Thank you for clearing that up for me Redshift.
I did test with the power running through it as well but with the voltage set to 700v ~ and not resistance but as you probably already know from my previous reply I didn't get any reading from it.
From the continuity test results that I got from testing the primaries from behind the sheaths of the power switch--->fuse--->power cable I'm very lost now as I do get a resistance reading.
Any advice as to what may be the problem now that the switch has proven ok? I was hoping that Peter was able to flick me his mates contact details so I can get some local assistance from him. However, it looks like Peter may be held up on something and hasn't replied to any of my request yet.
Still hopefull, that I can get this issue sorted out but all I have now is just hopes (sigh).
I did test with the power running through it as well but with the voltage set to 700v ~ and not resistance but as you probably already know from my previous reply I didn't get any reading from it.
From the continuity test results that I got from testing the primaries from behind the sheaths of the power switch--->fuse--->power cable I'm very lost now as I do get a resistance reading.
Any advice as to what may be the problem now that the switch has proven ok? I was hoping that Peter was able to flick me his mates contact details so I can get some local assistance from him. However, it looks like Peter may be held up on something and hasn't replied to any of my request yet.
Still hopefull, that I can get this issue sorted out but all I have now is just hopes (sigh).
I did actually try probing the two prongs at the end of the power cable but that didn't give me any continuity (not with the power switch in the on or off postition). So far I haven't been able to get to the actual soldering behind the power cable as it is glued on to the casing with a huge wad of glue. I will use the hair dryer to remove the gule and then cut the sheats from the cable to reveal both connections.
I will also take some photos or even make a quick little video while doing this and post it here to see if that will assist you guys in helping me resolve this issue.
Will do this tonight after work, so please stay posted.
UPDATE: IT's FIXED!!!!!!
I Finally managed to fix it!
To cut a long story short, after cutting the sheaths to the power cable fuse and switch I was then able to test continuity for all three components.
It turns out the the problem was the metal bit which has the wire soldered onto at the back of the fuse holder was pushed out so there was no power connection getting through. I tested all three components and came to the conclusion that it was the fuse holder cause that was the only thing which I wasn't getting continuity from. I pushed the metal pin back in and after doing so there was continuity. I then electrical taped everything back up and rescrewed half the screws back in just in case I had to undo them again if I was wrong and Voila......WE HAVE POWER.
Even though the power was running through to it I knew I wasn't exactly at home base yet cause there still could be other things that could go wrong. I really excitedly and quickly reconnected everything and tested the speakers and yes everything was working 100% without any problems.
I really must say a very massive thank you to Redshift, Baylis, Unique and all others who have contributed their extremely valuable advice which put an end to a 3 week long many sleepless nights ordeal.
THANK YOU..........THANK YOU.......THANK YOU.
I will be more than happy to provide my assistance to any other people that may be experiencing the same problem with their Z680's. Just PM me and I will try to answer as much questions and support as I can.
I Finally managed to fix it!
To cut a long story short, after cutting the sheaths to the power cable fuse and switch I was then able to test continuity for all three components.
It turns out the the problem was the metal bit which has the wire soldered onto at the back of the fuse holder was pushed out so there was no power connection getting through. I tested all three components and came to the conclusion that it was the fuse holder cause that was the only thing which I wasn't getting continuity from. I pushed the metal pin back in and after doing so there was continuity. I then electrical taped everything back up and rescrewed half the screws back in just in case I had to undo them again if I was wrong and Voila......WE HAVE POWER.
Even though the power was running through to it I knew I wasn't exactly at home base yet cause there still could be other things that could go wrong. I really excitedly and quickly reconnected everything and tested the speakers and yes everything was working 100% without any problems.
I really must say a very massive thank you to Redshift, Baylis, Unique and all others who have contributed their extremely valuable advice which put an end to a 3 week long many sleepless nights ordeal.
THANK YOU..........THANK YOU.......THANK YOU.
I will be more than happy to provide my assistance to any other people that may be experiencing the same problem with their Z680's. Just PM me and I will try to answer as much questions and support as I can.
Got happy too early
Looks like I got happy too early! After testing the system thoroughly I found that the rear channels are not working now???
All the other channels front left, front right, centre, and sub woofer produce the white noise when I use the inbuilt test function on the system. However, when it gets to rear left and rear right there is complete silence.
From trying to fix it initially I have confirmed that the TDA chip amps are fine so they can't be the issue. I'm thinking that it may be the control pod but that is very unlikely cause all channels were working fine prior to the system dying on me.
Is there any way I can test/troubleshoot this issue and find out which part is the culprit and fix the unit completely?
Looks like I got happy too early! After testing the system thoroughly I found that the rear channels are not working now???
All the other channels front left, front right, centre, and sub woofer produce the white noise when I use the inbuilt test function on the system. However, when it gets to rear left and rear right there is complete silence.
From trying to fix it initially I have confirmed that the TDA chip amps are fine so they can't be the issue. I'm thinking that it may be the control pod but that is very unlikely cause all channels were working fine prior to the system dying on me.
Is there any way I can test/troubleshoot this issue and find out which part is the culprit and fix the unit completely?
UPDATE:
It's ok guys I think I found the culprit, I done a resistance check on the parts which I think are fuses and found that 2 of the five are dead. I followed the rear left and rear right speaker cables and traced them to these fuses T2AL250V. The fuses for the other channels show resistance/continuity except the two that I mentioned earlier. I think I will have to do so hunting around for the PCB mounted fuses on the net and once found will have to unsolder the dead ones and resolder on the new ones.
I think I'm really catching on to this electronics thing and really starting to build some interest/knowledge on it. I thank once again Redshift, baylis, AndrewT, Unique and any other who I may have missed for there invaluable advice/guidance. You guys have given me a set of skills that I can use for life and I am truely grateful.
It's ok guys I think I found the culprit, I done a resistance check on the parts which I think are fuses and found that 2 of the five are dead. I followed the rear left and rear right speaker cables and traced them to these fuses T2AL250V. The fuses for the other channels show resistance/continuity except the two that I mentioned earlier. I think I will have to do so hunting around for the PCB mounted fuses on the net and once found will have to unsolder the dead ones and resolder on the new ones.
I think I'm really catching on to this electronics thing and really starting to build some interest/knowledge on it. I thank once again Redshift, baylis, AndrewT, Unique and any other who I may have missed for there invaluable advice/guidance. You guys have given me a set of skills that I can use for life and I am truely grateful.
[RESOLVED 100%] Z680 no power issue / Channels not working issue [100% RESOLVED]
ALL UP AND RUNNING NOW!
I have just replaced the faulty T2AL250V's with a standard 2A 20mm Slow Blow Glass Fuse that I bought from a local Aussie electronics provider (Dick Smith). I tried to find some fuse mounts/holders so I could install them to ensure future fuse changing could be done easier but Dickie's were out of stock. I ended up doing a really bodgee unprofessional job by make shift legs made from thin metal wire directly to the fuses and then mounting them onto the board. I deliberate left the make shift legs long on the fuse so it would be easier to replace when a fuse blows in future as it took me ages to be able to get the original logitech solder to melt or budge. I'm not sure what type of solder they use but god damn it takes a lot of heat to melt and even after it melts it seems to cool and settle in less than a second. Apart from this annoying factor it was also almost impossbile to get the hole free of solder so I could push the new fuse legs through. I would not have been able to do it with two hands so I enlisted the help of my wonderful multi-talented
Mrs to help with the soldering. Even with 2 people and 4 sets of hands it was still a tough job to complete.
However, after 3 hours plus of working co-operatively together we finally managed to mount the new fuses with extra long amateurish looking style legs on to the board. I tested continuity to all the fuses and made sure everything was testing ok before I put everything back together and connected all the wires back up properly
.
The moment of truth finally arrived and so I carefully plugged in the control pod then turned the power switch on. The unit powered up fine so that was a good sign that my first fix was still holding up. I then hit the test button on the remote for the moment of truth
. I heard the lovely woman's voice saying front left, front centre, front right.........this is the point it went silent before but this time the woman's voice continued with rear left and then finally rear right. Success at long last all channels working 100% so I pumped up some victory music 
to rejoice in the harmony of 5.1 working channels. For now it seems all is good so I hope it will stay this way for at least a while as that sure as hell was one heck of an ordeal.
I feel confident that I will be able to diagnose simple electronic problems now and should have enough knowledge under my belt to fix them. If there are any people out there who may have experienced this issue but are looking for help with it please feel free to PM or email me and I will try my best to help like the elite mentors from this forum have helped me. I know I spent countless hours seaching the net and browsing through numerous forums to finally get this issue resolved and would hope to make it a little bit easier for other people with the same problem.
A big thank you to my mentors
once again and I hope to be able to keep in touch with you guy's if possible.
ALL UP AND RUNNING NOW!
I have just replaced the faulty T2AL250V's with a standard 2A 20mm Slow Blow Glass Fuse that I bought from a local Aussie electronics provider (Dick Smith). I tried to find some fuse mounts/holders so I could install them to ensure future fuse changing could be done easier but Dickie's were out of stock. I ended up doing a really bodgee unprofessional job by make shift legs made from thin metal wire directly to the fuses and then mounting them onto the board. I deliberate left the make shift legs long on the fuse so it would be easier to replace when a fuse blows in future as it took me ages to be able to get the original logitech solder to melt or budge. I'm not sure what type of solder they use but god damn it takes a lot of heat to melt and even after it melts it seems to cool and settle in less than a second. Apart from this annoying factor it was also almost impossbile to get the hole free of solder so I could push the new fuse legs through. I would not have been able to do it with two hands so I enlisted the help of my wonderful multi-talented
Mrs to help with the soldering. Even with 2 people and 4 sets of hands it was still a tough job to complete. However, after 3 hours plus of working co-operatively together we finally managed to mount the new fuses with extra long amateurish looking style legs on to the board. I tested continuity to all the fuses and made sure everything was testing ok before I put everything back together and connected all the wires back up properly
.The moment of truth finally arrived and so I carefully plugged in the control pod then turned the power switch on. The unit powered up fine so that was a good sign that my first fix was still holding up. I then hit the test button on the remote for the moment of truth
. I heard the lovely woman's voice saying front left, front centre, front right.........this is the point it went silent before but this time the woman's voice continued with rear left and then finally rear right. Success at long last all channels working 100% so I pumped up some victory music to rejoice in the harmony of 5.1 working channels. For now it seems all is good so I hope it will stay this way for at least a while as that sure as hell was one heck of an ordeal.I feel confident that I will be able to diagnose simple electronic problems now and should have enough knowledge under my belt to fix them. If there are any people out there who may have experienced this issue but are looking for help with it please feel free to PM or email me and I will try my best to help like the elite mentors from this forum have helped me. I know I spent countless hours seaching the net and browsing through numerous forums to finally get this issue resolved and would hope to make it a little bit easier for other people with the same problem.
A big thank you to my mentors
once again and I hope to be able to keep in touch with you guy's if possible.2 channels out, fixed, fyi
I had a problem with my z-680 and lost both my rear channels. I assumed that the problem was with the amp, as I have seen many channels blow in car audio amps during my days as a tech. Amp tested fine. Bought another system and as it turns out the problem was the control module. If you loose 2 channels on one cable (front, rear, center/sub) I would consider the possibility that the module is at fault.
I had a problem with my z-680 and lost both my rear channels. I assumed that the problem was with the amp, as I have seen many channels blow in car audio amps during my days as a tech. Amp tested fine. Bought another system and as it turns out the problem was the control module. If you loose 2 channels on one cable (front, rear, center/sub) I would consider the possibility that the module is at fault.
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