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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: United States
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hi all,
here's my end-goal: * 8-source stereo selection * one pga2310 per source * microcontroller-based i've put together and attached a schematic to show a bit more of what i mean. there is only one source (relay and pga) in the diagram now, but essentially the idea is to daisy-chain the pga's together and control them all with an atmel avr micro. what are your suggestions for making this design better? i'm curious if optical isolation between the analog and digital grounds would improve quality, but how is it doable? [EDIT:] oh! and do the inputs of the pga's need to be buffered and, if so, would an opa2134 be sufficient? thanks a bunch! ~ brad. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: United States
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aha!
well, in a flash of clarity and slight self-deprecation, i realized that there's no benefit to having a separate pga for each source. instead, just assume the design uses 8 relays into one pga, and the volume level of each source is recalled upon switching by the controlling micro. i feel a bit silly. still, is there anything you'd recommend to improve the design? thanks, ~ brad. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Your idea of using a input buffer is a good one, I would perhaps also add a output buffer using for example a BUF634 + OP634, this will let you drive headphone well too.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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check the data sheet on the PGA if the inputs should be buffered (I know the SSM2160 needs to be, similar VCA idea...)
anyways are you sure you want to use relays for switching your inputs? I really hate relays in the audio path, IMHO you should look into using analog switches/muxs i have used 74HCT4053 muxs with great success, actually i am currently working on an integrated amp/preamp. I should be posting with in a couple weeks. just my $0.02 Isolating grounds great idea, have the analog and digital grounds connect at one point only. You could use opto couplers from the micro to the muxs, for your digital I/O's this would keep everything seperate Dave |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: United States
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Quote:
![]() please, any more thoughts? thanks, ~ brad. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: United States
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Quote:
~ brad. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Someone is doing the same thing here: http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/...num=1236803143
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#8 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Quote:
Switches must be very sophisticated and therefore expensive, if they are to be as good as relays in the signal path. Many relays, even cheap ones, come with gold-, silver- or rhodium-plated contacts for low contact and corrosion resistance. If you want a switch with those platings, the manufacturers call it 'high-end' or 'audiophile' and charge you an eye for it. You can get vacuum sealed relays and relays with inert gas filling to improve corrosion resistance and sparking even further. Some models come in metal housings for better electro-magnetic compatibility. On top of that relays are easier to integrate into a PCB and make it easier to maintain the signal path short. Drawbacks? Yes, relays need a power supply. And you need a switch to control the relays, albeit any cheapo will do.
__________________
If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: alberta canada
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pacificblue i do agree with you... yes due to the larger on resistance of the mux's doing voltage switching can degrade the signal, but have you ever tried using the mux's to switch current instead? by switching the current you wont get the voltage drop across the switch... anyways it sounds better to me... but like i said just my $0.02, the audiophile business is full of controversy
Dave P.S. I also don't like the clicking
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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