Hey guys, I have a 60 year old car (Morris Minor Convertible) that currently has an ancient tuner hooked up to an old crappy speaker sitting on a parcel shelf. (Both added by a previous owner)
I'm wanting to upgrade this on the cheap, and realising I have a couple of spare computer satellite speakers here thought they might do well. They are ideal since they're already mounted in enclosures, albeit cheap crappy plastic, and that means I won't have to actually modify the car at all.
One thing I'll be needing though is an amplifier, and I was thinking a nice simple chip amp. To keep things simple, too, I'm hoping to be able to use the 12v car battery without stepping it up at all - in order to get the most out of such small voltage I will certainly be bridging.
But that's left me wondering if there's a single chip amplifier out there that will do the job. I've researched the LM3886 but the minimum voltage is much greater than 12V, and can't go anywhere near rail-to-rail.
Are there any chips out there that will handle a 12V power supply and be able to run close to rail-to-rail?
Thanks,
Rob.
I'm wanting to upgrade this on the cheap, and realising I have a couple of spare computer satellite speakers here thought they might do well. They are ideal since they're already mounted in enclosures, albeit cheap crappy plastic, and that means I won't have to actually modify the car at all.
One thing I'll be needing though is an amplifier, and I was thinking a nice simple chip amp. To keep things simple, too, I'm hoping to be able to use the 12v car battery without stepping it up at all - in order to get the most out of such small voltage I will certainly be bridging.
But that's left me wondering if there's a single chip amplifier out there that will do the job. I've researched the LM3886 but the minimum voltage is much greater than 12V, and can't go anywhere near rail-to-rail.
Are there any chips out there that will handle a 12V power supply and be able to run close to rail-to-rail?
Thanks,
Rob.
Oh wow, that looks pretty good. The problem is that since I will be using 8ohm speakers, I will only really have 6W per channel available.
Is 6W/channel enough for car audio?
Rob.
Is 6W/channel enough for car audio?
Rob.
Have a look at:
Philips
TDA1562Q 70W
TDA155xQ from 4x6W to 2x22W
TDA8560Q 2x40 @2 ohm
TDA8568Q 4x25W
from ST
TDA7374b 2x22W
TDA7375 2x22W
TDA7454 4x35W
TDA7560 4x45W
That's what I can think on for now. THD is approx 10% at mentioned output power.
Cheers
Philips
TDA1562Q 70W
TDA155xQ from 4x6W to 2x22W
TDA8560Q 2x40 @2 ohm
TDA8568Q 4x25W
from ST
TDA7374b 2x22W
TDA7375 2x22W
TDA7454 4x35W
TDA7560 4x45W
That's what I can think on for now. THD is approx 10% at mentioned output power.
Cheers
Thanks blueskynis.
Out of curiosity, though, what's an acceptable level of THD? I would've thought that <1% would be where it's at...
Rob.
Out of curiosity, though, what's an acceptable level of THD? I would've thought that <1% would be where it's at...
Rob.
The beauty of Arjen's boards is that they are generally considered VERY good in sound and quality and very inexpensive - just add power and a couple RCA jacks and you are ready to go...
Sure the TA2024 might me a little anemic for some but I'm pushing 40 and I just want a nice sounding system in my car...I refuse to pay hundreds of $$$ for an amp and all that...
I have a set of Blaupunkt separates in the front and a pair of Infinity kappas in the rear doors.
I just want nice crystal clear sound from my HU...I dont need to rattle any windows...
Sure the TA2024 might me a little anemic for some but I'm pushing 40 and I just want a nice sounding system in my car...I refuse to pay hundreds of $$$ for an amp and all that...
I have a set of Blaupunkt separates in the front and a pair of Infinity kappas in the rear doors.
I just want nice crystal clear sound from my HU...I dont need to rattle any windows...
Oh, don't get me wrong, window rattling is not what I'm going for - but I'm wondering if 6W is enough power to simply hear it properly considering...
- I'm using small inefficient sealed computer speakers
- They will be sitting on a parcel shelf, with quite a few obstructions and roundabouts to my ear
- This is in a 60yo car with more engine noise than usual (although not a whole lot more)
- It's a convertible, and there can be a bit of noise from the wind and surrounding traffic
Although, I guess for AUD$18 it can't hurt to buy and try.
Rob.
- I'm using small inefficient sealed computer speakers
- They will be sitting on a parcel shelf, with quite a few obstructions and roundabouts to my ear
- This is in a 60yo car with more engine noise than usual (although not a whole lot more)
- It's a convertible, and there can be a bit of noise from the wind and surrounding traffic
Although, I guess for AUD$18 it can't hurt to buy and try.
Rob.
Pick a single chip mentioned above and you will have around 2x10 watts of decent power at 8 ohms. 🙂 I would go for TDA7374 or 7375. I had 2xTDA1553 in my old car and they did their job nicely, pretty good sounding too.
If you can find a 12v laptop power supply for cheap, it would be an easy way to step up the voltage to 19v. Or build your own power supply circuit. A nonisolated push-pull is very easy to build.
Clipping is actually the worst distortion.
Perhaps you could use a little hi-fi amp for the front speakers and a car amp for the rear speakers?
Perhaps 1 of Sanyo LA4628 and 2 of TDA1562Q? This is just a bit more than double power at the rear speakers (which should be larger and can handle it).
Prevent clipping on the little Sanyo by sizing its input cap to the same low frequency capacity as the front speakers (this also helps protect the front speakers).
At 14.5vdc (with the alternator on), you'll have just barely enough audio power for when you've got the top down.
It just seems to me false economy to build something here regardless that it is an old car, unless maybe you want to build or restore something with tubes. Otherwise very good car stereos with e.g. bluetooth handsfree, sd/mmc card, usb, front aux, ipod control, mp3 playback are available new and very cheap, with lower spec devices at incredibly low prices if you are prepared to wait for post from China. Just concentrate your effort on a robust and maintainable 4-channel installation that does not clash unduly with the style of the old car, but is free from rattles, buzzes and ignition interference. This probably means buying some speakers, 4 identical coaxial drivers will not break the bank. If you pick efficient ones, you will only need 4x20W per channel. To hell with voltage boosting.
If the car has survived this long, it will probably survive a few decades more. You should put something in there to deal with the next decade at least. Most people find bluetooth handsfree a revelation when they first experience it.
w
If the car has survived this long, it will probably survive a few decades more. You should put something in there to deal with the next decade at least. Most people find bluetooth handsfree a revelation when they first experience it.
w
I've had good luck with TDA7240 (single channel version of TDA7374)
Very inexpensive, simple (2 resistors and a bunch of caps) bridge output (no coupling cap). Also works good with 12 volt supply for some computer applications. Also, for cheap single ended, TDA2005 stereo amp. (Many very inexpensive chips out there.)
Very inexpensive, simple (2 resistors and a bunch of caps) bridge output (no coupling cap). Also works good with 12 volt supply for some computer applications. Also, for cheap single ended, TDA2005 stereo amp. (Many very inexpensive chips out there.)
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