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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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I put together a power supply for my dual LM3886 amp. It's an antek 22VAC, 400VA toroid with dual secondaries. I posted the power supply schematic (i made my own design off a few to incorporate a preamp in front of the power amp) and got the ok so I constructed it.
Now I made a PCB for it, etched it and got everything wired up in the case (not yet connected to the amplifier) for a preliminary test. Turned it on and I see a flash on the circuit board. Measure the voltages and from one secondary powering the positive rail I'm getting a good supply of +30V and +15V for my pre. The other secondary has some blown traces around the diodes. I relay the traces with some wire, fire it back up, and now traces blow on the other secondary! I know the traces need to be bigger to accommodate the high current, but they're by no means small and they are getting burnt up. Should I redesign the PCB with bigger traces or can I just keep turning it on and replacing traces as they blow? Is it not necessarily the current, but the huge rush from the massive transformer? What should I do to cure my issues? Thanks all, Mike |
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#2 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
2. Use a light bulb tester. 3. Find the fault. I. e. check for shorts, for wrongly mounted components, etc. 4. Correct it.
__________________
If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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make sure you got the diodes correct. that could be confusing sometimes.
unless your using two bridges
__________________
"Nothing happens for a reason. There are just reasons why things happen." Quote me on that. http://stores.ebay.com/AudioGrade?_rdc=1 |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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post a good clear, reasonably high res pic of the PCB.
both sides please
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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thanks for the quick replies guys,
I'll post some pics of the PCB later today if I find some free time at work. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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Here it is, single sided. Schematic:
And layout: I just realized in the schematic the secondary numbers don't match with the board. Arbitrary anyways.... I separated the grounds for the positive and negative rails and have them connected by a trace at the end of the board where the off-board connections will be made. This way I can cut the trace and isolate the grounds if they need to be connected at the star ground for hum reasons. I originally intended to use MUR860 singles, but ordered the dual package on accident. So I redid the board to accommodate the dual packages. This is the board I have constructed, I'll go over it when I get home to make sure there are no solder bridges or flux bridges or anything like that. I'll find the problem I'm sure... |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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where is the track burning?
what about photos of the actual board? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Your drawings don't indicate it, but you are using zener diodes for D9 and D10, right?
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Once you have the dual diodes, why don't you connect both negative pins of them?
__________________
If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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I"m confused.
the PSU schem at chipamp.com and the CarlosFM show the diode bridges connected differently. I followed the wiring for the chipamp.com version. Why are these two different? Yes D9 and D10 are 15V zeners. And the traces have been blowing around the diodes. I'll take a picture tonight. |
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