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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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On the 19th June last year I said I was going to have a go at building a Gainclone.
Well, a year later and I have bought the boards from the far east and bought my own bits and loaded it all up. It works well, is quiet and was a bit of a pleasant surprise in all sound departments. I want to remove two components which don't appear on the attached gainclone schematic I found recently. Can I remove R1 and C5 and replace them with a wire link ? Will it still be stable and safe plus is there any sound quality to be gained by doing so ? Many thanks for all the help last year and sorry for the delay Andrew. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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I can't find R1.
The datasheet details the purpose of C5. (no it's Cs I see), where is C5? I do not see any of the National "optional" components. Tread carefully, this chipamp may blow itself up and/or take out your speakers, if even mildly abused. The PCB has C5 and R1. place them on the schematic. What is that high power resistor standing upright? I get the impression that your kit supplier has included the "optional" components. If so then keep all of them and add the few more that are still missing.
__________________
regards Andrew T. Last edited by AndrewT; 25th June 2010 at 11:11 AM. Reason: misread small print |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cape Town
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my guess is that R1 (as i see it on the pcb photo) is on the output. I can not be 100% sure.
if you are NOT putting these amplifiers in parallel then you should be able to take out R1 and bridge it. But you need to be 100% sure. I cannot comment on C5 without seeing the schematic. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Thanks for the replies.
Andrew T : The confusion is created by me - apologies. The schema is not the one relating to the photo of my baords. I recently found this drawing and noticed that the large resistor R1 ( 1R 5 watt ) on the output is not in the drawing and the capacitor C5 ( 1 uf 100 v ) is also missing compared to the drawing I received with the boards. So, I have assumed ( perhaps wrongly ) that maybe I can get away with removing them. The whole thing works so well that I'm now thinking I should just enjoy it and stop tinkering. Tangmonster : Your guess is correct. I don't fully understand the term parallel yet in relation to my kit. I guess if I upgrade to two traffo's + 2 sets of rectifiers and caps in the future then this may be the parallel that you refer ? There currently is 1 power supply board ( 4 large caps and bridge rectifier ) 300 va traffo @ +25 0 -25 and the two amplfier boards. You'll have seen the kits on E Bay - not the best but they work. In your opinion will this simple configuration be safe for the removal of the 1R 5 W resistors at the output or do I just leave it alone ? Really appreciate the assistance Andrew |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Swindon
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Sounds like R1 and C5 on the PCB form a Zobel network. This helps ensure stability. You might get away without it, but it depends on your speakers. In fact, it might not be too good having a wirewound (inductive) resistor for R1.
Definately do NOT replace them with a wire link if this is correct, that'll short the output! I'd leave it in, mabye replace R1 for a metal oxide component. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Dr.EM
Thanks for the advice - noted. What's wrong with the wire wound resistor ? Isn't is safe.... or is it poor sounding ? I hope it's the latter of course as I've already bought some metal oxide replacements and will fit them as soon as they arrive. I also wish to fit bypass caps to my power supply caps. I'm thinking of 20 uf @ a few hundred volt rating but most of these values seem to be for crossovers, like Mundorf's for example. Can I still use these caps providing the voltage rating is large enough ? Many thanks for your help. Andrew |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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assemble the Cs caps as National tell you.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Andrew T
The schema I posted WAS the NS circuit and.... does not have the two components I questioned. This is the reason I asked if it was safe to remove them from my version. The schema I received with my el cheapo boards had a 1 uf cap before the first resistor (1 k ) at input and the 1R resistor just before the output terminal. If NS circuit works then surely mine will too without these two components. Am I way off here ? Thanks Andrew |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
If the R and C you are talking about happen to be an output zobel network, then replacing them both with wire links would short your output directly to ground! I think that you really must post an accurate schematic, if you are asking people about making such changes. Last edited by gootee; 25th June 2010 at 10:42 PM. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Is the feedback pickoff point before or after the 1R? Last edited by gootee; 25th June 2010 at 10:52 PM. |
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