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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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well this speaker is a 12inch Full-Range with 120watt RMS power from B&C speakers and its kind of expensive and i wouldn't like to waste its poewr because it has the worst Independence ever 16ohms what i am asking for is a way to power this baby as its really hard to find that power on 16ohms any ideas and i really prefer Chip Amplifiers so if you know a chip that could handle it please help
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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The usual suspects will give you a maximum of around 30 W into 16 Ohm, 60 W in bridged mode.
But there is probably a misconception. If a speaker is given with 120 W rms that does not mean you are wasting its power, if you feed it with less. It only means you don't push it to its electrical limits. You may however reach its mechanical limits with much less power than that, and you don't want that either. B&C are professional speakers that usually have high efficiency. That means they need little power to achieve high sound pressure levels, which in turn is good for chipamps. Is it an older model? They don't seem to have a full-range driver in their actual product range.
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If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Zemun
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Hi thelordash,
this would be a great chipamp for your speaker: Note: AD797 can be replaced with any buffer capable of driving 1K load; OPA1632 can be replaced with THS4131 (pin-to-pin compatible). |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#5 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Given how efficeint the B&C should be, 30w should be capable of driving you out of the room. As well, chipamps biggest limitation is current capability. Into 16 ohms it is much less of an issue. The best sounding chip amp i have heard had/has rails right at or a bit over the max and was driving 16 ohm speakers. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi,
the worst that can happen is that you have to go discrete. Build a 60W into 8r0 chipamp and listen to the outcome. If you like it, then invest in the PSU and chip and dual drive needed to then extend your amp to 120W into 16r by bridging it.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
BTW THANKS "juma" i hope i didn't bother you bec i think this took quite some time |
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#8 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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i am really sorry but i don't understand what you mean by
" Poly Caps"?? |
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#10 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Instead of using electrolytic caps in the power supply, you could use poly caps. In a typical standard gaine clone implementation there is only 1000 uF per rail on each channel which makes it within distance of using poly caps. It would be expensive and take up some room (6x330 uF caps/channel would cost on the order of $450 for a stereo amp), so a combination of poly caps & electrolytics could be tried. It makes a HUGE difference if done in a tube amp where it is much more affordable.
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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