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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Hello..
I am a long time lurker with very few posts. Finally i mastered the energy to get my lazy butt out of the chair and build a headphone amp. I used a Texas Instruments TPA1517 for the amp. Below are the results. It is not fully complete as i have only finished fabricating the board. The chassis and the works are in order. Ladies and gentlemen presenting HDamp (Pun intended.) ![]() Hdamp layout ![]() PSU Board ![]() Amp board ![]() The PSU receives its supply from a 10va trafo with 12-0-12 stepped down from 230-0 The 12-0-12 is rectified , and regulated (7815) and filtered PS: it is my first time building something and that too with SMDs ![]() feedback is appreciated |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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Does the 7815 not run hot? 24 V AC is quite a lot to produce 15 V DC. And 2 channels with 4 A peak output each are also a lot for a 1 A regulator.
__________________
If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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good, how are sonic results . . .
hey did u made the PCB at home, if yes , can u tell me how you do tinning (silvering) of the PCB.
__________________
---------------------------------------------------- http://diygainclone.blogspot.com/ |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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@pacificblue
it does but i m not using a 4 ohms load. i am using it to drive a 32 ohms headphone load. the only heat dissipated is the difference between the input voltage and the regulated output. i am using it with a heatsink, i have just not shown it in the picture once the chassis is finished i will post updated pics again. @kuldeep I have tinned it using lead, 25w soldering iron and a solderwick the fastest and least cumbersome way to tin it.. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Quote:
__________________
---------------------------------------------------- http://diygainclone.blogspot.com/ |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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@kuldeep
no mate. i used plain , run of the mill solder wire (60-40) first apply flux to the entire board. let the iron become hot. tin it not take a small quantity of solder onto it Let the flux core evaporate( i assume you are using rosin core solder) now use the iron as a paintbrush and coat the entire board in fast, small strokes Cover only a small area once and DO NOT use excess solder. You are only trying to tin the board not solder anything onto it. (A small droplet of molten solder can be used to coat a 1 inch x 1 inch copper clad fully.) Now flux the solder wick Now use the solderwick as a mop to remove the excess solder,if any, over the tinned tracks. It is pretty easy mate. Do one board and you will get the hang of it from the second board itself. PS : Do search youtube for "tinning" It will give some helpful results meanwhile see the video It is much more useful than a page of writing.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i32f5_0hXQU |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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thnx, the video is good
__________________
---------------------------------------------------- http://diygainclone.blogspot.com/ |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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this video explains the entire process in detail mate..
give it a look |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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