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Old 25th July 2003, 03:56 AM   #11
ronc is offline ronc  United States
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I am using battery power, P/S caps are directly connected to the pins,6.8 uf.
ron
Any idea where to pick up gloss black acrylic or lexan?
thanks
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Old 25th July 2003, 04:52 AM   #12
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I wasn't joking about using maple. Why I think about using that wood?

First of all, to me, maple looks nicer than oak, is harder and since my brother in law is in hardwood floor business, I know the wood a bit.

Then, I was reading some reviews in magazines and it was always commented how good maple is for stands (best example Pagode stands). Also, there must be a reason Sonus Faber is using maple for their speakers. I believe each type of wood has it's sonic signature and this can be heard.

Last thing, I just finished my speakers, where I used solid maple for all panels and I'm amazed with a sound.

I buy acrylic from a local supplier. If you don't have any other source available, I might buy for you, if you interested. You may try this thread too: good place to buy acrylic for DIY TT
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Old 25th July 2003, 06:51 AM   #13
Bricolo is offline Bricolo  France
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Quote:
Originally posted by ron clarke
My latest cab design will have pot positioned around .5 inches from pin#8. The cab is 8x5x3" (golden ratio)and the H/S s are mounted vertical in silicone filled groves.The only drawback i can see at this time is the 3" length from the input to the channel selector then another .5" to the pot(which is the grounded version we have discussed).I have finally decided on the cab being solid oak .5" thk.as i cannot find any acrylic or lexan in the color(gloss black) that i want.
And YES Nuuk the pot pins will be attached LOL.Thanks for that tip man, i never thought about losing ground.
ron
Do the golden ratios add something for an amplifier case?
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Old 25th July 2003, 07:20 AM   #14
Nuuk is offline Nuuk  United Kingdom
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Quote:
So my answer is that it will probably be detectable if you use a wire to connect potentiometer or place it very close to the chip. It's not also that hard to do as you can use extention shaft.
Hi Peter, my question arose after reading the review of your amp and looking closely at the design. I presume that close proximity of the volume control to the chip is the reason for using seperate volume controls for both channels, as well as keeping it all dual mono.

I have a design on paper for each channel to have it's own stepped attenuator with each attenuator next to the chip BUT with a single volume control! It's not particularly difficult to build (especially for somebody with your skills) and seems to provide the optimum solution.

As regards the 'which type of wood sounds best' issue, I am sitting on the (balsa wood) fence.

Everything in an amplifier is connected in some way and is therefore affected by the total mass with its properties such as density and resonance.

The case is probably the biggest mass and will therefore (arguably) have the largest affect. So we can't dismiss the idea that the wood used for the case will have some affect on the sound of the amp but we should remember also that the circuit design, it's implementation and the component quality should (will) have a much larger influence, arguably enough to possibly swamp the effect of the case material.

Do you guys think that I would make a good politition?
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Old 25th July 2003, 01:56 PM   #15
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I believe that the material used for chassis has at least 25 % effect on the sound. And going with a lowest mass is probably not the best solution either. In my monoblocks the sound was simply unnaceptable, until I made some structural changes. And my acrylic version still doesn't sound as good as all aluminum amp.

If you check Niro amps from Mechanical Research Corporation, Nakamichi takes special care to decouple all the input connections (AC, RCA, binding posts) from the amp's chassis. There must be a definite reason for doing that.

http://216.87.12.168/enf/nirotek/
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Old 25th July 2003, 03:34 PM   #16
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I think that I may have said this before somewhere, but much of the 'black art' of hi-fi building is knowing the difference between damping, coupling and decoupling; particularly knowing when and where to use each technique!

Of course most of us build a project and then want to listen to it, not take it to pieces again and build it in a different case or whatever so this area is probably one of the least (properly) explored areas of DIY hi-fi (or commercial hi-fi for that matter).

I know of some 'proper' research in this area that has thrown up some surprising results but alas, it is not for public broadcast at present
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Old 25th July 2003, 05:22 PM   #17
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If you look at higher priced (ie. greater than 2k$ US amps) you will see greater attention to chassie build and materials.I have heard that about 33% of the final sound comes from the chassie matls. and design.
I still want to try either acrylic or lexan, but will go with a heavier wood first as a test.
ron
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Old 25th July 2003, 05:56 PM   #18
ronc is offline ronc  United States
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Default Golden ratio

As i am primarly a speaker designer and builder i have used the golden ratio many times in my designs.It helps cut down on standing waves in an enclosure.
ron
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Old 25th July 2003, 05:59 PM   #19
Bricolo is offline Bricolo  France
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Default Re: Golden ratio

Quote:
Originally posted by ron clarke
As i am primarly a speaker designer and builder i have used the golden ratio many times in my designs.It helps cut down on standing waves in an enclosure.
ron

how do you calculate golden ratios?
I know the 0.618/1/1.618, but I've seen many others
Is there any algorythm? or rule of thumb?
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Old 25th July 2003, 06:31 PM   #20
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For anybody not believing in the importance of chassis, check this thread: Suggestions for lid material
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