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Old 3rd December 2010, 04:15 PM   #11
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The datasheet recommends a different snubber with 2,2 Ohm and 470 nF instead of the 1 Ohm and 100 nF that come with the kit.
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Old 3rd December 2010, 07:36 PM   #12
eladmi is offline eladmi  Germany
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Thanks for your help guys.

I have finished the soldering. I will stick with the tda2030a on this one. I orderd a second kit 10 days ago though. I will try the TDA2050 on that kit.

This is the result:

Click the image to open in full size.

@ pacificblue:

Are you talking about R17, R18 and C11, C18?

I recieved an updated installion instruction. In this instruction the removal of C11 and C18 is advised. I will attach it to this post.

I also recieved this email from the seller:

Quote:
You can use this kit to build 2 channels OCL or 1 channel BTL circuit.
We recommend use AC dual 9-12V power supply for it. OCL mode output power is 18Wx2, BTL mode output power is 36W.
Instruction:
If you apply OCL connection, you need not install resistor R4, please check the schematics.

If you apply BTL connection, you need not install capacitor C9, signal input from right socket RCA. The positive and negative pole of speaker link to left output socket and right output socket.

TDA2030A’s cooler base and 3 pins are conductive, you need use silicotic film and insulation rubber ring to insulate IC and cooler.

Please pay attention to capacitor and regulator bridge’s polarity. Avoid install them by wrong ones.

After welding, please check it carefully. Before you link to speakers, please use a multimeter’s AC voltage end to test if there is AC output from board’s output end, if not , then you can link the board to the speakers.

Support resistor:
1 ohm: brown black black silver brown
680 ohm: blue gray black black brown
22K: red red black red brown
I am not really sure what to do now.

regards

eladmi
Attached Files
File Type: zip TDA2030A 2.1 instruction.doc.zip (217.7 KB, 681 views)
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Old 4th December 2010, 06:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eladmi View Post
Are you talking about R17, R18 and C11, C18?
R1, R2, R17, R18 are 1 Ohm which is the correct value for the TDA2030A, while the datasheet recommends 2,2 Ohms for the TDA2050.
C3, C4, C13, C14 are 100 nF. The TDA2030A should have 220 nF, the TDA2050 470 nF.

Of course we have to assume that the manufacturer has done his own tests to verify the amps performance and the values he chose work fine with the TDA2030A. When you replace it with the TDA2050, the datasheet values are the safer bet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eladmi View Post
I recieved an updated installion instruction. In this instruction the removal of C11 and C18 is advised. I will attach it to this post.

I also recieved this email from the seller:



I am not really sure what to do now.
It is a bit tedious to find out what those two capacitors do without a complete and decently labeled schematic. If the manufacturer recommends it, skip them. He will have his reasons.

What that e-mail tells you, is that you can use that board not only as 2.1 amplifier with two single ended and one BTL output, but also as 2.0 (or 0.2) with 2 BTL outputs.
If you use it as intended in 2.1 mode, skip R4. If you use it as 2.0, skip C9.

It also repeats what is in the instructions. The heatsink tab of the TDA is live at V-. So you have to electrically isolate it with isolation washers from the heatsink, if that is either grounded (e. g. when screwed to a metal case) or if it is possible to touch it (e. g. when it sticks out from the case).
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Old 4th December 2010, 09:09 AM   #14
eladmi is offline eladmi  Germany
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Thanks pacificblue

Quote:
Originally Posted by pacificblue View Post

Of course we have to assume that the manufacturer has done his own tests to verify the amps performance and the values he chose work fine with the TDA2030A. When you replace it with the TDA2050, the datasheet values are the safer bet.



It is a bit tedious to find out what those two capacitors do without a complete and decently labeled schematic. If the manufacturer recommends it, skip them. He will have his reasons.

What that e-mail tells you, is that you can use that board not only as 2.1 amplifier with two single ended and one BTL output, but also as 2.0 (or 0.2) with 2 BTL outputs.
If you use it as intended in 2.1 mode, skip R4. If you use it as 2.0, skip C9.

It also repeats what is in the instructions. The heatsink tab of the TDA is live at V-. So you have to electrically isolate it with isolation washers from the heatsink, if that is either grounded (e. g. when screwed to a metal case) or if it is possible to touch it (e. g. when it sticks out from the case).
From what I have read. The TDA2050 chips do not nee the isolation between the chip and the heat sink. I will switch the amp on this weekend.

regards

eladmi
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Old 4th December 2010, 09:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eladmi View Post
From what I have read. The TDA2050 chips do not nee the isolation between the chip and the heat sink. I will switch the amp on this weekend.

regards

eladmi
The metal tab of the TDA2050 is connected to pin 3 (-Vs);

http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...ics/mXyuqt.pdf

Therefore is SHOULD be isolated from the heatsink.

Sandy
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Old 11th December 2010, 08:13 PM   #16
eladmi is offline eladmi  Germany
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I hooked up the the amp today. It is working as expected, but getting very hot. I am thinking about swapping the tda2050 in. Do you guys think the heatsink is large enough?

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Should I give the TDA2050s a shot?

Thanks

eladmi
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Old 12th December 2010, 04:55 AM   #17
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The TDA2050 does not make a difference with regards to heat dissipation. It only gives you some more current headroom.

If overheat does not damage the amp or trip the built-in thermal shut-down, then the heatsink is big enough. You will find out next summer.
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Old 3rd February 2011, 09:05 PM   #18
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Hi,

What do you think of this amp? I'm looking for a small and inexpensive amp for a desktop system.

bearberry
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Old 4th February 2011, 03:02 PM   #19
eladmi is offline eladmi  Germany
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The sound quality is okay, but the unit gets pretty hot. I would go for a class d amp like the Lepai LP-2020.

eladmi
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Old 5th February 2011, 12:41 PM   #20
johnr66 is offline johnr66  United States
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The horizontal fins don't aid in convective cooling very well. How hot is hot? If it is just getting too hot to touch, it may be okay, but if it is going beyond that, you may need better cooling. The actual temp measurement on the tab of the IC is ideal to see if you are safe.
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