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#21 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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Quote:
Remember, a resistor has only two connections, not four but sorry for any confusion.
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The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#22 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Novice speaker builder
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Quote:
Quote:
I may be just an *** and not looking at it correctly at all so please excuse me if I don't see it yet (which does happen from time to time )
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
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Decibel Dungeon made a mistake in his drawing, the input goes to pin 8. Here's the schematic I'm using. Some components has been changed, but connections are correct.
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#24 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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Quote:
I replied to your post late last night and looked at the circuit diagram on the Gainclone page. I didn't realise that you were looking at the component layout diagram which is, as you point out, wrong. The input resistor should go to pin 8, NOT pin 7 as shown in that diagram. I'll change it as soon as I have time. Sorry for the confusion. And in my amp, the pot has been replaced by a resistor to ground as I use mine as monoblocks with an external preamp.
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The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#25 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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Quote:
Shouldn't the ground connection from pin 7 go to the the signal ground star rather than the power ground star? I originally did connect mine directly to the power ground star but found that the sound is better going to the signal ground star!
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The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
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Of course you are right. But my layout is so tight, I didn't notice any difference where I connect signal ground. So I just use the non inverting input pin and connect it to the closest ground wire. It works fine.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Novice speaker builder
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Hehe... I was pulling my hair out yesterday tracing a circuit of your diagram a couple times to make sure I did it correctly. Glad to know that it was a misprint!
The separate star ground the other thing that I wasn't sure about and wasn't mention on the beginners guide. It was mentioned that you have to do it but not the reason why... I still do not understand the concept because both star grounds will be connected together in the end? (Of course Peter's diagram also confused me slightly because he just took the nearest ground ) But now I understand it has to do with distance but what exactly?Also is there any reason to use the power ground (0v) to the resistor&cap to case then to the power star ground? I was going to hook it up directly from 0v to the power star ground... Oh and on the larger diagram (http://www.decdun.fsnet.co.uk/gainclonelayout.html) the speaker terminal outs seems to have the wrong colors (if we follow that the red means positive (+) and black is negative (-)) Misprint? |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
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Pin 3 is the actual output, common pint at filter caps is circuits ground. Since the GC in that coniguration inverts phase, it should be appropriate to connect speakers - terminal to pin 3 and + terminal to capacitors ground in order to preservr proper phase.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
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Here's a nice schematic showing proper ground connections
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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Ok, the reason for separate star grounds for signals and power as simply as I can explain it!
Let's use the water analogy! We want the signal as 'pure' as possible and we know the power is 'polluted'. So we want to keep the two separate as best we can. So the idea is that the returns to the power ground star are returned to the main ground star in the PSU without getting into the signal ground star. Still with me? In theory, the wire going from the power ground star to the main ground star should be thicker than the wire connecting the signal ground star to it. Thicker wire, less resistance, so the 'pollution' flows to the main ground star and not into the signal ground star where it could affect the signal.
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The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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| Commercial complete Gainclone kit for a beginner? | gychang | Chip Amps | 365 | 4th October 2011 08:19 AM |
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