LOGITECH Z-5300 Without Remote
 

Hello People


I want to know if i can use my Logitech Z-5300 Speakers without SoundTouch remote

i want to isolate the remote so i can use my decoder only beside using the both remotes.

in other words if one lost his remote how will he be able to use the speakers because the power button of speakers is located on the wired remote and if remote is not connected on sub we cant turn it on

i have seen Z-5500 hacked thread so may be someone can help

thanks

Has anyone made any progress in getting the z-5300 working without the pod?

I have been able to turn on the amp by shorting pin 6 & 7 on the "vga" connector but I get no sound. If I remove the short, the amp powers off and the heatsinks go back to being cold.

It appears that I was unsuccessful in getting any sound by jumpering various combinations on the "vga" connector. So I finally unscrewed the amp assembly from main sub box and found the low level signal section of the board, located at the center region, has a ton of parts and complicated.

I decided to try a different route. There are 3 sets of wires entering/exiting the sub box and were easily identifiable by where the wires connect to on the circuit board. The three sets consist of 120volt mains to the transformer, 3 leads from secondary side of the transformer, and the speaker wires to the sub driver. Close by is the low level signal wire to the amp chip. I desoldered the wire from the low level signal section. I plugged the power cord in with "vga" connector pin 6 & 7 shorted and touched the bare wire on the signal wire to the amp with my finger. I get the familiar hum from the sub driver. So far so good. At least I can turn the z-5300 into a subwoofer.

Next I will try to add a connector to the end of the signal wire to the sub amp.

An update. I have connected the sub amp signal wire to the backside of the 3.5 mm jack (orange color) marked center/sub thus bypassing the pre-amp section . Wow! It works. Too LOUD!!! Volume control will be required to attenuate the output.

As for the other channels, I have mapped out which amp chip corresponds to which channel. Next is to pull the signal wires and connect to the backside of the 3.5 mm jacks - same as what I did for the sub amp.

Success! Not quite. I found out the front left amp does not work.

I noticed the functioning front right is not as loud as rears. So I connected the rear amp audio inputs to the backside of the 3.5mm front audio input jack. I will have to re-label the output so in the future I do not get confused.

For the audio input to the amps, I removed the shielded cable and added a header. I used an unshielded computer cdrom audio cable soldered to the backside of the 3.5 mm audio input jack and the other end plugged into the header.

Here is a photo of the wiring modification:
http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/...psb81da21d.jpg

The red/white/black twisted wires are soldered to the backside of the 3.5 mm input (approx center of the pcb) to the amp inputs (top left & lower right) for rear right & left.

An update. I have now wired the center channel amp input to the back of the 3.5mm jack.

I have noticed that there is much greater hiss and buzzing from the center channel than the other working speakers (front left is dead). This happens with the inputs shorted to ground at back of amp or connected to the computer (on & off makes no difference).

Has anyone else found a greater amount of hiss or buzzing from one speaker compared to the rest???

decent sounding amp chip
 

Another update. I discovered the amp chips are very decent sounding. I was selling my Camber 1.0ti speakers and I needed an amp to connect to demo. I used the z-5300 connected to my Blackberry - wow! (without the sub of course). I was expecting mediocre sound but was amazed with this setup. The only issue was the speaker wire connection had to be done with an RCA audio cable and an RCA jack soldered to wires to make the final connection to the speaker.