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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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A friend of mine actually built a hybrid digital amplifier that is powered by an old laptop power supply. I have seen it on display at a university engineering fair and it works very well. I even borrowed it for a few days for testing and I was very impressed at its quality and especially its very high efficiency.
Amanda Harris: the Prius of home audio - EcoRenovator
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"Fully on MOSFET = closed switch, Fully off MOSFET = open switch, Half on MOSFET = poor imitation of Tiffany Yep." - also applies to IGBTs! Last edited by star882; 13th November 2009 at 05:35 AM. |
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#22 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
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What the hell... a little off-topic are we?
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
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A summary of all that: Some sort of regulated power supply can make for nice results.
Also, if you build a class AB amplifier with the same care and attention to detail that is normally used in class D amps then the sound will be approximately as clear and the efficiency will be great, for either. Additionally, the power supply has the largest effect on sound, not a cap, not a coil, not a resistor, not a heatsink, not a potentiometer. . . Much attention to the power circuit makes for excellent sound. Starting out with excellent power makes the rest so much easier. Last edited by danielwritesbac; 13th November 2009 at 07:02 AM. |
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#24 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Perth, Australia
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I am in the process of building Mick Feuerbacher's 2 resistor LM3886 and just came across this thread. Have you completed yours yet? Did you try the two different pots and did you detect a worthwhile difference? I have a 10K stepped attenuator to try and also the "Optivol - Simple LDR volume control" from Greg Ball (SKA amps) [URL="http://www.ska-audio.com/Forum/YaBB.pl?num=1178438672"]. The Optivol is very simple and, for me, is an improvement on the attenuator. However, it likes a high input impedance so it remains to be seen whether it will suit Mick's simplified LM3886. Joe |
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#25 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
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#26 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Perth, Australia
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Without any type of input connected, I got a savage hum. With the 10k stepped attenuator, as in Mick Feuerbacher's schematic, hum disappeared and it sounds very nice. DC offset is about 10.5Mv on each channel. However, with LDR volume control in place of the stepped attenuator, the hum returned. So I soldered a 22K resistor across the input and hum is gone. The LDR volume control sounds clearer ad more dynamic and is an improvement over the stepped attenuator. However, I need to experiment a bit with the LDR input resistor to see if the value makes a difference. The LDR volume control is powered from the +V/0V of the Gainclone PSU through a (LM7815) 15V regulator. It is on a very small PCB (50mm X 12mm) so can be mounted near the back of the amp box for short input wire lengths, and the control pot mounted on the front panel. |
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#27 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Typical datasheet designs of 20k pot in parallel with 22k resistor can make enough load. Maybe the LDR makes only a 50k or 100k load, and that's why you had to "add to it" with a resistor? Reference point: input load 10k~15k Interesting point: Any bit of padding or losses at the input circuit, such as a series resistor, may decrease the load and it also may decrease the drive force of the source, whereupon the end result is not as clear at a distance but probably more pleasant if/when operated at closer range. This sort of thing may account for the difference between your two volume controls. A small, creative loss, such as an input transformer, passive match with caps, LDR, and some preamp designs, can help serve as an "un-compressor" in making clearer sound at a shorter distance (oh, say about where you're sitting when you listen to your speakers). The method does decrease the range that the sound will carry clearly, so its not for outdoor use. ![]() P.S. Thank you for the story and application note on the LDR. |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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I'm thinking of making an attenuator for a gainclone that is a low value like 1K. The idea being to use a value so low that it wont require a preamp/buffer to sound great.
Do you think 1K is too low and do you think a low value like this would help the SQ? Maybe I will try 500 Ohm instead. Also, has anyone compared different pot values like 5k vs 50k with gainclone? |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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it's not the chipamp after the volume pot that will be the problem.
It is whether the source can drive the load that the volume pot presents. |
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#30 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Low end source like computer or ipod could drive a 1K load so I don't see that load as much of a problem. |
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