Identifying fake LM3886 - Page 6

Stuey · 12th July 2009, 10:45 AM

No problems, Wazzy.

Once you do put it into a chassis, I find it easier to isolate the IC than the heatsink, even though it of course has an effect on the thermal performance of the chip.

I also prefer to have as much of the metal (ie. the heatsink) as possible connected to chassis ground and thus safety earth. But that's just a personal preference.

Good luck with your project.

Stu

ThyDntWntMusic · 12th July 2009, 10:52 AM

not sure anyone cares..

but I work with National Semiconductor components on a daily basis, all across the range of items they produce..

the printing on the components is no indication whatsoever of whether they're real or fake.

I've seen three different writing finishes on the same component value/types!!

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12th July 2009, 10:45 AM	#51
Stuey diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Perth, Western Australia	No problems, Wazzy. Once you do put it into a chassis, I find it easier to isolate the IC than the heatsink, even though it of course has an effect on the thermal performance of the chip. I also prefer to have as much of the metal (ie. the heatsink) as possible connected to chassis ground and thus safety earth. But that's just a personal preference. Good luck with your project. Stu

12th July 2009, 10:52 AM	#52
ThyDntWntMusic diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008	not sure anyone cares.. but I work with National Semiconductor components on a daily basis, all across the range of items they produce.. the printing on the components is no indication whatsoever of whether they're real or fake. I've seen three different writing finishes on the same component value/types!!

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