Hi.. I new around I would like to asked if I can replace TDA2030 with a TDA2050 in this diagram (http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/tom/files/simp200W.gif)
together with the out transistor just to increase the output power...
thanks and Godbless
together with the out transistor just to increase the output power...
thanks and Godbless
Yes, no problem.
Only difference is TDA2050 can take a bit higher Voltage supply:
= max 2x25VDC, rekommended 2x18-22VDC.
And that TDA2050 can have more watt power output (more current out) and less distortion than TDA2030.
Output peak current TDA2050 = 5 Ampere
For TDA2030 = 3.5 Ampere
I see that circuit is called "200W"
But you should expect to get max something like 25-50 Watt, I think.
Depends on your speakers, your voltage supply and transformer.
Only difference is TDA2050 can take a bit higher Voltage supply:
= max 2x25VDC, rekommended 2x18-22VDC.
And that TDA2050 can have more watt power output (more current out) and less distortion than TDA2030.
Output peak current TDA2050 = 5 Ampere
For TDA2030 = 3.5 Ampere
I see that circuit is called "200W"
But you should expect to get max something like 25-50 Watt, I think.
Depends on your speakers, your voltage supply and transformer.
It is bridged into 4 Ohm. With ±22 V as drawn you should get around 140 W with hardly bearable distortion. I have seen that diagram before and I think they specified 200 W at 10% THD.lineup said:
Replacing the TDA2030 with the TDA2050 won't make much of a difference though. If you want a TDA to drive transistors to high power levels with decent sound, try this one.
If you step up the voltage to achieve higher power output, you will have to use capacitors with the adequate voltage rating. You may then also increase the gain to achieve full power output for the same input level. That would mean to increase the two 100 k resistors, although that is probably not necessary.
If you don't step up the voltage, there will be no difference between TDA2030 and TDA2050.
You can use the TIP35C/36C as replacement for the BD707/708.
If you don't step up the voltage, there will be no difference between TDA2030 and TDA2050.
You can use the TIP35C/36C as replacement for the BD707/708.
Hi,
Whilst it will probably be OK I, a possible problem with these substitutions is instability. The 2030 and 2050 almost certainly have different compensation and the capacitance of the two transistors will probably be different.
Whilst you will probably get away with this, bridged amps are more suceptable to instability than single ended ones so I would be very careful the first time you power it up.
If at all possible have a oscilloscope available to look for oscillation and power it up on a current limited power supply. Alot of people seem to put light bulbs in series with the power supply when first powering up an amp so if lots of current is drawn the fillament gets hot and reduces the power rails. (I have a current limited PSU so use that) If you do this, if the light comes on the amp is unstable, turn it off.
If it powers up OK try a low level signal and then slowly turn it up. Often oscillation will occur as an amplifer approaches clipping and sometimes once it has started it will not stop again even if the signal is turned down again. The lamp may light slightly in time with the signal but if it come on for a long time the amp has gone unstable, turn it off.
If you really want to know if the amplifer is fully stable try putting different capacitors as a load on the output with a low level square wave as an input. Amps usually get a bit unstable arround 10nF to 100nF so watch this area very carefully. I usually check with caps from 100pF to 10uF using three per decade. i.e 100pF 330pF 680pF 1nF 3.3nF ...... etc. However I have a capactitance box to make theses checks, if you haven't then the 1nF to 100nF area is worth investigating and try whatever else you have lying arround.
If you don't have any of this kit available, then the minimum check is; Turn the amp on for about 2 seconds then off again. Then put your finger on the plastic part of the chip amp see if it has heated up really quickly. If it has it is probably unstable or there is another fault, dont turn it on again or it will blow up (Check all of your connections). Be aware you could burn your finger doing this if the amp is really badly unstable. If it is ok for 2 seconds double the time and try again - repeat untill you have reached 1 min. if its OK for a min then its not unstable with no load or signal. However it could still go unstable when you put it under load, amps usually recover if they are load unstable but they will run much hotter than they should so watch for this when you start using the amplifer.
Me I would beg an oscilloscope and signal generator off someone if at all possible.
Best of luck with your project.
Andy.
Whilst it will probably be OK I, a possible problem with these substitutions is instability. The 2030 and 2050 almost certainly have different compensation and the capacitance of the two transistors will probably be different.
Whilst you will probably get away with this, bridged amps are more suceptable to instability than single ended ones so I would be very careful the first time you power it up.
If at all possible have a oscilloscope available to look for oscillation and power it up on a current limited power supply. Alot of people seem to put light bulbs in series with the power supply when first powering up an amp so if lots of current is drawn the fillament gets hot and reduces the power rails. (I have a current limited PSU so use that) If you do this, if the light comes on the amp is unstable, turn it off.
If it powers up OK try a low level signal and then slowly turn it up. Often oscillation will occur as an amplifer approaches clipping and sometimes once it has started it will not stop again even if the signal is turned down again. The lamp may light slightly in time with the signal but if it come on for a long time the amp has gone unstable, turn it off.
If you really want to know if the amplifer is fully stable try putting different capacitors as a load on the output with a low level square wave as an input. Amps usually get a bit unstable arround 10nF to 100nF so watch this area very carefully. I usually check with caps from 100pF to 10uF using three per decade. i.e 100pF 330pF 680pF 1nF 3.3nF ...... etc. However I have a capactitance box to make theses checks, if you haven't then the 1nF to 100nF area is worth investigating and try whatever else you have lying arround.
If you don't have any of this kit available, then the minimum check is; Turn the amp on for about 2 seconds then off again. Then put your finger on the plastic part of the chip amp see if it has heated up really quickly. If it has it is probably unstable or there is another fault, dont turn it on again or it will blow up (Check all of your connections). Be aware you could burn your finger doing this if the amp is really badly unstable. If it is ok for 2 seconds double the time and try again - repeat untill you have reached 1 min. if its OK for a min then its not unstable with no load or signal. However it could still go unstable when you put it under load, amps usually recover if they are load unstable but they will run much hotter than they should so watch for this when you start using the amplifer.
Me I would beg an oscilloscope and signal generator off someone if at all possible.
Best of luck with your project.
Andy.
overheating ICS
greetings everyone. I'm using a 6channel multimedia
subwoofer. the problem is it started making a buzzing sound from surround left channel and a burning small. I quickly unplugged it and opened it.
then I realized that 3 tda2030 have over heated. I then bought new 7 tda2030 the amp worked well but the buzzing sound continued from the surround left channel. This time only one tda2030 has burned .Can anyone please help to resolve this malfunction
greetings everyone. I'm using a 6channel multimedia
subwoofer. the problem is it started making a buzzing sound from surround left channel and a burning small. I quickly unplugged it and opened it.
then I realized that 3 tda2030 have over heated. I then bought new 7 tda2030 the amp worked well but the buzzing sound continued from the surround left channel. This time only one tda2030 has burned .Can anyone please help to resolve this malfunction
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