Cutting IEC Socket in Chassis

reaper996 · 18th June 2009, 12:57 PM

What is the best way to cut out the IEC socket in the back of the amp chassis?

jackinnj · 18th June 2009, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by reaper996
What is the best way to cut out the IEC socket in the back of the amp chassis?

I assume you mean the hole for an IEC receptacle -- With a nibbler and a round file. Of course, you could get the appropriate punch from Greenlee but it's around $400.

Before you start, make sure you have the back-clearance to mount the IEC receptacle.

theAnonymous1 · 18th June 2009, 01:24 PM

A drill, a file, a dremel tool, and a bottle of whiskey.

Maybe the whiskey should come first.

reaper996 · 18th June 2009, 01:40 PM

Ah, a nibbler. Never though to use one and it gives me a reason to have one in my tool box.

kscharf · 18th June 2009, 02:29 PM

To make a template for the hole I used a knife to cut slits in a piece of cardboard to pass the terminals of the connector. I then pushed the connector terminals through the slits and traced around the body of the connector with a sharp pencil. I then removed the connector and used a sharp knife to cut out the outline of the connector, cutting inside the lines to under size the hole. I then compared the cutout with the connector body by pushing the connector though the cardboard. Satisfied that the hole was close to real size I used the template to draw the required hole on the back panel. Then drilled several holes inside the outline big enough to pass the bit of the nibbler. I got the nibbler close to the outline, and cleaned up the hole with various sized files. Final step is to insert the connector, use a nail to scratch trough the mounting holes to mark drill holes for the screws on the panel and drill them.

col · 18th June 2009, 02:42 PM

Is it a steel chassis or an aluminum one? I've had good results with drilling a hole in each corner of the outline and then using a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut between the holes (keep your fingers well out of the way though). Saves a heap on filing. It's MUCH easier with aluminum.

col.

jackinnj · 18th June 2009, 02:52 PM

and then you want to get some of those nice funnel screws (flat head) from McMaster:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=2dc2ue

kscharf · 18th June 2009, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by col
Is it a steel chassis or an aluminum one? I've had good results with drilling a hole in each corner of the outline and then using a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut between the holes (keep your fingers well out of the way though). Saves a heap on filing. It's MUCH easier with aluminum.

col.

My back panel was aluminum (about 1/16" thick). You can also use a scroll saw with a suitable blade (most blades will cut aluminum or copper, spiral blades might be the best). You'll have to drill a hole and insert the blade through the hole, then mount it in the saw. a bit tricky, but most scroll saw users have been there, done that before.

Dr.EM · 18th June 2009, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by col
Is it a steel chassis or an aluminum one? I've had good results with drilling a hole in each corner of the outline and then using a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut between the holes (keep your fingers well out of the way though). Saves a heap on filing. It's MUCH easier with aluminum.

col.

This is what I've done, but with a junior hacksaw! Of course, it won't reach a lot of the cutting area because of the frame, so a lot of filing is needed. This was on 4mm aluminium on 3 occasions

Juergen Knoop · 18th June 2009, 09:05 PM

I'm using a fretsaw. Works good in steel and aluminium.
Of course you have to buy metal cutting saw blades.
regards

18th June 2009, 12:57 PM	#1
reaper996 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2009	Cutting IEC Socket in Chassis What is the best way to cut out the IEC socket in the back of the amp chassis?

18th June 2009, 01:24 PM	#3
theAnonymous1 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Anonymityville	A drill, a file, a dremel tool, and a bottle of whiskey. Maybe the whiskey should come first. __________________ "Men willingly believe what they wish" - Julius Caesar

18th June 2009, 02:42 PM	#6
col diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia	Is it a steel chassis or an aluminum one? I've had good results with drilling a hole in each corner of the outline and then using a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut between the holes (keep your fingers well out of the way though). Saves a heap on filing. It's MUCH easier with aluminum. col. __________________ http://www.minirig.org.au

18th June 2009, 02:52 PM	#7
jackinnj diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Llanddewi Brefi, NJ	and then you want to get some of those nice funnel screws (flat head) from McMaster: http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=2dc2ue __________________ TinTin -- banned in Brooklyn

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18th June 2009, 01:40 PM	#4
reaper996 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2009	Ah, a nibbler. Never though to use one and it gives me a reason to have one in my tool box.

18th June 2009, 02:29 PM	#5
kscharf diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2007	To make a template for the hole I used a knife to cut slits in a piece of cardboard to pass the terminals of the connector. I then pushed the connector terminals through the slits and traced around the body of the connector with a sharp pencil. I then removed the connector and used a sharp knife to cut out the outline of the connector, cutting inside the lines to under size the hole. I then compared the cutout with the connector body by pushing the connector though the cardboard. Satisfied that the hole was close to real size I used the template to draw the required hole on the back panel. Then drilled several holes inside the outline big enough to pass the bit of the nibbler. I got the nibbler close to the outline, and cleaned up the hole with various sized files. Final step is to insert the connector, use a nail to scratch trough the mounting holes to mark drill holes for the screws on the panel and drill them.

18th June 2009, 09:05 PM	#10
Juergen Knoop diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Blog Entries: 3	I'm using a fretsaw. Works good in steel and aluminium. Of course you have to buy metal cutting saw blades. regards

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