you need.
the "grec" you refer is a diode bridge, you can purchase a 35A capable one for cheap.
No need for a raster board, nor any board at all. Point to point construction is more than suitable for this chip.
14 V single suply may be a problem.
suggestion-> car radio amp chips where ment to work between 9 and 17 volts.
Prehaps Tda1557Q or simular IC would be better suited for your task.
Simpler to build, less external components.
Power output is directly related to supply voltage. Your transformer seems to have only two secondary leads, so you have to design the amp for single supply operation (output coupling cap and a voltage divider for the input bias (see datasheet)). I can't tell but the transformer appears to be in the range of 60-80va, so you get around 18 volts with diode bridge drops and some load. With a 4 ohm load, expect about 8 watts of clean power.
To use the chip to its full potential, a dual supply of +/- 20 volts will give you well over 20 watts of clean power.
To use the chip to its full potential, a dual supply of +/- 20 volts will give you well over 20 watts of clean power.
@Arty it is 14 ACV! So it will be around 17-18 when converted to dcv...
Yes datasheet has everything but not the board using diode bridge and i was thinging that maybe someone have it or maybe some beter version of board ...
Anyway i decied to make raster board with single supply circuit.. ill add single diode bridge without any tweeks from trafo to amp...
@Johnr66
I think transformer is not that good as u think it is It weights only 600 grams... so i think it is max 50 wats or even less.. anyway it should be fine for this mini amp...
And btw dont u think i can get more power from this ? I mean data sheet says that i can get 28 wats on 4 ohm load with psu of 18v
Or that is only for split supply?
Regards!
Yes datasheet has everything but not the board using diode bridge and i was thinging that maybe someone have it or maybe some beter version of board ...
Anyway i decied to make raster board with single supply circuit.. ill add single diode bridge without any tweeks from trafo to amp...
@Johnr66
I think transformer is not that good as u think it is
It weights only 600 grams... so i think it is max 50 wats or even less.. anyway it should be fine for this mini amp...And btw dont u think i can get more power from this ? I mean data sheet says that i can get 28 wats on 4 ohm load with psu of 18v
Or that is only for split supply?
Regards!
@Johnr66
I think transformer is not that good as u think it is
And btw dont u think i can get more power from this ? I mean data sheet says that i can get 28 wats on 4 ohm load with psu of 18v
Or that is only for split supply?
Regards!
50 watts is still more than enough for your application. Heck, in a PC, I'd just ditch that thing and bridge two 2050s off one of the PSU's 12 volt rails. In this case you could use that car amp chip.
The datasheet probably says +/- 18 volts meaning a split supply with 36 volts from positive rail to negative rail.
Hmm... Well if i bridge 2 chips i cant use 4 ohm fullrange speaker for car... Well thats not realy problem i can get 8 ohm mid-bass speaker + small tweeter in side of my computer case.. thats not problem it is realy cheap... Can u suggest me what chip will give most power on 18vdc? (in bridged version)
Consider that sound quality isnt realy matter , afterall this is just project for fun...
As long it is simple , im willing to build it...
Thanks john!
Regards!
Consider that sound quality isnt realy matter , afterall this is just project for fun...
As long it is simple , im willing to build it...
Thanks john!
Regards!
On second though, a lot of power on the speaker will cause vibrations on a computer case and sound like crap. It will also vibrate your hard drive and other components, I'd rethink this setup if I were you.
t@John
I know that... Those speaker vibrations may be awful .. and i know it can damage my HDD... But as i say i wont use this for home listening or party, i just want to have it in side of my pc , just in case if something goes wrong with my home hi fi system..
After all im willing to do this for fun , and ofc to learn something from this project
So plz would u be polite and suggest me best(strongest) chip for single 18vdc supply?
I wish i had more experience with TDA,LM and chips like these... Otherwise i wouldnt chase u to help me and suggest me about this
Regards!
I know that... Those speaker vibrations may be awful .. and i know it can damage my HDD... But as i say i wont use this for home listening or party, i just want to have it in side of my pc , just in case if something goes wrong with my home hi fi system..
After all im willing to do this for fun , and ofc to learn something from this project
So plz would u be polite and suggest me best(strongest) chip for single 18vdc supply?
I wish i had more experience with TDA,LM and chips like these... Otherwise i wouldnt chase u to help me and suggest me about this
Regards!
yes it is 17-18 volts. a diode or 2 in series with the amp will make sure it ain't too mutch for the mentioned tda1557q chip.
And it is a bridged car amp chip, just what you need.
the diode bridge it self is sold in a package, that has 4 leads.
Sortha like this:
adding a capacitor say.. 6800 uf /25 V paralell with 15pf ceramic should be more than okay for your project, be it made with the tda2050, or the tda 1557q.
I would still choose 1557q for its simplicity (or any of its close relatives).
the power you can expect considering the supply voltage is not that great, at least it looks like it. But 8-10 watts can be louder than you ever need.
tda 1557q has 4 amps inside, and they are bridged to form 2 amps.
The datasheet shows this to you.
and there is no need to use both of these bridged amps, you can run only 1 channel.
so, it is a good one for you.
alternatively, if you add a voltage regulator to your circuit, its dropout voltage will make sure you will not overvolt this chip.
It does indeed fit your powersupply.
http://www.hestore.hu/files/lm338.pdf
this is a 5A voltage regulator.
And is adjustable.
Built it, set to say.. 15-16 volts.
Build the tda1557q according to :
page 8 of this
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/philips/TDA1557Q.pdf
datasheet.
then you can use one channel. it is allready a bridged one.
The datasheet shows this to you.
and there is no need to use both of these bridged amps, you can run only 1 channel.
so, it is a good one for you.
alternatively, if you add a voltage regulator to your circuit, its dropout voltage will make sure you will not overvolt this chip.
It does indeed fit your powersupply.
http://www.hestore.hu/files/lm338.pdf
this is a 5A voltage regulator.
And is adjustable.
Built it, set to say.. 15-16 volts.
Build the tda1557q according to :
page 8 of this
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/philips/TDA1557Q.pdf
datasheet.
then you can use one channel. it is allready a bridged one.
Ye , good point.. No need for 2nd speaker if one is more then fine...
Im gona build voltage regultor same as this one here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U06uzK0dKas
It should do the job
Gonna order the parts tomorow morning...
Hope ill get them in 2-3 days so i can start waisting some time soldering elements on raster board =)
Ill post my progress here
Regards!
Im gona build voltage regultor same as this one here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U06uzK0dKas
It should do the job
Gonna order the parts tomorow morning...
Hope ill get them in 2-3 days so i can start waisting some time soldering elements on raster board =)
Ill post my progress here
Regards!
i will be intrested.
the ic will need a heatsink, just like the regulator.
salvaged cpu heatsinks are superior for this.
if you can not drill a hole on them then try to salvage a dead computer powersuply.
You will find heatsinks in them, with pre-made holes. Absolutely nice
I will be intrested to see what you manage.
Allso, you should order a potenciometer for amp volume controll.
something at 50 K ohm (or so) will do just fine.
the ic will need a heatsink, just like the regulator.
salvaged cpu heatsinks are superior for this.
if you can not drill a hole on them then try to salvage a dead computer powersuply.
You will find heatsinks in them, with pre-made holes. Absolutely nice
I will be intrested to see what you manage.
Allso, you should order a potenciometer for amp volume controll.
something at 50 K ohm (or so) will do just fine.
Ye ofc... But there we go , first problem alrdy
I cant find lm338 here on Serbian market.. I found only one that lookls like hi quality one.. and it is not realy cheap.. around 9-10 euros :S
I dont want to have problems with heat so im not even thinking about voltage regulator of 3A... Going to look around for some other ways to decerese voltage for 3 volts... Or maybe a supplier of lm338 with some reasonable price...
I cant find lm338 here on Serbian market.. I found only one that lookls like hi quality one.. and it is not realy cheap.. around 9-10 euros :S
I dont want to have problems with heat so im not even thinking about voltage regulator of 3A... Going to look around for some other ways to decerese voltage for 3 volts... Or maybe a supplier of lm338 with some reasonable price...
You are going to use only 1 channel, so i would think a 3a regulator will do fine.
Not to mention your load will be 8 ohms.
If you do consider this still a problem, then look for rectifier diodes in the range of 5A or more. Connect them in series, and voila. You get a voltage drop on eatch diode you connect.
You sayd You have 14 VAC transformator.
So suposedly it should be something like
(14*1,4) - 1,4 = approx 18 volts.
way too close to the safe limit.
Connect 2 diodes, and you drop the voltage to approx between 16-17 volts.
Not adjustable, but will work just fine, and its cheap too.
Not to mention your load will be 8 ohms.
If you do consider this still a problem, then look for rectifier diodes in the range of 5A or more. Connect them in series, and voila. You get a voltage drop on eatch diode you connect.
You sayd You have 14 VAC transformator.
So suposedly it should be something like
(14*1,4) - 1,4 = approx 18 volts.
way too close to the safe limit.
Connect 2 diodes, and you drop the voltage to approx between 16-17 volts.
Not adjustable, but will work just fine, and its cheap too.
High Current Voltage Regulation - Electric Circuit
this article can provide you with a lot of usefull info too, if you are intrested in getting a high current regulator, despite its not available in your country.
If you can link the site where you want to order parts, i might be able to help you pick things that worth a shot.
You could paralell connect 2 of the 3A regulators if you like, with ballast ressitors.
this article can provide you with a lot of usefull info too, if you are intrested in getting a high current regulator, despite its not available in your country.
If you can link the site where you want to order parts, i might be able to help you pick things that worth a shot.
You could paralell connect 2 of the 3A regulators if you like, with ballast ressitors.
Thanks Arty for ur suggestions!
I decied to do it with
DIODE P 600 , 1000V 6A
Gonna buy 6 of those... WIll be enough to drop voltage for 2 volts
Tell me plz where i have to put those diodes? After bridge rectifier on + rail or on both(+ and -)?
For start ill use all diodes in series, then gona remove 1 by 1 untill i got around 16vdc on the end of the circuit.
Regards!
I decied to do it with
DIODE P 600 , 1000V 6A
Gonna buy 6 of those... WIll be enough to drop voltage for 2 volts
Tell me plz where i have to put those diodes? After bridge rectifier on + rail or on both(+ and -)?
For start ill use all diodes in series, then gona remove 1 by 1 untill i got around 16vdc on the end of the circuit.
Regards!
After bridge rectifier on + railis where you put them.
Supposedly You should start with 3 diodes, that should be a safe approach.
I'mn glad i was able to help, please keep this thread updated
Despite its datasheet these TDA chips do not sound as bad as one may think.
Surely the 2050 or one of the LM series is superior, but if you find an ordinary car radio acceptible then this will allso be okay. Afterall, it WAS developt for that use.
Maybe one day You will run it as a stand alone amplifier. It is quite okay to run a smaller (isobaric prehaps) subwoofer with this amplifier.
It actualy does have good instantenious current ability, it would not be a problem for it to handle such loads.
Actualy my amp is based on tda1557q too. While my "design" is verrrry crude i em quite statisfied with it sofar.
Supposedly You should start with 3 diodes, that should be a safe approach.
I'mn glad i was able to help, please keep this thread updated
Despite its datasheet these TDA chips do not sound as bad as one may think.
Surely the 2050 or one of the LM series is superior, but if you find an ordinary car radio acceptible then this will allso be okay. Afterall, it WAS developt for that use.
Maybe one day You will run it as a stand alone amplifier. It is quite okay to run a smaller (isobaric prehaps) subwoofer with this amplifier.
It actualy does have good instantenious current ability, it would not be a problem for it to handle such loads.
Actualy my amp is based on tda1557q too. While my "design" is verrrry crude i em quite statisfied with it sofar.
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