First Lm3886

[PJPro]

Originally posted by AndrewT
expect ~30% for the amplifier, another ~30% for the chassis and heatsinks, another ~30% for the PSU and ~10% for case hardware.

Given that breakdown, I should be expecting to pay £100 all in! I was expecting the dual monos to cost around £200 (and would have if I'd gone for cheaper cases). I guess that the cheap cost of the LM3886 amp needs to be factored into your breakdown...I'd say reduce the percentage contribution of the amp to 15%.

Incidentally, care to recommend a discrete design for future consideration?

[AndrewT]

Hi,
no, not £100 all in.
Expect to pay more for your PSU and more for your amplifier and more for the minimum necessary hardware.

[PJPro]

Decibel Dungeon recommend that one

Place a small Class X1 rated capacitor (around 0.1 uF /275 volts is fine) across the switch contacts. This will help protect the contacts from arcing and also stop them from making a noise when the switch is operated. This is optional but recommended.

I trying to find something of Mouser that I can use for this but seems unable to find anything. I'd be grateful if someone could point me in the right direction.

[AndrewT]

Hi,
don't go abroad (Mouser) for this standard readily available component.

X1, X2, Y1, Y2 capacitors are standard fare here in the UK.

Look at RS, Farnell, Rapid etc.

You can also look for the integrated R+C snubber (suppressor) designed specifically to suppress interference emanating from noisy equipment.

[PJPro]

Originally posted by AndrewT
Hi,
don't go abroad (Mouser) for this standard readily available component.

X1, X2, Y1, Y2 capacitors are standard fare here in the UK.

Look at RS, Farnell, Rapid etc.

You can also look for the integrated R+C snubber (suppressor) designed specifically to suppress interference emanating from noisy equipment.

Thanks Andrew, I'll take a look.

[PJPro]

I'm in the process of building a power supply light bulb tester. I've got my bits from Maplin. However, I didn't like the look of their push to make switches for two reasons.

Firstly, they came with tiny solder lugs and I wanted to use insulated crimps and secondly because I wouldn't be able to tell by looking at the switches if they were switched on or off.

So I got these illuminated rocker switches instead (GU55 & GU56). clicky
These switches have four quick connect lugs. Anyone know how I should connect these up? They have no markings whatsoever.

[pacificblue]

I have used similar switches and they did come with numbers next to the connectors. Well-hidden and hard to read they were.

In the link's picture, the connector between the two plastic separators is either phase or neutral. The connector to the right is the corresponding output. On the side that is hidden in the picture the same thing, the connector between the separators in phase or neutral, the one in the corner is output. The light is connected between the two output connectors and lights up, when the switch is on. Polarity does not matter.

[PJPro]

Thanks very much. Your eyesight must be better than mine!

Incidentally, I've tried sourcing these X1 caps with no luck. Am I even going to be able to attach them when using insulated quick connectors?

[PJPro]

Apologies for my shocking ignorance

[mjf]

hello.
you can test the switch with your mulitmeter (ohmmeter).
evox - rifa,epcos,wima........and so on have suppressor caps.
greetings..............