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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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I constructed a LM1875 kit from chipamp.com. I assembled and tested it per the instuctions listed here on DIYAudio.com.
Finally made a LM1875 amp The PSU tests OK, correct DC voltage. I measure NO DC-offset at the amp output. When connected to my system it produces only a loud hum and no music. I've checked everything I can think of, but find no discrpencies between the as-assembled amp and the instructions. Anyone have any suggestions? Further testing I should do? Thanks, |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Pictures?
__________________
If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: upper austria/near linz
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hello.
no dc-offset? there are mostly a few milivolts of offset......... perhaps check the input for a missing or wrong ground connection,cable failure or so........... greetings............. |
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#4 |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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If you take your DVM and measure the resistance between signal ground, speaker ground and power ground, are they connected?
Brian, don't you have schematics over your design? Doesn't your cad program support that?
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Foxton, CAMBS..
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Please give info on, C1, C2 and R6 values used.
Remember these locations must be bridged (jumped), if you choose to omit them.. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Thanks for the suggestions... My R6 jumper was the problem. Now everything sounds AWESOME. It runs hot, but I'll get that fixed.
Thanks for the help. -Patrick- |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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may i ask how much power can you get from this amp ?
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Southern Germany
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Just google for LM1875 and there you are...
20W into 4 ohms
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi,try to use +/-28V if your heatsink is big enough.... you will hear a differnce sound compare with your +/- 25V system.
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