2*100 watt @ 4ohm TK2050 or LM3886 Gain Clone??

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Excuse me?

Hi Sendler,
this is not a comparison. This is a deliberate misinterpretation of the specs to confuse the beginner and promote the digital type cause.
Tell the truth and learn to read the specifications, rather than spout your version of balderdash.
From the LM3886 data sheet. The LM3886 is hitting 10% distortion at 90 watts/4 ohms. 10% distortion at 75 watts/ 8 ohms
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http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM3886.pdf
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SMPS fan never runs

So The cooling fan on the meanwell powersupply and a cooling fan on the tk2050 bothers NOONE?

I suppose the fan on the tk2050 can be replaced with bigger heatsink?

The fan on the Meanwell SMPS never runs. The case barely gets warm. The 12v fan on the amp is idling along at 5v so is nearly silent at 1 foot. I change the heatsink to a Zalman which runs 44C.
 

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Here is the standard use for lm3886 with low THD

single lm3886 standard use:

28 0 28V rails = 68W (4 ohm)
35 0 35V rails = 50W (8 ohm)

According to the datasheet THD+n using 4 ohm's at 60W is 0.03% using 28 0 28 rails
Obviously 100W into 4 ohms wil give a stupid thd of 10%.

fr1s has 8 ohm speakers so he should be more than happy when using 35 0 35 rails for his lm3886 amps.
 
LM3886) +- 35V rails and 8 ohm 50W has MAXIMUM 0.1% THD+n

TK2050) <3% thd at 50W @ 8ohm

These specs are taken from datasheets.

Don't get me wrong. I am going to get one of the tk2050 modules and experiment myself. But on paper , to me , into 8 ohm loads. I will have to opt for lm3886


for 4ohms the TK2050 Datasheet shows 0.005% thd+N @ 70W which does sound better than lm3886 <0.1% at 68Wthough , but i doubt i'll hear the difference.
 
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I have read that thread,and the modifications are extensive and plauged with problems.
IMO if you have to make those many mod's in order to get it to sound good it is not a very good design.
Also I wouldn't want to risk my speakers with noises pops and clicks in the event some thing doesn't go right with the mod.
What happens when the chip blows out?
SMD is not easy to work on and you would be out a $40 board as opposed to replacing a $6 chip.
If you like to tinker then get the tri-path.
If you want great sound then the lm3886 is robust and durable amp that can be bridged or paralleled without issues,not as easliy so with class d amplifiers.
Don't get me wrong I like the class d design,but it is a compleatly different animal and requires a good scope and test equipment and such to get the best out the them.
Just remember that what somebody else perceives as good sounding might not be the same for you.
The type of material and how listen to it ,is a big factor also.do you eq or not eq?
For an example I personaly try not to use any eq at all.
But somtimes this is impossible because the material is just badly eq and mixed and I don't like alot of midrange anyhow.
So by pulling out a little bit of midrange and/or boosting the lows and raising the highs a tad,can give you the perception of a cleaner and more dynamic sound.
IMO all of those mods are probably changing the frequency response of the circuit that was already designed to have a flat response.
Thats just my opinion,good luck to you on your choice. jer
 
well done Tang, you have demonstrated you can read a datasheet.

I had to read that twice i though you where being sarcastic. :p

If you want great sound then the lm3886 is robust and durable amp that can be bridged or paralleled without issues,not as easliy so with class d amplifiers.

That specific tk2050 board already uses two chips each chip paralleled for higher output in 4 ohms.

If you got a half the cost option using only one chip with 2 x 50W output into 8 ohm.
That should really make for a SUPER cheap 2 x 50W amplifier even though at a
thd+n <3% at 50W into 8ohm

But I am sure of all the other parts on that board the two tk2050 possibly makes up 20% of the total cost? So It's not worth the effort.

On the efficiency front the class D wins obviously....

But in the end , the difference between 35W and 50W is SO small in loudness perception to the ear...
 
The difference maybe nil in average loudness but the extra power comes in handy for the extra dynamic range when one bumps up the low end a bit.
I know we're not talking about a big amp (>100watts)here, but the difference is still greater than 40%.
About 1.5db or so or more.
IMO efficiency doesn't mean anything if the amp can't produce the power required.
Worring about efficiency is only good if you were runnig off of batteries.
And if that was the issue one would choose a speaker with a higher efficiancy rating so as not to require as much power for a given sound pressure level.
I believe that this is not the case here.
You can't hear efficiancy, but i do apreciate your point. jer
 
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Sounds powerful

The difference maybe nil in average loudness but the extra power comes in handy for the extra dynamic range when one bumps up the low end a bit.
I know we're not talking about a big amp (>100watts)here, but the difference is still greater than 40%.
About 1.5db or so or more.
IMO efficiency doesn't mean anything if the amp can't produce the power required.
Worring about efficiency is only good if you were runnig off of batteries.
And if that was the issue one would choose a speaker with a higher efficiancy rating so as not to require as much power for a given sound pressure level.
I believe that this is not the case here.
You can't hear efficiancy, but i do apreciate your point. jer
Based on listening, the TK2050 amps sound MUCH more powerful than the specs. Explosive dynamics like I have never heard from any of my AB amps.
 
Like one of u mentioned it is easier to replace a burnt out lm3886 then 2050
So I'd want to get the one that wont destroy my speakers and that sounds good :p but so far from what I've read I like what u guys got going here! Little LM3886 VS TK2050 thread, so it's a good thing for me to read what people actual think about both of these amps :p
 
I'm certainly not knocking the abilities of the amp as I have read many good reviews on the tri-path system and have yet to hear one.
I was merely trying to point the pros and cons of the two technologies and was not impressed by the specs per cost and/or ease of use and expandability when it comes to modifications.
But then again you can't hear by spec's either.
Being well experienced in recording and recording technology I have never really liked the sound of the digital realm compared to analog.
Even with the advent of 24 bit resolution it is closer but not the same as analog, IMO the sample rate is not high enough the same goes for class d amps.
Thats just my opinion about digital.
I'm not saying that is bad.
It's hard to beat an good'ol linear amp if designed properly.
What goes in will come out unmodified,this is something that class d designers have been struggling with for years.
I,myself included.
As I also have been woking on designs of my own.
I feel it is a very promising format.
But IMO one could have a much much more capable and versatile amp using a pair of lm3886's for the same amount of money or less. jer
 
10k

another thing, waht kind of Potentiometers should I use for lm3886 or tk2050? 10k 20k or maybe 100k?
The lower the better for passive volume controls down to the point where your source starts to have trouble driving it. I use 4k switched shunt stepped attenuators which are a similar impedance to 10k pots. Keep the wires following the pot short for the best sound.
 
The Sure is the cheapest and the quickest with all of the connectors on the board. The stock parts of a 41Hz kit will be better but you have to build it. The Truepath 3020 modules from Connexelectronic could be even better if you wanted to spend a little more than the Sure 2X100. Class D isn't just for efficiency. It sounds better. Ultra transparent, explosive dynamics, and sounds much more powerful than it's specs.

Hi Sendler,
I agree full with you regarding the sound quality. But this sure board failed after 4 days continious playing. I really loved the sound though it´s a little bit toxic comparing to an Trends TA-10.

The blue HMute LED shines after 5 seconds running and then the amp shuts down with a loud bumb/noise out of the speakers. Cooling Fan also stops running. I have contacted yet sure-electronics but still not received an reply. It´s weekend I know.

Any suggestions or thoughts from you ...? It would be fine

Thanks much
 
2x100?

Hi Sendler,
I agree full with you regarding the sound quality. But this sure board failed after 4 days continious playing. I really loved the sound though it´s a little bit toxic comparing to an Trends TA-10.

The blue HMute LED shines after 5 seconds running and then the amp shuts down with a loud bumb/noise out of the speakers. Cooling Fan also stops running. I have contacted yet sure-electronics but still not received an reply. It´s weekend I know.

Any suggestions or thoughts from you ...? It would be fine

Thanks much
I haven't heard of any failures of the two channel boards with fans on the other thread. You can ask over there
.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/143669-sure-electronics-new-tripath-board-tc2000-tp2050.html
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but I'm certain that Sure will send you another board.
 
I would suggest 160 VA 25V 0 25V toroidal as a minimum.

But even better will be a 220VA 25 0 25 V toroidal.

Don't confuse your socket AC voltage(110V to 120V) with the power capability(VA) of the transformer.

You need a 110 - 120V 220VA 25V 0 25V toroidal transformer for that circuit.


I also have question about toroids.

I looked for 35v 0 35v toroid on internet and i couldn't finds one, I've seen bunch of 25's and 36's with different VA ratings mostly 250 and 160, so if you know where i could get proper toroid can u guys post a link?
thx :p
really appreciate it
 
Here is the standard use for lm3886 with low THD

single lm3886 standard use:

28 0 28V rails = 68W (4 ohm)
35 0 35V rails = 50W (8 ohm)

According to the datasheet THD+n using 4 ohm's at 60W is 0.03% using 28 0 28 rails
Obviously 100W into 4 ohms wil give a stupid thd of 10%.

fr1s has 8 ohm speakers so he should be more than happy when using 35 0 35 rails for his lm3886 amps.

yea but as u see I got 8ohm speakers and guys said that 35 would be better for it :p

btw thx of r the grounding topic :)
 
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