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Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits

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Old 3rd January 2012, 10:55 AM   #921
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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wrankin,

I used the ApexJr snap-in caps successfully. The spring/curve in the leads allow both to find a point close to the edges of both holes.
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Last edited by bcmbob; 3rd January 2012 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 3rd January 2012, 12:38 PM   #922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrankin View Post
BTW, does anyone have a good recommendation of soldering/connection methods for those two 10,000 uF caps? I was looking at getting a set of snap-in's over at ApexJr.com, but the holes are so large I was worried about how to get a good solder connection. Thoughts?
Hi Bill,

don't worry about the big snap-ins.

Holes have the right size and you'll have no problems at all soldering the caps.

Simply insert the caps (pay attention to polarity), turn the PCB mantaining it horizantal.

Put some solder on a pin of both caps so to fix them and then fill with solder all pads.
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Old 3rd January 2012, 12:52 PM   #923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrankin View Post
.

BTW, does anyone have a good recommendation of soldering/connection methods for those two 10,000 uF caps? I was looking at getting a set of snap-in's over at ApexJr.com, but the holes are so large I was worried about how to get a good solder connection. Thoughts?
As Bob and Dario stated, it's actually quite easy once you get the hang of it. Just flip the cap over with the snap-in leads pointing upwards. Keep track of the polarity, and place the PCB (component side downwards) over it and push the leads so that the cap is flush with the PCB. Lightly twist the cap/PCB so that the two snap-in leads are in close contact with some side-surface of the holes. Solder the contact points first, then fill in with solder.
If the snap-in leads are steel or tarnished, then it helps to clean and tin them first before insertion.
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Old 3rd January 2012, 03:09 PM   #924
wrankin is online now wrankin  United States
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Excellent! Thanks for all the help.

-b
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Old 8th January 2012, 07:57 PM   #925
wrankin is online now wrankin  United States
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Default ...and there was music, and there was much rejoycing!

Got the caps and the LM3886's soldered in so it was finally time for some testing. Hooked up my (sacrificial) bench speaker, input from my laptop and let her rip. I had a 40W series light bulb on the powerline and it was also plugged into a kill-a-watt unit so I could check current. All the Magic Smoke stayed inside and I monitored and ran each one about 20 minutes. Things stayed nice and cool.

So now the time has come to figure out what I'm going to do about a case as well as how much heatsink I will need (esp. with a possible 4-ohm load).

Thanks to everyone for their help,

-b
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Old 8th January 2012, 08:36 PM   #926
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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Congrats wrankin,

If you have two transformers and opt for a separate vol/pre box, dual mono-blocks are fun. Here's a couple pics of some I did and the Lightspeed passive
attenuator that controls volume and balance. A search for "heat sink" at eBay will give you many choices both designed for audio and PC CPU modable pieces.

DSC00094.JPGDSC00135.JPGDSC00134.JPG
LS14 (1).JPGLS21.JPGDSC00117.JPG
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Last edited by bcmbob; 8th January 2012 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 8th January 2012, 09:13 PM   #927
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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My heat sink stash.

HS Stash.jpg
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Last edited by bcmbob; 8th January 2012 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 8th January 2012, 09:33 PM   #928
wrankin is online now wrankin  United States
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Quite a collection. I really like the idea of the monoblocks, but if I take this project in the direction that it seems to be heading - multi-amps, active crossover (probably dsp) then limiting the total number of chassis may be A Good Thing.

On the other hand, it gives you more flexibility and is really not a whole lot more work.

Certainly food for thought.

Thanks,

-bill
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Old 9th January 2012, 09:49 PM   #929
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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Hi All, Over on the "Integrated" thread Andrew made some comments about pops and clicks when some safety devices function. That might introduce the need for an additional muting device.

Does anyone have accurate data on the length of the speaker protection mute/delay from the relay that's on the MyRef?
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Old 10th January 2012, 04:16 PM   #930
wrankin is online now wrankin  United States
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The RevE kit from Siva that I just finished has a cut-on delay of about half a second.

From the schematic that he sent along, this looks like it's the same in his 1.4.1 RevC kits. One component in the delay circuit does differ from the value printed on the PCB and that is R21. Siva specs a 100k and the PCB (vers 1.3) lists a 220k. I haven't payed too much attention to it, but from a quick glance I would hesitate a guess that increasing R21 would increase the delay time.

I have not noticed any pops and clicks, but I have not run the boards on full line voltage yet - I always had a 40W bulb in series - and that could easily impact the start-up.

-bill
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