Gainclone parts list (digikey?) or kit?

[rammsteinme]

I have seen several parts list by fellow gainclone builders but I'm looking in the Digikey catalog to obtain several parts and I'm at a loss because some do not exist or I'm not finding them.

Is there a digikey parts (complete with part numbers) out there than anyone care to share with? Or if there is another parts list from US suppliers? Or even simpler has anyone put together a kit-form of all the parts or anyone pooling together to buy parts in bulk?

Thanks for any help!
-r

 

[JCoffey]

Ya, either a basic kit or an agreed upon parts list would be great.

 

[mikelm]

this peter daniels parts list that someone put out recently. not the cheapest but nice quality.

hope it helps and is OK with peter

mike

 

[Peter Daniel]

hope it helps and is OK with peter

Here are some corrections, based on my experience and observations from other people listening to my GainClone amps.

220K resistor could be Riken or Caddock, as those seem to be better than Holco, Vishay S102 didn't sound that well (too mellow), Caddock is my current choice.

Umbilical cord made using 8 runs of Cardas 19ga. hook up wire ($1.5/foot). It sounds better than Kimber, although it's more hassle to terminate and put in a sleeve.

Rectifer diodes definitely MUR860. I tried different different types, but the ones made by On Semi are very good overall choice. I was using MSR860 for a while, but they seem to be too bright and some frequencies are exaggerated too much. But they are good for acoustic music, classical and jazz.

If you built stereo amp, you need only 3 cones, and those make a difference.

If on budget, use regular RCA jacks. I'm using Chinese made ( but nice, with teflon) from my local store at $2.5 ea. Also if you didn't take part in Cardas group purchase, you could probably use some other, cheaper posts as I don't think they make so much difference.

4.7 BG N at the bridges are good investment IMO (as those are nice sounding caps), but for main filtering you might try Panasonic FC or Nichicon KZ caps. Don't go over 1000u as this is not recommended for good sound.

If your source don't present DC offset, don't use input coupling caps, if you have to use them those 4.7 BG N are good choice. Better than your average Solen or Wima.

If someone knows how to edit the original list, feel free to do it

 

[mikelm]

terminal posts

.....you could probably use some other, cheaper posts as I don't think they make so much difference.

I don't know how cardas sound compared to other types, at present I have audionote heavy silver plate types on my mono blocks, but I have found that even with these there is a clear sonic advantage in soldering the wires direct to the amp o/p's & likewise at the speaker end.

not quite so easy to experiment with cables

Also some, including myself, have noticed that having the X-over next to the amp is good.

cheers

mike

 

[Peter Daniel]

Re: terminal posts

I don't know how cardas sound compared to other types, at present I have audionote heavy silver plate types on my mono blocks, but I have found that even with these there is a clear sonic advantage in soldering the wires direct to the amp o/p's & likewise at the speaker end.

Maybe those Audio Note posts not that good? I replaced Cardas bare copper posts with direct wire connection to the speaker and the difference wasn't that big

 

[leadbelly]

I'm out of date on electronics info, but back in the day, wasn't even a properly executed solder joint higher in resistance that a big gauge connector because of the resistance added by the flux on the connector surface?

 

[rammsteinme]

Here's what I have found so far. I'm sure I have something incorrect here so please do correct me.

I Found a circuit of the gainklone on http://www.freewebs.com/matttcatttweb/
A good description on how to put them together (especially the transformer part) can be found at http://www.decdun.fsnet.co.uk/gaincloneFAQ.html

Qty	Description			Part #			Supplier			Cost (US$)	Total
2	Cond 4.7uF, 50V BlackGate N		BLKGATE- 60186 		partsconnexion.com		$2.50 		$5.00 
4	1000uF, 50V Panasonic FC		P10333-ND (or P11263-ND)	digikey.com		2.37		$9.48 
2	10K Ohm .75W Caddock:MK132		CADDOCK- 51201 		partsconnexion.com		3.95		$7.90 
2	220K Ohm .75W Caddock:MK132		CADDOCK- 62290 		partsconnexion.com		4.5		$9.00 
8	MUR860 Diodes			MUR860-ND			digikey.com		0.76		$6.08 
2	LM3875 Op-Amp			LM3875TF-ND		digikey.com		5.81		$11.62 
												total	$49.08 
1	Transformer (range 20-40)		Surplus?						$0.00 
1	50K Stereo pot	Radio shack?	Radio shack?					$0.00

I've shorten the list down to the critical components. It seems like most of the main component parts can be obtained from two suppliers. I still haven't found a cheap source for the toroids nor can I find the damn stereo pot on digikey.

Anyone spot an error with my choice of electronics? I found two 1000uF Panasonics and not too sure which is better...

Other components I did not bother to list are the RCA inputs, binding posts etc. that you can obtain from your own source. For me it means taking it off old broken components and leftover parts.

 

[Mach_Y]

rammsteinme, you have the wrong part number for the 4.7uF blackgate. Your part number shown (60186) is the Blackgate C, not Blackgate N. The N is 60098 and is $4.45 each.

 

[jpask]

What about hook up wire?

Some pictures I see people are using some sort of solid core, varnish coated wire to go to rca's and speaker posts. What is the preference?

 

[Algar_emi]

Updated Gain clone BOM

Here, from the somebody
The updated parts list....

Bye.

 

[Peter Daniel]

Re: What about hook up wire?

Some pictures I see people are using some sort of solid core, varnish coated wire to go to rca's and speaker posts. What is the preference?

I'm using 18ga solid core copper wire for power connection inside amp and for signal I use whatever I cut off from Riken resistors. For some special edition amps, I'm using Kimber silver wire for signal.