I see many here like to tinker with higher power ICs. I've built a few higher power chip amps, but I like to make a few 9 volt supply, single ended amps. I know there are many ICs out there. What is your favorite? Here are some I used with comments.
LM386. My first amp. Weak drive makes only a few hundres milliwatts of output. Can't handle 4 Ohms at 9 volts.
TDA2824 16DIP Around 2 watts per channel, soft clipping low idle current. I use this in a small system in my work area. Sounds pretty clean.
TDA7231A 8DIP mono version of the 2824. Seems to be rugged and forgiving of poor layout.
TDA2822M Stereo amp on in a 8pin DIP! Seems to be same as the TDA2824, but derated due to the lower dissipation.
TDA7268 2x2 watt stereo and TDA7267 8 pin DIP mono version. I'd like to try these. Very low part count. Can anyone comment on them?
Any other low power chip amps you like?
LM386. My first amp. Weak drive makes only a few hundres milliwatts of output. Can't handle 4 Ohms at 9 volts.
TDA2824 16DIP Around 2 watts per channel, soft clipping low idle current. I use this in a small system in my work area. Sounds pretty clean.
TDA7231A 8DIP mono version of the 2824. Seems to be rugged and forgiving of poor layout.
TDA2822M Stereo amp on in a 8pin DIP! Seems to be same as the TDA2824, but derated due to the lower dissipation.
TDA7268 2x2 watt stereo and TDA7267 8 pin DIP mono version. I'd like to try these. Very low part count. Can anyone comment on them?
Any other low power chip amps you like?
This is not a chipamp. But it's a one-watter Class A single ended amp called the Tipton.
http://www.audioxpress.com/magsdirx/ax/addenda/media/tipton2730.pdf
http://www.audioxpress.com/magsdirx/ax/addenda/media/tipton2730.pdf
vizion said:
Now that is quite the effort for 1 watt of power
I guess it is just me, but I never could tell the difference from a 79 cent chip amp to a hifi amp. Of course the power amp could play much louder, but when not clipping, the chip amp sounded fine to me. Speakers, OTOH, made a big difference to me in the sound quality.
The TDA1517 is a nice basic amp, but it's mute circuit needs 8.5 volts or the amp won't run even though it needs only 6 volts (mute function, Grrr!). I have some of those IC already.
What I was after was something that runs on lower voltage (9 volt). The 1517 would cut out as soon as the batteries run down a little or the high output drags down the Vs some.
I ordered some TDA7267 and 7268 chips to see how these will work.
What I was after was something that runs on lower voltage (9 volt). The 1517 would cut out as soon as the batteries run down a little or the high output drags down the Vs some.
I ordered some TDA7267 and 7268 chips to see how these will work.
(datasheet can be found on web archives)
OK, just to get started I downloaded this hint from Elektor78:
TBA820M - 8 pin package wide supply Datasheet
We studied the datasheet, and did not find the level of distortion using 12V to obtain 2 watts. We expect it to be as low as possible. Can any of you guys (and gals) help us out?
Aharon
TBA820M - 8 pin package wide supply Datasheet
We studied the datasheet, and did not find the level of distortion using 12V to obtain 2 watts. We expect it to be as low as possible. Can any of you guys (and gals) help us out?
Aharon
It will be difficult to get 5 W from 9 V. With a BTL amplifier you may get near to that with a 4 Ohm load, e. g. using the TDA7266 which also has good THD specs.
In one of the older datashets for the TBA820 there is a graph on distortion. According to that you get 2 W into 8 Ohm from 12 V with 10 % THD. 9 V and 4 Ohm lead to 1,6 W at 10 % THD. 9 V and 8 Ohm give 1,2 W at 10% THD.
In one of the older datashets for the TBA820 there is a graph on distortion. According to that you get 2 W into 8 Ohm from 12 V with 10 % THD. 9 V and 4 Ohm lead to 1,6 W at 10 % THD. 9 V and 8 Ohm give 1,2 W at 10% THD.
How often do I come back to my thought "why did we link Audio volume (SPL) to Watts?"
Using Watts rather than Volts seems to have complicated the SPL of Audio for those that can't/won't do the sums.
Watts is for those that never grow up. It suits car audio for bragging rights only.
Thinkers, builders and designers of Audio do not need Watts for SPL.
Volts and Amperes are good enough.
Using Watts rather than Volts seems to have complicated the SPL of Audio for those that can't/won't do the sums.
Watts is for those that never grow up. It suits car audio for bragging rights only.
Thinkers, builders and designers of Audio do not need Watts for SPL.
Volts and Amperes are good enough.
The reason is probably convenience. With Watts being Volts times Amperes, you express two things in one number.
Bragging rights about Watts are a strong factor in audio in general, not only in car audio. I could spontaneously name several afflicted members from the Solid State and Class D sections. And of course all the newbies whose first (and often last) thread usually comes with a title like "Need help to build xxxx W amp."
When it comes to cars there is indeed a need for extreme amounts of power. It comes from very big woofers having to work in very small enclosures. The result is extremely low efficiency hence high power demand. It also comes from having to drown out the car's driving noises which leads to considerably higher SPL compared to home audio.
Bragging rights about Watts are a strong factor in audio in general, not only in car audio. I could spontaneously name several afflicted members from the Solid State and Class D sections. And of course all the newbies whose first (and often last) thread usually comes with a title like "Need help to build xxxx W amp."
When it comes to cars there is indeed a need for extreme amounts of power. It comes from very big woofers having to work in very small enclosures. The result is extremely low efficiency hence high power demand. It also comes from having to drown out the car's driving noises which leads to considerably higher SPL compared to home audio.
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