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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Oh I definately want to get it working like it should. The sound is really good, I love the fact that it has a pair of inputs, and that it has a built in pre amp, headphone jack, and sub out, makes it even better. I wish I knew more about electronics than I do, cause if I did, I'd rebuild it with only the parts I wanted, and leave off the crap.Still, not a bad amp for only $100
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Oh I definately want to get it working like it should. The sound is really good, I love the fact that it has a pair of inputs, and that it has a built in pre amp, headphone jack, and sub out, makes it even better. I wish I knew more about electronics than I do, cause if I did, I'd rebuild it with only the parts I wanted, and leave off the crap.Still, not a bad amp for only $100
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Sorry about the double post. Not sure what happened. Well, I checked the input board, and all the solders look fine. I need to get a jewelers screwdriver to get the heatsink off, and I'll check out the rest of the board. I was wondering though, I've been dealing with car audio for a few years now, and one of the biggest forms of noise is signal wires being too close to power wires. Could that be casuing the problem?
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Dortmund, Germany
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Hi!
The amplifier section should be OK sounding, but the Pre-Amp could be crappy... Take a look at the ICs in the pre amp, what OPs are used? Maybe substitute them for better ones... Maybe bypass the equalizer... Budget hifi often uses crappy OP amps for preamp, and cheap euqalizers do not enhance the sound like they should, they rather make it worse...
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: hamilton,ontario
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allso if you get a chance try making the sheilded wires going to
rca's longer and moving them away from the transformer they look a little close. one thing i would do is just find somthing to sheild the transformer. try a small pot from the kitchen. sounds weird but it worked for me in the pasto and some better brand of caps helps to what's the brand name of the amp? |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
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well, after some research, All I could come up with is that the company is (was) called Micro Multimedia Labs. The Model of course is the TC-1490. It actually one PC Magazines #1 for multimedia packages, when it was purchased as a set with a matching powered sub, and two bookshelf speakers.
I was able to track down a number but the company doesnt apear to still be in business. I agree that the Pre-amp could be cuasing the problem. There's just too much junk there. and I'll also try to make the cables longer. Any suggestions as to what brand of high quality wiring should be used? (without breaking the bank of course) |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: hamilton,ontario
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leave the sheilded cables for last. try replaceing all 4 caps first one may be dried out or bad. if it was me i would just pull it apart and make a gainclone out of it
but thats me
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
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LOL, Ya, I've thought about that. If i had more know-how, I would. But, since this is going to be for a high end computer system, the layout is fine, and it will support a 20" monitor. (although it will sit on the top of my desk.) What I would like to do, though is rebuild it as much as my knowlage will let me, swapping out caps, wires, ics, binding and RCA posts, etc. Then my plans are to paint the chassis black, and make an aluminum faceplate, and replace the power, and level LEDs with blue ones.
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Just thought about somethnig last night. I have quite a bit of Cat5 cable laying around. How good is Cat5 for hookup wire? Or should I just bite the bullet and by Cardas?
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Bangalore, India
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The STK chip amp I built used to hum a lot. I just ran a wire from the power supply ground to the earth socket in the wall outlet. The hum was completely gone.
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