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#11 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
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Quote:
Yes, low noise and low quiescent current. Quote:
I could try SMD as long as it is not something like TQFN or similar to it. That's why I sadly cannot use class D amps, they operate on low voltages. And there is no point in using voltage regulators as they are not energy efficient. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
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So, which chip should I choose?
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Well your kinda flaky on your requirements. Its hard to do 1-2watt, 12v, very low noise. Why dont you relist your requirements alittle better then just "low".
1. quiescent/idle current requirement for the chip and power supply 2. sn ratio minimum 3. distortion maximum at 1.5 watt 4. package requirements. aka thru-hole, smt pads, sockets 5. minimum speaker impedance 6. B+ voltage source. I believe you said 12vdc What gets me is the 12vdc source, yet wants low idle current. It sounds like a battery run time requirement, but a 12vdc battery that needs a really low idle current? You would think the rest of the system would be sucking 10x more then even a "high" idle current setup. Hell if you think about it, a solution with a 5-8vdc rail via a voltage regulator, would have a low idle current, since the chip is running at a lower voltage, and the regulator is doing almost nothing while the chip idles. |
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#15 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
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1. quiescent/idle current requirement for the chip and power supply -> the lower the better (<=30mA would be great)
2. sn ratio minimum -> reasonable (don't know much about it). 3. distortion maximum at 1.5 watt -> reasonable (don't know much about it). 4. package requirements. aka thru-hole, smt pads, sockets -> thru-hole would be the best option. 5. minimum speaker impedance -> 8ohms. 6. B+ voltage source. I believe you said 12vdc -> yes. Quote:
Quote:
All I care is idle power consumption (so, if 5V amp + voltage regulator gives that, I am happy), no obvious hiss and reasonable distortion. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Go with your TDA7052A or TDA7052. However use a 6vdc regulator to drop the 12v down to half. Idle current will not change from the stock 4ma with a regulator. It will just be 12vdc at 4ma instead of 6vdc at 4ma. I would also glue a hunk of aluminum to the top of it with jb weld or some other thermally conductive epoxy. I would want to push 1 watt through a unheatsinked dip8.
Hell now that i think about it you could just use a 6 volt zener to drop the voltage down to 6volts. Last edited by nightanole; 20th April 2010 at 05:33 PM. |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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I still say to go with the TDA7276A.
No voltage regulation needed Easy to heat sink Minimum parts Low noise Will deliver 1.5 watts into 8 ohms with 12 volt supply (no clipping at this output) Watch this video: YouTube - vegmatic1966's Channel |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
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At the moment I am trying to do it with 7052A.
That's what I got for now: http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/8213/7052av2.png. |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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The problem with the tda7267a (tda7276 is a motor speed control) is it idles at 35ma, vs 5ma of his 7052a. Hes going for an extended run time option. I think all it does is beep every once in awhile or something.
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
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If you have more capacitance on the 7806's output than on the input, you should add a flyback diode.
Shouldn't there be an input resistor to ground? The symbol you used for the input is the ground symbol
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If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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