Have a 2nd easy question.
Since im building this from parts I already have. I have a bunch of electrolytic caps. Can I throw in two 10uf 25V polarized electrolytics on the input as coupling caps? ive seen where people use caps when its with small signals like this.
When I say two. I mean one per channel, not two back to back.
Since im building this from parts I already have. I have a bunch of electrolytic caps. Can I throw in two 10uf 25V polarized electrolytics on the input as coupling caps? ive seen where people use caps when its with small signals like this.
When I say two. I mean one per channel, not two back to back.
hello.
why should it sound bad? this is a chipamp as many others around.............will sound like the others.
a 10uf/25v elco on the input should be no problem (if you do not excess the input volts).
you will have to think about speaker load and psu voltage..........4 or 8 ohm speakers........+-16v or +-20v or so..............
and a good (=big) heatsink (chip mounted with isolation material on it).
greetings
why should it sound bad? this is a chipamp as many others around.............will sound like the others.
a 10uf/25v elco on the input should be no problem (if you do not excess the input volts).
you will have to think about speaker load and psu voltage..........4 or 8 ohm speakers........+-16v or +-20v or so..............
and a good (=big) heatsink (chip mounted with isolation material on it).
greetings
hii have m using this chip currnetly and to me they sound ok, not bad, and the only thing is that u need to make the cirucit asper the datasheet, u can keep the mute/standby pin floating , no issues,
i like the sound and mine is running at + - 22v with 8ohm dayton classic shielded 5.25" woofer
i like the sound and mine is running at + - 22v with 8ohm dayton classic shielded 5.25" woofer
Very dangeourous...
Both smps have the minus connected to earth.
So the negative side of your power supply will be
in short circuit to ground , unless you cut the negative supply
earth wire.
"Very dangeourous...
Both smps have the minus connected to earth.
So the negative side of your power supply will be
in short circuit to ground , unless you cut the negative supply
earth wire."
Our SMPS do NOT have negative connected to the common on the input. they are completely isolated.
I thought I said this in a previous post?
Both smps have the minus connected to earth.
So the negative side of your power supply will be
in short circuit to ground , unless you cut the negative supply
earth wire."
Our SMPS do NOT have negative connected to the common on the input. they are completely isolated.
I thought I said this in a previous post?
Pra---- i m currently using it in that way , the structure of the TDA7294/96/95/93 different from TDA7265, and i m using it in a stereo config not bridge mode, coz i need all the protection coz when you bridge the 7265 ,you will get 50 at 8 ohm with 16 - 0 -16 /4.5 amp supply but your proctection circuits will be dissabled,
and ihave gone to the full volume using my laptop ACER4720z running on vista premium, and also connected N78 phone directly ot the amp without any problems or hiss, its a quite stable and decent, if you make your pcb properly , Altec Lansing probly wouldnt use it in its 2.1 , if it was bad
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Ok So. I'm a little confused over the mute pin. The datasheet shows specs that are weird to me.
If i'm understanding this right, if i am running the chip off of 19V +- and I hook +19V to the mute pin the chip will go into standby? But If i give it +12 volts it will mute it?
I want to hook up a standby switch for convenience. I am assuming zero power to the mute pin "floating" means the chip never mutes and is always on?
If i'm understanding this right, if i am running the chip off of 19V +- and I hook +19V to the mute pin the chip will go into standby? But If i give it +12 volts it will mute it?
I want to hook up a standby switch for convenience. I am assuming zero power to the mute pin "floating" means the chip never mutes and is always on?
hey mannnnn
use the layout i posted you amp will work fine, else give it +19volts through a switch - so when u put it on,,, then its 19volts if its off that pin goes floating,,,
simple right
enjoy your
amp its a simple stable chip and dont use it with out the gain resistors
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
first attempt amp did not work. second attempt after messing with the mute circuit amp worked but had 3V dc on the outputs. Third attempt after realizing my signal ground was not connected to my power ground, I now have virtually no DC offset, standby\on works and the amp sounds great.
I did not hook the scope up yet but I do not hear any noise from the dual switching supplies.
The picture shows wires and whatnot I just slapped together for testing. It will be much neater once assembled in an enclosure. Amp was built for around $10 with parts I had laying around and a PCB from a friend.
So far, the TDA-7265 seems to have some muscle, at least for its size. Its certainly not what I expected, especially for $10
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